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I have used the cooper rack on several cars carrying Ty250's and Betas, you are worrying too much, check all the nuts and bolts every now and then and relax.
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I thought Jotagas went bankrupt.
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I am really into Putoline nano on my Beta, I have messed about trying a few, this seems the best so far.
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I also reccomend Tricks in the Sticks, Jason is a brilliant teacher, i had a day there in March, the mud was unbelievably muddy, it had rained so much in the previous weeks, awesome fun though.
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This is run by the club i belong to, Bexleyheath and District MCC, once a month usually, the next one is this saturday, you will need an ACU licence for all riders though before you ride.
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I had this happen to my Beta 300, i had forgotten to turn off the fuel whilst in transport on the trailer, got home cleaned the bike started it up for a dry off and it revved it's nuts off! kill switch and plug lead off had no effect, my guess being it was igniting off the exhaust gases just leaving the cylinder as new gas came in due to the speed, it wasn't carbon glowing as it only had a few hours on it at that time, luckily no damage occured.
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If it runs fine with no untoward noises just keep riding it.
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I have a 300 Beta Evo SS, I went from the slow to fast tube, the difference isn't dramatic but I prefer the faster one, I think a lot of depends on your style and I prefer twisting the grip less.
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My guess would be that someone made a poor material choice and over a short amount of time fuel fumes caused the cap to swell and tighten in the threads.
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This kind of problem can be due as already said a blocked tank breather or something in the ignition breaking down under heat, what sort of spark do you have immediately after the breakdown?
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Whn it is on hot air should be felt to blow over the engine, hope that helps.
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No wonder our car making industry is very dead, I started in the trade in the early 80's and have had many of these "gems" pass through the workshops I have worked in, good days really, workshop life is so different now, tearing your hands to bits trying to get to a stupidly placed EGR valve etc...
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Yes, the reccomended oil also varies from country to country for the same machine, here in the UK I think Beta uk are all into Putoline, yet the handbook from the factory is into Liquid Moly products in a big way, I have seen the same in the car world when working for dealerships, one year it's Castrol and then someone else the next year.
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I intend to use OE seals when mine need doing, after all the originals are still fine after 16 months so any replacements should last just as well.
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I have had the horrible experience of dropping out the entire back end on a v12 E type to service the handbrake caliper! what were they thinking?
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They fitted calipers not specifically designed for the angle they mounted them at, that made the bleed nipple in the wrong place to purge the caliper of all the air bubbles easily.
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Fuel tank breather plugged? it could make a vacumm in the tank and shut the fuel flow down.
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Noises like that are usually the fuel cap breather "farting" as pressure is released from the tank. I had a Kawasaki road bike that was very vocal some time back after a ride.
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When it dies whip the plug out and see what sort of spark you have, also well worth checking the fuel tank breather, a blockage could make a vacumm in the tank that would stop the fuel flow into the carb, it would recover after a short while only to repeat when the vacumm built again.
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Go to Beta's web page and download the manual from their downloads section as a PDF file.
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They were considered expensive exotica in the early 90's, one of the local Honda dealers campaigned one at local trials, it was the only one I ever saw.
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Chances are it's the latch at fault and you will need a new one, worth checking for a broken wire across from the body to the door too, they can break where the door gets opened and closed a lot causing fatigue of the conductors.
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If the bike is running fine in all other respects and it has always behaved this way on a cold start only another 125 owner can give you a answer, I find my 300 Evo revs high initially after a choke start but then calms down to a fast idle, i generally shut the choke off after around 20 seconds or so, like your Sherco my Evo has no perceptible difference between soft and power on the mode switch, I suspect it is only a thing at high revs, being a novice i don't really use the top of the rev range.
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I put mains in my Techno a year or so back, had mains, seals and gaskets plus a small end, spent around 120 pounds on parts, also bought a cheap chinese puller to get the bearings off the crank for around ten pounds. Whole job took about 6 or 7 hours I suppose.
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An oil pump absorbs some of the engine power because it has a small resistance to being turned due to the pumping, their new pump must offer a little less resistance to being turned, this will of course save .00000000001 of a BHP and you will definitely notice the decrease in engine braking because of it turning easier. NOT!
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