rcgods

The Bing carbs I have / had always float stuck and were absolute buggers! I have one left to get rid of and that will be swapped for a Mikuni

Beta Evo 200 is the perfect beginner bike. Plenty enough power for any rider, UK only though so you would struggle to get one. Go for a Beta Evo 250. I had a Sherco 290 as my first bike and it was evil. Even "tamed" by having a slow throttle, retarded ignition and altered gearing it was a horrid thing to ride. The Evos are so soft and nice to ride. We do get a slightly different spec in the UK with a heavier flywheel to cope with UK conditions. I believe you can add the weight to other models though.

I have fitted both the neoprene gaiters and the full length guards just to make sure nothing gets damaged

Depending on which model the tank is from you may have to modify the tank unit to clear the frame. The M80 and Series 1 M91 and M92 used the "early" frame style with reinforcing between the central post and the outer frame, the later series 2 M91 and M92 changed to have a more triangular frame by the footrests similar to your frame. However from M159 the central post, where the airbox mounts, was removed and the engine mount points moved to a mount in the swingarm. This could make mounting the early airbox tricky. Additionally there will be no mounting points for the tank unit on the frame. The slimline tanks mount using a stud on the frame near the headstock and mounting tabs on the rear sides of the frame.

Inlet clearance 0.10mm Exhaust clearance 0.15mm. Taken from https://betausa.com/content/SUPPORT_PDF's/2008-2018%20Evo%204%20stroke%20engine%20manual.pdf

Sounds like whoever worked on it didn't do the job properly. I have checked a manual for another bike with the same forks and they say 8-10 NM, threadlock recommended however none of my bikes have it. To stop this happening in future put longer bolts in and add a nyloc nut on the longer bolt.

Take the rear mudguard off. There are some connectors in front of the shock. Make sure all these are connected. I would suggest taking them apart and spraying with contact cleaner then re-assembling. The headlight wiring looks correct although someone seems to have cut the kill switch plug off (probably to fit a different kill switch). I would also check under that electrical tape that all the connections are sound as well (even though they should not affect the fan).

If you don't want to extend the float bowl you can change the drain bolt for an Jitsie one which is deeper than the standard one so will put more fuel into the bowl.

12x22x12 is the size but it is hard to find in the correct depth. SKF ones are 7mm the ones you need are 10.5mm. Splat has them for £20 and lists them with the Beta part number above.

I do this and it's brought up unfortunately too regularly at riders briefings.

It can be that they are, for want of a better word, afraid to give them the 5 or even the 1. If you watch some of the footage from this years SSDT there were definitely 5's for the top riders and yet the score card failed to show them. The observers at even a club trial can be swayed into not giving the correct scores as they have, at least once, had a rider if not questioning then down right abusing them for giving them a well deserved 5. I have been on the observer end of these "conversations" and after a row with the rider who threatened me, have come close to putting the board down and going home. I had to explain to one rider that going backwards even for 1 inch is a failure. He even said to me "I only went backwards a little bit"!

Adverts have to go in the classifieds IIRC

I'm sure my old man used to quote so many thou per inch of bore. Had a quick google and turned up similar on Wisecos website If anyone has a manual it might specify a certain value but the above would be a good starting point I would say.

Sent you a message on here and email via the classifieds. Thanks

Will do I have messaged him to start the ball rolling and get a price.

I know a guy that is selling a Frontera Mk11 370 which is as you know is a Pursang in different clothes. Don't know how much he is after for it but I could put you in touch.

If it the bolt on the kickstarter that separates it from the knuckle on the shaft then you have probably lost the spring and a ball bearing used as a detent stopping the lever flicking out. Seems like the kickstart is only available as a unit. Time to get a magnet out and scan the floor where you took the lever off.

I have switched from V-Power Unleaded to Esso Synergy Supreme+ as in my part of the UK it comes without any added ethanol. From Essos website:-

And the mounting bracket made of the softest metal known to man

The ones that I fitted to my bike were a sod to remove. I had to roll the glue off with my fingers and ended up with nasty blisters on each thumb. I tried all the usual stuff in my cupboard, brake cleaner, contact cleaner, solvent remover it was not coming off any other way.

Haynes Manual:- Pursang 250/370 (extended travel forks) - 210cc SAE 30 grade Clymer Manual:- Pursang 250/370 (extended travel forks) - 230cc SAE 30 grade Hughes Bultaco - Pursang 1977-1979 - 300CC SAE30 All per leg, so a bit of a difference in range.

I am running mudguard spacers (10mm) so have cable tied the brake hose to that.

Try putting the spindle through without the wheel to make sure the legs all line up correctly. Also you say the spindle threaded in from the "other way". Try putting it into the brake side fork leg and screwing it in there as it could have a damaged thread on that side where the spindle first contacts.

My club uses cut down electric fence posts made of plastic with a spike on the bottom. I have ridden other trials with flags on wires which are survey markers and others that use fully plastic pegs. I think the club with the full plastic pegs had a mould made up and have a batch made up as an when they need them.

Can you get Putoline in America? Coolant NF is the one they recommend for the Evo 4T. To quote them "Coolant NF is a ready-to-use, organic coolant. Anti-corrosion additives provide excellent protection for all metals found in engines, including aluminium and magnesium. The product provides frost protection down to -38°C."