section swept

Oni nou, are you after the team managers job?

Only the Americans thought of including ‘speedway sliding’ into their race circuit programme to make it more hairy to watch! Remember the Trans American ( think thats near ) racers when they came over to race. Jumping the kerbs and sliding the corners....bit like Rossi dangling his leg in the way of anyone trying to pass him, just as difficult to pass a bike on its side still being accelerated into the corner!?

Much better than mud too, improves the balance without the dirty stuff being thrown about.

Dwell angle is important, the length of time measured in degrees that the contacts are closed, allows the coil to charge up. Too small a gap and the spark will be weak....thats why the manufacturer states a contact breaker gap. TY 250 A ignition timing 3.1 mm btdc with contact breaker gap of 0.012/0.016” (inch) or thou. Quite right about gap after opening as timing is adjusted by points gap, but by design the dwell angle should be within spec. The genuine article contacts last for ages without too much wear, unless you ignore lubticating the heel of the contacts. Cleaning the contact faces too much or crappy copies can throw the timing out somewhat. Always best to use a strobe timing light to check timing marks align on the flywheel and crankcase.?

Weight and usage, some of these footrest location mountings do look a little lightweight in construction....just my observation. Potentially with bigger footrests fitted (standard manufacturers pegs replaced) there will be a bit more leverage created at the mounting point and subsequent cracking.?

Looks as though you are going to end up with the correct solution by a process of elimination and careful measuring??

Guntering.....does this involve the use of an effing great⚒ lump hammer by any chance? ?

Be wary of imported bikes as some are in need of loads of work, some have been advertised for ages. Thats not to say all are to be avoided some import dealers sell good examples, just check each bike out thoroughly although £1500 will not buy much in this particular area of advertised bikes. If you can try to find a bike thats been used for trials work and not thrashed to death around a field. Good maintenance and ducumented history are good as are invoices for parts fitted or replaced. Ask if there is any movement in the advetised price before travelling to view, please dont buy sight unseen as this can be a shock when the bike arrives by courier, unless of course you are satisfied that you have a bargain. Private sellers can be right rogues or traders masquerading as Joe Public. When phoning don't mention the specific bike in the advert that's attracted you, ask about ‘the bike’ if theybsay which one then you are most probably talking to a trader. There are this sites TC classifieds that may well have what you are looking for.....good prospecting ??

Apply front brake, fuel on and throttle twisted about half way, tickle card if fitted with one, push bike forward against front brake a few times causing front forks to depress....this action should cause a little fuel to enter crankcases....feel engine onto TDC and give kickstart a positive, no messing kick...engine should start....maybe do this twice but stsrting should be much quicker. As everything you have checked is working and the bike starts easily when hot, it is just method, but the process I have described normally works fine?

Dont run the float bowl breather up above the carb as this will cause flooding. Make sure that pipe gets routed down to place where it cant get plugged with mud etc. Clear tubing is better as you can see whats going on. The other breather/vent tube can be routed up onto the frame out of harms way, but put a bend on the end so the the tube end is facing downwards, this should stop water getting in if wading the bike through streams etc. ?

The Twinshock Shop (bikes) has an Ossa very much like your bike that is in bits. There could be some useful pointers in the pictures as to what your Ossa should resemble. Your carb looks to be an Amal 600 series and parts for that are easily obtainable, or you can buy a new item from Amal as the company still trade on-line. Thats for originality but you may want to change to a more modern alternative. Before spending your money have a look at the many suppliers of parts and accessories on line to give you an idea of the budget needed for your rebuild. When correctly set up the Ossa MAR handles very well, with further small mods such as footrest location and type and a bit of suspension magic they will perform very well in most types of going.??

Some works bikes tried double sprockets on the rear to enable higher road speeds between sections, mainly for ISDT and time keeping. But this Honda by the looks of it has no way of tensioning the chain when its slipped to thesmaller sprocket. There is of course the issue of alignment between chain and gearbox sprocket, unless this was able to slide across on the output shaft to compensate. Some pictures of the gearbox side would help. As this bike has a helmet lock fitted on the top rear frame loop it looks as though this is an Aussie spec. machine and the taller gearing option is there for distance travelling. Would really like to see the drive side of the bike. There was on some bikes a pull out twist and lock device which altered or engaged another gearbox drive sprocket, but I doubt that this Honda has that.

Hope you have success?

Check the reach (thread length) of the new plug. If too long the piston may collide with it! Have you compared what the manufacturer states should be fitted with what came out?

