lineaway

Surprisingly, that assembly is very durable. I have been riding trials for 50 years now and that is better than any metal one we ever used. So throw a spare throttle assembly in your kit as they are cheap. The only thing that ever breaks alot is that little cap on top. Ps do not overtighten the bolts.

Leave the forks on the bike and use a tie down to put pressure on the spring and remove the bolt. Having an air gun or electric makes it much easier.

Something is wrong how the sprocket is mounted to do that damage. That looks like a case problem. Not just the seal. By the way that seal sits behind a blind bearing, not an easy job.

Yeah, the engine oil is cheap. My son just paid 70 dollars for a bottle of Elf in the states. That is why I switched to Nills.

I waited to the 6 month mark to change out the Elf oil. I went to the Nills trial clutch oil. The Elf came out looking terrible. I sure regret waiting too long. On my second change with Nills. Starting to look clean again. My employer changes his oil yearly. Seems his bikes could last longer if he maintained them more often. 2 17's, 4 16's and the other 6 05's are plumb worn out. I have stayed with very clean motor oil. Changed every month or two depending on use.

Use longer bolts in the rear and I cut the rubber gasket to easily remove the cover.

Went from a trrs rr 300 to a 2021 Montesa 301. Has to be right around 15 Lbs. Huge difference between bikes as I load without a ramp quite often. And when you hop it is quite noticeable. That said, I got rod of the TRS as it does not hold a line. The Montesa is very PLANTED in comparison.

The magnet kill switches are junk. You can just replace it with a 2 wire kill button. I run a atv tether type switch in tadem with a Yamaha style kill button. Your starting issues are still tied to a low idle , I bet. Go to a new plug and up your idle.

Yeah, my ftont end slid 3 times during the first loop of a trials. I went back to my truck, opened a cold one. Wiped down my fenders and rims, installed a sign. 24 hours later I never had to worry about the front end again.

I would bleed the radiator and bypass the thermistat and see if the problems persists. You have removed all the lights and wires for them?

No I was responding ti the o.p. What a rider does between sections his usually his own personal problem.

T he starting point would be the idle needs to be set at 1800 rpm. It will not be happy at any lower setting. AND any 4 stroke will back fire if you rev it in nuetral and hit the rev limiter.

Yeah, newer .the better for sure. `14 the oldest. `09 was the worst.

For starters the Evo turns! Have you never ridden one? The brakes on the newer models are better than the revs ever were.The power is soft on the bottom, but there is nothing you can't get up. The rear suspension works very well. I enjoy how the Beta still carries more fuel than the other brands the 250 motor gets good mpg. I have been a Beta rider most of my trials life, the evo felt great to me the moment I got on it. And I can still remember my first event on my brand new 2000 rev 3. I felt the same way, it rode like my techno but everything worked better! GOOD Luck in your search.

Funny on all the opinions. 2 years ago sold my 2016 Beta 250 factory. Bought a TRS 300RR. Never did get along with it. Too quick of power and the handling was too quick too. Might be just right if you only rode like Bou. Bought a 301 Montesa just cuz it was the 75th anniversary edition. Sentimental buy as I started out on a 1971 cota 247. My neighbor still has my Beta. My financial advisor tells me I should have kept my '16 Beta. Buy a newer 250 Beta, it is way better than the rev 3 ever was. And I went through seven of those.

And some people buy a bike and dont know what premix is. I would ask if he had a reciept for the work. The overall condition usually shows if its been beat. . Skid plate, swingarm and rims usually tell the real story of abuse or not.

Everyone with different opinion. The easiest way to bleed a system thst is being stubborn is to remove the whole thing assembled and just hang it with the caliper at thd top and the m/c at the bottom. Use a clear hose on the nipple straight up. It's all about gravity. Here is an example.

Did you remove the spark plug cap and trim back the plug wire till you had clean wire again?

Should only need to be done once. Use a clear 2-3 foot bleeder hose draped over the rear fender to see what you are doing and for gravity to help.

You need a friend. Someone to teach you how to ride. Body english is what trials is all about. The only time you have straight legs is to hold pressure.

You should have been around in 2011 with formula brakes on the new models. Most brake problems are self induced and almost all trials bikes use the same parts.

You need to burp the banjo bolt on both ends of the hose. Just a quick loosening and retightning will get it moving. It helps if the caliper is higher than the m/c.

Call your dealer, and he shkuld get the info from the importer. Have you pulled off the flywheel, cleaned the rotor, checked all wirs inside and made sure you did not shear the flywheel key? Next thing would check all grounds, including the screws that hold the stator on.

Well it`s about time this thread got used.

Actually you are not wrong. The zap was made during a time that the suspension was still not very refined. You had to really drop the front end really low to get the desired outcome and it was on the edge. And now most people have learned to drop the tire close to the top. So it is almost a rollup rather than the old style zap. But a rider doing a bridge can still get 5 foot of lift from a dead stop. Not me, but my son comes close. I can remember when the bunny hop was introduced with the double blip on our twin shock bikes. We thought we were unstoppable. LOL.