misscrabstick

make sure the overflow hoses are clear, double check the float height, I assume you tried a new float, needle and seating.

Join Bexleyheath and district mcc, most of the venues we use are easy to get to from the M20, M2 or M25.

Generating coil for the ignition sounds like it needs a rewind/ replacement.

Are you using the correct screw in puller? legged pullers do not apply pressure in the right place.

Too many volts are frying it to death, get a voltmeter connect between two wires that feed fan, check with engine running, anymore than 13.5 maybe 14 volts will kill the fan, my money is on a faulty voltage regulator unit, which is a very Honda thing to happen.

Rattle = fix No rattle = carry on as normal

4 things, dirty tank dumping particles that jam the needle valve open and make it leak, worn float needle and/or seating (common), damaged float (leaking fuel into itself and making it heavy) and finally, incorrectly set float height.

Pre 73 a bulb horn is good, after 73 single tone electric horn.

Helicoil again or timesert.

For a daylight mot and indeed daylight use on the road in the UK you do not need a brake light, you do require a horn and a speedo (speedo not tested at mot though).

The grey gunk sounds like water has got in to the box, perhaps from an external source (drowned in water section) or from a water pump leak, there shouldn't be any pressure in the box or clutch case when the engines running, can you run it with the filler plug out and feel anything pulsing? like you say it does sound like a possible crank seal issue.

You need a thread file to straighten it out, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metric-Thread-Restoration-Repair-File-Cleans-Damaged-Threads-0-75-3mm-Pitch/142073213994?epid=18012049081&hash=item211439342a:g:ilwAAOSw~T9adbMu

Did you observe coolant dribbling from the bolt/thread/stud at all? if not then all is well.

A Techno whilst still a decent machine is a lot heavier than an evo, also some spares are pretty scarce.

Pinches around the con rod to stop it flapping about when the barrels off?

yes, a low float height could well cause a stall downhill, suggest set carb to original specs including checking all jet sizes, and needle height, also replace the float valve.

Sounds possibly like the sparks system breaking down with heat, it is like 40 odd years old, suggest confirm bared ht lead (no cap just end of lead after removing cap) to engine metal test when it's broken, see if it can make 5mm gap when being kicked, if not suggest get electronic ignition kit.

2 screws, one raises and lowers the engine idle speed by lifting lowering the carb slide, other is the mixture/air screw which alters fuel and air mix from idle to around 1/8th throttle.

Float height.

I split a Techno engine a while back, it's not so different to the Evo, all I used was the flywheel puller and a chinese bearing puller kit to swop out the mains for new.

Sometime, somewhere, I heard there was an issue with excessive compression ratio (pinking/detonation) and it was cured with a head insert, strongly suggest you contact Scorpa

Side stands are too puny for starting from, I bent and snapped the bracket on my Beta 300 doing this, it's loosened up a lot since and I have refined my technique for starting quite successfully, being on the left doesn't help, I cut my teeth on right side kickstarts in the 80's.

Does this happen only when it's started from cold, or is it all the time?

The speeding up with revs is pretty usual, the engine makes a bit more volts above tickover, consequently the fan runs a little faster.

I have a Beta but that to me is pretty normal behaviour in hot weather, I checked mine with a temp probe once, the fan comes on at a pretty low temperature.