In the absence of a reply from someone with the manufacturers torque settings for your cylinder head, try this but at your own risk. Presumably as you state, you want to just replace the washers under each cylinder head bolt. My thoughts are that you should remove the head and inspect the cyliner head sealing area and the cylinder block, you are looking for small areas of corrosion and tell tale signs of combustion gas pressure leakage. There will possibly be a head gasket or ‘O’ ring gasket made from either a composite material or copper, this will need to be replaced. It is doubtful that the head bolt washers need replacing, but if you want to it can only be for the better. Clean everthing thoroughly and you will need to check for distortion, I suggest you look on Goggle for images of this procedure, you will need a good straight edge and feelerblades for this check also. When you undo the bolts, slacken them a little at a time, eg a quarter of a turn each. Looking down on the cylinder head bolts imagine a clock face, choose one of the bolts as 12 o’clock and slacken that one a quarter turn, next 6 O’clock and so on until all the bolts are slakened a quarter of a turn, now repeat the process....this is to reduce the chances of causing distortion. Do this with the engine cold. When you have decided upon the repair needed, refit the head with the new parts and finger tighten the cylinder head bolts only ....about as tight as you would screw on the top of a sauce bottle. Using a correct torque wrench set to 5 ftlbs (6.7nm)tighten each bolt using the same process for undoing. Thats stage one, now set the torque wrench to 10ftlbs (13.5nm) repeat the tightening process, now set the torque wrench to 15ftlbs (20.7nm) repeat. So now you have tightened the head down to what I beleive will be correct for your engine, but I repeat this is purely at your own risk, I accept no responsibility should you break something or the figures are incorrect. There will most likely be someone that will add useful information or actually know the manufacturers specified settings. There maybe someone with the experience where they will not use a torque wrench but resort to ‘feel’ tightening, which is fine if done correctly. Hope this helps you, your next job will be to re-charge the cooling system. This should be done with distilled water and a good quality anti freeze, you must use anti freeze as this raises the boiling point of water and helps prevent overheating. Run engine to bleed out air, a good way is to raise the front of the bike up at least 3 feet so that the filler is at the highest point and the air should find its way to the top and escape. ??

I bought a C15T original in boxes. Took it home and put the whole lot in my shed. A few weeks later a police officer knocked on my front door (my mum and dads flat actually...I was still attending school so lived at home). He announced that he was chasing down stolen motorcycles...this is when the Police had the time and the personnel to committ resources to investigate....rather than just issue a crime number! He had been told by the previous seller of the C15T my address and could he have a look at the bike. I told him it was in pieces, in my shed. He wanted to see the frame and engine numbers only, having written down the numbers he told me it was very likely to be a stolen machine and to keep the bike as it was and he would contact me after checking back at the police station. A few days later in the evening the police officer returned, informing me that the bike I had was not a stolen machine as the number of the stolen bike was one number out....I didn’t question him about it....schoolboys do not question police, I was just releived I hadn’t lost my £15 that I paid for the bike. I sold the bike that weekend to a mechanic for £25....if only I had that bike now☹️ That was the police working and not the DVLA or whatever it was called back in the 60’s. The old buff logbooks were certainly a more useful document than the V5 sheet we get now.

More gas pressure means much smaller gas bubbles and thus less noise as the airated damper fluid passes through the control valve(s).

The crankcase castings were an issue as with the 9E onwards, in terms of their aesthetic finish this tended to shroud the main bearing housings and created excess heat that could not effectively be passed to the surrounding air. Many had the excess aluminium cut away to expose the main bearing housing to the air, as with the 37A type. Hope that makes sense.

Remove the front wheel, refit the spindle and measure the distance along the spindle from the inner edge of one fork to the other. Now measure the width of your hub. You will need to measure the depth of the hub bearings (how far in the hub bearing is in the hub on both sides). Now fit the wheel back in without any spacers or brake plate. Centre the wheel in the forks by sliding the wheel on the spindle. Measure the gap on each side. Now remove the wheel and refit the brake plate, refit wheel and brske plate to forks. Centre the wheel, this will tell you if you need an external spacer between the fork and the brake plate outer. The important thing is to not pull the forks in when the wheel and spacers are installed otherwise you may crack a fork leg and most certainly cause the forks to run tight or even lock up. you will probably need a spacer in the hub between the brake plate and hub bearing, on the other side just one spacer. Once you have the wheel centred you can then offer up the brake anchor arm and decidecif it needs a bend or not.

In Motion state in their advert that the Betors dont have enough movement for serious competition, they are mainly for show. Yes Betor do make other, better units but the cost is much more.

This is the stuff of ‘legends’....its enough to make you want to be an Ossa owner.

There are some Betors that are not suitable for trials competition use as their effective range is minimal. In Motion sell Betors but state they are for show rather than comp use.

Keep him off anything with a bigger capacity engine....he’ll be seven foot before long otherwise....must be something in the water!!?

Jobs worth......ensuring the position remains viable and not ending up as....sorry but you’re redundant.

Konrad you are a star?