lineaway

That`s funny, I just replaced those crap unbreakable levers on my son`s bike yesterday. They might be unbreakable but the feel and leverage is terrible. Tip. The m/c should be farther down the handlebar so the lever is not exposed and gives better leverage. If you need the lever closer to the bar, grind the end off the push pin.

Do a search of this forum for cracked frames. You will find cracked frames from `08 to `14. Also cracked cases. The new bikes sure did handle better, but used bikes come with a price. Give the man an honest answer.

I would stay away from the `03 and the `09. Even better find a `13.

And the first tubular frame liked to break. `04 and beyond was a safer bet. Personally I think the `06 and `07 were it`s best years.

Beta and many bikes do this when cold. Not a big deal, but always point the bike in a clear direction.

05 looking plastic, but the old 6 bolt rear hub. They only made two different stators anyway.

Put a timimg light on it. It sounds like it`s not advancing. Since you have had the cover off, did you grab the flywheel and tug up and down to see if the mains are bad?

Seems there is two thoughts on vintage events. Very easy ones were everybody has beautiful bikes (That are very original) that stay that way. Or more traditional sections that are more fun to ride, (as they have real obstacles) and your bike should be up to date to compete with like minded riders. You should post your location, to get better advice.

Galfer red, 223 and 224. Chances are the rear pads were just worn out.

For a shop, a ceiling mounted natural gas heater is the best. If you are on propane. I would get a wood stove. I used to spend a lot of time Bench racing in the evenings at a motorcycle shop with about 60 bikes. We never had a problem, with the flames vs fumes no matter how much we drank. You will be spending more time in that shop, so make it warm. As you get older, you are supposed to move to warmer! WTF?

http://shercousa.com/?page_id=328 What you are looking for is under the misc. link and go to lubrication guide.

About two dozen or more mfg make them. Alpinestars seem to be the most expensive. just do a goggle search.

If you can find all six gears by turning the sprocket and the clutch, everything should be fine. Remember the engine is turning usually when you shift a running engine.

I`ve seen bikes come in for a new clutch with counter shaft sprockets that resemble that pic.

Does the front sprocket have worn or bent teeth? Or is it nice and shiny from metal on metal? The rear is usually aluminum, so does not shine like the front. I go through 2-3 chains to a set of sprockets. Crazy some say, but trials is different from all motor sports. We do not put thousands of miles on a set of sprockets, we put hundreds. Our wear comes from all the starts and stops and stress of ups and drops. We ride in dirt, mud and water. Slowly, and then zap a big rock. Which stretches said chain. Do you know Montesa recommends the 4rt piston to be replaced after like 60 hours? Most 4RT riders are still on the stock piston ten years later. Say it isn`t so!

Any member suing the club leaves himself wide open to have his ass kicked.

Modern bikes are comfy and easy on your joints and you expect great things like leaping over buildings. Vintage bikes are rough feeling and can be problematic cuz they are old. Either way you still have to have the same amount of skill to make the bikes work. I ride both, just because I enjoy riding. Our Vintage club is just a little more fun.

And WD 40`s intented use was a water displacement. Rarely is it used for it`s purpose! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BihzycFR2hs

marvel mystery oil.

Just what I always wanted to do, pass out and wake up in the Big State of Texas and ride hung over and drive a long way home. I`m in. As long as my son does the driving.

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/61138-stumped-by-my-sherpa/page-3

The 250 with the air box where the tank should be is a real bitch to get back together. The air boot is made for a Keihin, but the 250 has a Del Orto. Sherco made an odd rubber adapter that is offset to fit this carb. Sometimes it pops right on and other times it is a real pain. To properly clean a carb, you have to take it completely apart to clean properly. The pilot circuit actually has to different inlet points. One in the center of the carb and one just in front of the slide. Both have to be clear. Make sure the choke circuit is clean at all points also.

Just to confirm, the exhaust could of just burned up the old oil. Myself with a new bike I would check it over pretty good. Good luck.

Sounds more like you have ran it hard, and the carb was set up for trials. They will overheat. You need to confirm your jetting and also if the impellor is actually moving fluid. If it was mine, I would pull off the front pipe and check out the piston to see if you nipped it.

You never mentioned the fan or coolant.