lineaway

The only way to check the shaft is to remove it. Also the pins on the drum the selector connects too can break.

It`s supposed to be the rim that is slightly off on tolerance.

Going to 4 springs is not the answer. You can take a spring out and measure it and order a lighter spring from several spring mfg`rs. Inside, outside, total length, collapsed length, number of coils and spring diameter. Takes some experimentation, but worth it. I just spent two days making the perfect clutch for me on my beta. I lost my tendon in the tip of my clutch finger at Christmas. After 40 yrs I just cannot get my middle finger to work instead of my index finger.

Wrong, we do not want more rules. You should just worry about yourself. Most of my injuries have been torn ACL`s. So I wear custom knee braces. So should we require everyone to wear custom knee braces? Maybe we should require a test section and if you 5 it, you load the bike and go home. I have seen countless 5`s from the stupid magnets. And stupid mistakes when your hand comes off the bars. Ever seen them at a motocross race yet? Maybe we need a lanyard in the car so you cannot text. That would be fun watching the cars stalling all over the place! By the way Guy`s I was mistaken. I`ve ruined a perfectly good helmet twice. I forgot the time a large truck ran me over on the street.

Did you replace the vent tubes?

If it`s out of whack, find a friend or shop with a press. Couple minute job.

Just how long have you been riding trials that makes you sooo concerned. Just so you understand this, you are more likely to get hurt from the lanyard coming off at the wrong moment than it coming off at the right moment. Did you see how far Fuji gas`s Montesa flew in Japan last year. The lanyard did nothing. A helmet has saved me once. (I started riding before helmets) I`ve had more injuries than most through the years and safety devices or lack of is not the problem. You are human, **** happens. 45 years of trials, cant wait for the next twenty plus!

No it`seems to me it was way inside the frame top of the radiator, Maybe the radiator top bolt.

The Jap Zap came along over 25 years ago. At that time new techniques moved through the world pretty damn slow and who knows how many name changes it went through. And yes it was supposed to be developed by Jap riders, which I could see since they ride a lot of man made obstacles. Just like we were amazed by the bunny hop in `74 as the new technique to get over under cut ledges!

Boy you two should know better. The Jap zap was the original name, but in fairy land it became a zap. A zap is basically a double blip with the clutch included. Nowadays it has included the bridge which is just a stopped zap. The biggest thing with the Jap Zap is you hit the front tire lower than the blip. (This idea has changed through the years to include hitting the front anywhere since suspension has become better.) This compresses the suspension and the clutch is used to utilize the full force of the release. The zap and blip always uses the front wheel on the obstacle first. There is a lot more too it. Check out Ryan Young training videos. Anything that the rear wheel hits first is a splatter or an old fashioned jump.

It should, but the chance of the coil being bad is slim. Have you trimmed the coil wire back 10-20mm ?

Between sections riding Vintage on a 500. Had a heart attack. He was an accomplished plastic surgeon just about ready to retire.

Sounds more like an Ethanol issue. Got plenty of new 16`s and 17`s in our club and no issues.

Do a search on the Fantic or Bultaco forum for more pics. The Montesa forum does not have as much info. I have not done it, or yet. My old 348 is fairly quiet, but she is very plugged with oil.

You probably need to repack the box.

If the mains are moving, so is the seal. Bingo, that is the air leak.

To check the mains you do not need to remove the flywheel. You are checking movement.

Pull the flywheel cover off and give it a good tug up and down. Good chance the mains and seals have gone bad,

The fast way will probably cost you a set of pads. Remove the caliper and fill with brake fluid through the banjo bolt hole. Reinstall and connect the hose. Fill the m/c and crack the bolt at the caliper slightly. Tighten the caliper bolt once fluid is coming out the hose. At this point you might get lucky and the m/c will slowly pump up with air bubbles rising to the top. If not the best way to bleed the system is with a three foot clear hose that reaches above the m/c. Patiently pump the system slowly till the fluid is above the m/c. If you still have bubbles, empty the line and do again. You can also take the whole brake assembly off the bike and hang it by the caliper. You need to put something firmly between the pads. The idea is the air will go up easier this way. Still use a clear hose above the caliper to bleed, slowly pumping the lever. If the fluid does not move, the m/c is bad and/or the lever is adjusted wrong. Better to take the lever off and pump with a Phillips screw driver.

Why were you bleeding it in the first place? Did you rebuild the m/c as that might be needed.

It is a six spring clutch, you could just leave two springs completely out. Worst thing that could happen is some slippage in 5th and 6th.

Go to gas gas motos and compare the parts book. Oh, gee they do not list the contact. Ever wonder why?

I have ridden a 2017 Gasser, not the GP. Last weekend I rode the Sherco with the new clutch which was good for a Sherco, but I`ll leave it at that. The new factory is not here yet, but I have never been a Sherco fan. And I have ridden last years RR, but never understood peoples fascination with Honda. We have 8 4RT`s at work and the clutches are just awful. By the way I commented the clutch was not hard, but I did not take the poor guys bike out and thrash it hard as it being as new.

Almost sounds like a grounding issue. Check all earths and connections over again. PS double check all the pins in the cdi are making contact.