lineaway

So how are you checking It? Partially assembled or all the way back together and no first gear.

I gave a guy that same advice on his 10 month old 2010. He eneded up buying the whole transmission.

In 1976 they did a mid year change. You need to check your vin against a parts book.

Depends on the year.

They probably saw the writing on the wall. Seems we have a new series promoter this year, can`t operate in the red.

I have done the Beta fix on ither bikes, but my '16 has no drag at all. It could be my springs as I used 160 Gasser springs cut down to length.At the start of this year I severed the tendon in my clutch finger, so I had to make my clutch pull as light as possible. Lighter pull than about any bike and very progressive. Probably not the best for zaps, but I still get up most ledges ok.

Running Motul 7100 10/40 in my 16 factory 250 2T. Switched to Motul since this is what my son runs in his 4T. Best clutch I ever had in a Beta.

Proper idle at 1800 rpm? Fuel might have moisture in it.

Sure you have the correct lever? Looking at your pic it is either wrong or you have the adjuster on the mc cranked all the way in.

When I scored in `13 it was the rule, but watching recent videos it must have changed again. I`ll be scoring the USA round in July. All this discussion about minders and the pauses will be interesting to see how FIM wants the scorers to interpret the rule.

It takes 650 cc 10/30 oil. You might pull the clutch plates out for inspection. The friction plates were known to come apart from the steel.

Not all baking soda is the same. https://crunchybetty.com/the-great-baking-soda-anti-hoax/

Would not work, rear tire drop off a large obstacle and you five a guy as soon as he taps the front brake that is in the air?

Just make sure the suspension works together in unison. It should well suit you at 180. Go ride it for several weeks and break it in. http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/2017-beta-factory-rear-shocks.1213543/

A local rider had a 2014 repsol and improved dramatically with the 300RR.

Myself I would rather get a five for stopping than running out of time. And that is what we are really talking about. Bring the stop back also means the clock.

Besides making you stronger, there is much that can be done with bike set up. The more leverage you get is better so move the M/C inward. Better to grip the lever with the middle knuckle of your finger. So adjust it. A thinner blade lever like the S3 Digit. You could find lighter clutch springs or make them yourself. (Do not remove two clutch springs as some suggest. It does not work.)

They should have called it NO CLOCK..

That is all good, but normal wear for a 12 year old bike. Just how long have you owned it? I would be more concerned about the cracking around the foot peg mounts.

Did the detent bolt loosen up and the starter fall out of place. That is the bolt just under the mid pipe at the top of the case.

Being a Honda dealer in Texas , the chances of them having any spares is slim and none.

More like the newer M/c is not near as good. If you look at most new M/C fluid levels it is black as can be.

I tried to get you to call me Billy but since deleted my number. The correct way to measure yours was by the finger height. The best number to attain is 18 mm. You can do that with thinner steel plates or by skimming the friction plates. And by the way the plates seperating was very common on Gassers.

Just put the front tire against an obstacle in fourth gear and burn in the clutch. Instant fix without any more work may take a couple attempts as most people are to chicken to get after it properly.

Back in the day of the MAR we ran no idle. The engine had so much mass (along with the Bul and the Cota.) that it slowed it down enough the brakes almost worked. That style of riding works pretty good with more modern sections. With an idle it just runs to quick.