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YOu do know that in the picture the choke is on, lever down is off. I wanted to make sure the vent lines were good.
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Take a picture of the bike, with focus around the carb. And post it here. Have you tried removing the gas cap when it does not start?
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Yeah, they did have a 2 page color brochure. LOL
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There was not much info even when the bikes were new, except from your dealer. No real owners manual or service msmual. About 450-500cc of oil. 80 to 1 premix. I think back then, they took a b8es plug.
Beta is not going to post anything on the net that did not exist on paper. They just had the parts book. Find a dealer.
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That`s a great price, and braces have come a long way! I paid $3000.00 for my pair of CTI`s in 1995. Which was a lot out of pocket back then. But being I still use them every,time I ride they have out lasted a dozen new bikes and as many pair of boots. I have resorted to buying old braces on Ebay for spare parts. I feel totally naked without them when riding. Well worth buying a pair, to keep you riding for many years to come.
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The TRS starts way easier than a 4rt. Now they do have more initial resistance. I am dreading this part of my new 301.
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https://advrider.com/f/threads/keihin-death-barble.1285977/
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That does not sound good. Good luck on the leak.
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Make a stop inside the slide. Let it only go half throttle.
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The Hell Team in Australia. He should be about. Seems like he was the last one to have stock.
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You need to get rid of the wiring harness for the lights and switches. Head lights, brake lights and switches all need to to be removed and trashed.
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If you are a heavier rider you need to go up at least 2 steps in the rear spring. See your dealer . You can leave the front spring alone until about the 240 lb and up.
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Same thing different color. I remember changing as many plug caps as coils through the years.
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I thought it was 2017 when the new clutch came out that Sherco went to mineral oil?
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You do know you need a new shift drum, too. Very common back then.
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You going road racing with that sprocket?
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It is very common, every Gasser I ever rode was the same way. But yes warming up to operating temp and then a good cleaning out is required.
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It can happen easily, but the OP has not been on Trials Central in 7 years. I hope your not expecting a reply!
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Myself, a dab of silicone and drive a self tapping screw.
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You are replying to a 8 year old thread?????
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The sticking ball can be hard to identify. By the time you change the plug, the ball could have released and you instantly think the plug fixed it. Get rid of the ball and that can no longer add to any problems. Besides it`s a free fix. Just pull out the inside rubber out and remove the ball. Some removal of plastic might be needed. Good luck.
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http://shercousa.com/docs.html
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Back in 2018 my son went through 2 plugs on the first loop. It was a 20 mile loop. As soon as we removed the ball out of the check valve on the gas cap, he never has changed the plug again.
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