misscrabstick

I have the EVO 300 SS, it's a bit softer than the standard evo motor and not a handful in my opinion, just loads of whatever gear u want pulling torque, I ride Novice level.

I found the front brake on my Beta evo excessively over powerful when I first got it, it was very hard to brake smoothly, maybe I got used to it or maybe it "ran in" it's allright now though, you could file a chamfer on the pad edges, it may help.

Call me old fashioned but does anyone really want or need fuel injection on a trials bike? it just seems so over complex and adds a whole load of reliability issues, for not much advantage.

I have had no problems myself, but that said I am a Novice level rider and it's not in my style to give the clutch a right big pasting up massive steps etc.

When I started out we ran our bikes on 20:1 or 25:1, oil technology has changed for the better massively, run it at the manufacturers specifications and you can't go wrong, remember the more oil you add the weaker the actual fuel mixture is as more oil = less fuel going into the combustion process.

As far as I know it's used by Beta UK and reccomended by them.

I had a job once where every month I would spend a week or two rebuilding axles and gearboxes for a car manufacturer that had been returned by their dealer network as faulty ( I worked at the importers) during those times I smelled of EP permanently despite many baths and showers!

I use nano trans now and will be sticking with it, I tried a few different gear oils in my 300 Evo and nano is by far the best so far, it really helps that clutch draggy issue when cold, i really don't have any now!

I would change it every 2 years, the corrosion inhibitor can "wear out" and lead to unwanted debris build up.

For all my bikes whatever their type (except aircooled!) I use blue antifreeze mixed at 50/50 with distilled water, the distilled water contains no minerals and this will help to minimise imurities clogging the small passageways found in bike cooling systems.

I have the one that comes in two halves and you use it as a kind of slide hammer, it works just fine, I have done a few road bike seals (Vmax, XT660) and a Beta Techno and it's done well each time. I would reccomend masking taping the stanchions after you have slid the seal down to protect the surfaces as you hammer the driver up and down.

I ride probably once or twice a month, each time would be a trial of sorts, maybe club or a combine, the next day I hurt everywhere! it's been like that for 2 years!

So when it's cold and running fine remove the plug and look at the spark, observe how fat it is and the colour, when it's messing about remove the plug and repeat the test compare the spark with the previous result, although rough it should give you a yes no on it being ignition related, I would fit a new plug anyway. Also check the fuel tank breather is clear, if blocked you could be getting a vacumm in the tank which will mess with fuel delivery to the carb, this has happened to me, it will stop the bike annoyingly after 10 to 20 minutes, after a rest the bike goes again as air manages to slowly bleed into the tank allowing it to flow again.

As a minimum you need the left side cover off to investigate the gears in there, I have a feeling that's a drive dog and tooth from one of the gears and that is a case split, (nothing to be scared of).

For any trials gearbox I would use Putoline nano trans, really helps with clutch drags.

Yes, I got some alloy spacers to raise mine up about 10mm, i also swopped to a bosi bracket and fender kit.

Yes, I do mine every six months, using Belray waterproof grease.

Only issue I had in the first 2 months of it's life was the rear exhaust brackets coming loose, the lower one killed it's thread in the frame in one trial, I tapped it to 6mm, used a bigger bolt and it's been fine since.

I run 80:1 premix, gear oil I have been through several types, one absolute winner came out, with minimal cold drag and I can even get neutral a lot of the time! Putoline Nano trans GP.

I heard the plastic caps swell and deform after a while due to petrol fumes! my 2017 Evo has a alloy cap as standard.

As said no chain or lock can resist Mr Cordless grinder with a metal cutting disc in it, I had to rescue my son recently after his disclock failed to unlock from the rear disc, I was through it in a minute and that was being slow and careful to not damage anything, I would concentrate on garage security, multiple locks inside (if you have access from the house) plus locks on the outside, also put up cameras (even dummies work well) that flash a led to attract attention plus an alarm box or even a real alarm. At the end of the day though if they want it bad enough all you can ever do is slow them down.

If it ran fine with the current needle, jets etc you can discount those as being the issue, float condition/ height all ok? my money is on a weak spark type issue.

I own a road bike, a Yamaha MT09, it has a mode switch on the right switchh cluster, A B and std, it is also fly by wire in that the throttle is connected via bowden cable to a throttle potentiometer switch, the actual throttle butterfly is opened by an electric motor, switching modes alters the relationship between twist grip and thhrottle butterfly, in B mode the throttle only ever opens around 75% flat out and the that 75% is spread over the entire travel proportionately, in A mode though things are rather more mental with full throttle happening at around 75% of grip travel!

Is it a complication you'd be wanting on a machine that you might fully throw into a stream, subject to massive sudden impact shocks and all that? simple is better.

I can't tell you about the 4t but I opened up the loom on my 2017 300 Evo 2t and removed all non essential wiring, shortened the loom and relocated the regulator box to a home made alloy plate under the seat, the mode switch I disconnected but the plug now lives in the plastic cowling near the filler cap.