rcgods

You would have to make sure you buy toughened phones or very rugged cases as the chance of them getting wet and damaged is fairly high.

Mine is just in excel Nothing special with the one I use. I do all the donkey work on a blank sheet that has the same layout as the main sheet. The only sum in the sheet is section 1+section 2+section 3 until all sections are added. It gets separated into classes and then filtered (using excel filters) on score and ties resolved (using highlight cells duplicate values). I then make enough spaces in each class for the amount of riders on the actual results sheet. Simply paste across. Then create a PDF of the file. Done. Mine does have some fancy bits like in the actual classes it shades every other line to make it easier to track across.

You might be better off taking it / sending it to a radiator specialist to be re-cored. Nothing special about them, they would sweat the tanks off the top and bottom and replace the core (assuming that is the damage.) They might even be able to repair. A quick google found this lot https://www.radiator-repairs.co.uk/radiator-repair/motorcycle-radiator-repair/ not a recommendation

I like the Jitsie ones.

Bultaco never stamped their frames that way. And its on the wrong side of the headstock. Should be on the throttle side and running like the JB in that photo.

The floats should not be horizontal. They should be parallel to the carb body when held at a certain angle Follow the instructions here

Not EM related but a Honda road bike I had in the rain would send a shock through the bars every time it fired. This was very annoying with soaked gloves and a 15 mile journey home! I certainly didn't drop off on the ride home!

Buy any length chain longer than 101, a half link and an extra split link. Cut the chain to length, use the split link to connect the half link and then use the other split link (comes with chain) to join the chain ends. You do need to buy the correct split link and half link (Same manufacturer and chain type) Chain splitters are around £15. I still use one that came with a bike my grandpa had in the 1920s!

The brake plate on the front does sit outside the hub. The one with the cable holder on the brake plate (middle picture) is the one for a parallel hub. Fitted up to Model 80 (and M85 Alpina) as far as I know. This is the style below. The actuating arm points to the rear of the machine and the cable guide is out of sight behind the fork leg. The one in the bike looks like the later conical style hub as the cable holder has moved to the torque arm. These were fitted from Model 91 onwards. This is a Model 91 Front wheel. Note the cable running to the front on the torque arm and the actuating arm pointing forwards. Only difference I can see between the one below and the one in your post is the extra bump out on the brake plate where the shoes pivot from. On the M91 its hidden inside the plate, your one is exposed.

Can you not have it re-cored (assuming that is the issue not the tanks). Should be able to get it reconditioned at a good radiator shop.

Mine are drilled as the following (working from photos hence the strange valve position of front wheel!) Front is basically opposite but jump to next big gap either side. Rear I run 2 rim locks. Front:- Valve - 2 O'clock Rim Lock - 7 O'clock Rear:- Valve - 6 O'clock Rim Lock 1 - 10 O'clock Rim Lock 2 - 2 O'clock

Someone I know has one and has said they are very sensitive on the fuel mixture. It has to be 30 ml of oil to 5 litres of Standard unleaded petrol (Rock Oil Strawberry Trial 2 scented synthetic pre-mix 2 stroke) *Taken from the Vertigo website*

Perhaps a test for the '22 Evo,

I run 520 on everything. That way only have to have split links, half links etc for 1 chain type. I also buy the chain in 10m rolls and make up my own lengths.

And if the marking was on the tyre a little effort with a sanding disc would remove the wording apparently if you have a strict tester. A tester I know will look past little things like that as long as the machine is safe!

From the MOT Manual section 5.2.3 https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-motorcycles/5-wheels-tyres-and-suspension Additionally, motocross tyres, tyres designated by their manufacturer as racing tyres and tyres marked ‘NHS’ or ‘NOT FOR HIGHWAY USE’ on the sidewall are also unsuitable, unless the tyre sidewall is marked with: an ‘E’ in a circle an ‘e’ in a rectangle JIS (Japanese industry standard) DOT (American standard)

2006 Owners Manual Cannot find one for the earlier bike Parts Manual for 2000 The kill switch needs to earth the coil. One wire connects to ground (frame) the other to the coil, there might be a set of wires already there to use up near the bars, this includes the earth and the coil wire.

There is an engine strip guide here:- https://betausa.com/content/SUPPORT_PDF's/2009-2015 Evo 2 stroke Engine.pdf The same website also has the same manuals for the later bikes as you don't say what year yours is

Are there holes in the flywheels? If there are I suppose this could be put into the holes to stop the crankshaft pinching too much when you press the halves together?

Yup the hot glue is the factory way. I removed the metal grills and replaced them with door fly mesh which I then super glued into the guard.

You could buy a timing light like the Accuspark SP8000. This has a rev counter function which works off a clamp off the spark plug lead. Also has a 2/4 Stroke selector switch so you dont have to do the maths!

Did you lube the beader up? I cover the beader in tyre soap and put extra in the well in which I put the beader in. Makes it slide out really nicely.

Some good info here.

Think the first Raga was 2005 and only in 300? Someone more knowledgeable should be able to confirm. The Raga racing might just be the decal kit that was available at the time / a Raga mudguard has been fitted.

I extend the mudguards with a thick rubber flap, its solid enough to keep in place but also bendy enough to allow a bit of flexibility in case of disaster!