All is true. I would do 650cc of 10w40. 750 would be on an engine rebuild. 50:1 if you are trail riding. Pull apart the clutch plates to make sure the friction plates are not coming apart. The glue was known to fail.
It probably has an S3, but you will not know for sure if it is or the size till you have cleaned her up. The crank should be fine, unless the rod is bad.
The bushing will slide right in, always use a little grease when assembling hydraulics. The pvc will work fine on the seals. Bushings are usually Teflon coated. Good luck. I hope you have a new set of fork guards to protect them forks.
First off move the condenser to under the tank by the ignition coil. Sounds like a grounding problem. So does the bike still have lights? It would be much easier if not.
Ha! I quit trying to out ride my kid!
I still stretch fine, as I was more limber than my fat ass revealed.
I enjoy a Vintage trials as much as a Modern event.
I dropped down a class to make Monday much easier.
My fanny pack now has beer instead of parts!
I still enjoy every ride as much as I did as a teenager!
Usually the hardest thing is to break the bead. Second hardest thing is to pop the bead. Use plenty of lube and best to air the tire in a safe place away from you!
PS. Let the tire sit spread in the heat using a tube or blocks for a day.
That`s great advice Dan, but it depends on the condition of fluid. I would drain it all if you are having problems. Contaminated fluid has no business in a rebuild. But I do agree refilling the caliper first.
Your member id shows a 2001. The pro came out in `02. The video for the pro seal change got removed from the web. Even the parts diagram shows the spring side to the impellor. Good luck.
