lineaway

Another thing, you say it was sticking. The brakes were locking up, the lever was not returning? You used dot 4 brake fluid? Over tightening the adjustment can leave no free play which causes chaos. Also it is possible the bike came with a poor m/c in the first place. Ps, the front brake should just self bleed. Another thing you can try is pump up the lever and tie it closed to the lever over night.

You took it apart. Did you install a new rebuild kit?

The longest seem to align with the dowel pins, two others with the water pump and then the rest are short. Most leaks on that cover are from the kick start seal. Good luck.

Are you riding it like a trials bike or just going fast.

That it could, but I would just pull the header pipe to have a look,see.

Minimum would be a top end and cylinder. But as bad as it sounds could also be a rod. In case you missed it, it`s not a race bike. It could of been the cable, the throttle assembly, the slide, carb body or missing the needle jet and or the cable attached to the slide improperly. Good luck.

I gurantee that thats the correct way. But hold it until the engine cleans out. That puts more air into the engine just the opposite from the choke.

First thing with kids, is the lanyard connected? And if it does flood, you need to hold the throttle wide open when starting.

Just bend it out. A new condensor might help the hard starting, and can be relocated to under the tank.

Carb 101, always check the pilot circuit. At least you cured aNy future problems.

Did you change out the o rings in the slave/clutch cover?

That's right, but my 04 Raga 300 was mineral oil. But back then they were basically the next years model.

I may be wrong here, but I thought all pro's took mineral oil.

Go back to an A to kerp your speed up!

Are you sure it was not a gearing issue. The Gassers usually come geared a little tall in first. Of course the Gas Gas bikes always felt the best in the parking lot.

Well just remove the insert if they are new! Mine were destroyed.

Grind down the peg before it screws up the lever.

If its bad you will need the bushes too. Take it apart and you should be able to see the bearing numbers still.

That`s because if you are in the U.K. the bikes come with a heavy flywheel. The rest of us the bikes have more zip!

Its like riding a "96 Beta 250 with better brakes and suspension. I would just find the cleanest newer Beta 250 you can find.

New pic today as I added a few more parts. 2 day event next weekend. My son and 2 grandsons will be competing!

Thanks for the feedback. What is so bad about the braktec set up out of interest.? I had a factory Beta with a bad braktek front brake M/C from new. About 2 months ago my Clutch M/C went bad during an event. Now I never worry about it.

The skid plate, front caliper and the clutch mods would be about the only thing I would do, if I ever get another Montesa. Everything else was just bling, besides the gearing change.

CSP parts. Triple clamps, skid plate, case saver, m/c lids, Timing bolt, both oil fillers, gas cap, axle nut, swingarm bushing covers, dog bone and dog bone skid plate, lever adjusters. S3 PARTS Header pipe, curve foot pegs, bar ends, digit levers. Jitsie 9 tooth counter shaft sprocket, 38 tooth solid red rear sprocket. TRS Gold front caliper with matching AJP large resivoir M/C on brake and clutch. Replaced magnet with ATV racing teather. Went to EBC friction plates and Apico dimpled steel plates. Apico aluminum fast throttle tube. Modded my clutch basket for better oil flow to the plates. 48 added holes. Now I run dexron 6 with a great feeling clutch. No more using Elf oil for me.

I went with the stronger skidplate and cut the plate rubber to make oil filter changes easier. I also put longer skid plate bolts in the rear, to never have to remove the skid plate during a oil filter replacement.