lineaway

You just remove the 3? plate screws, not the coils themselves. The plate should just pop out.

Remember all those kicks is wearing out the crappy kick start pawl (Bart as it`s called for it`s half moon shape). The gasser does not have a full 360 degree gear, it is very short. Sounds like you are not getting fuel when cold. Throw the bike on the ground to prime the carb. Use the starting method I explained in your other post. You might be just too low on compression. P.S, when I bought my Raga the previous owner sold it because he could not start it. For awhile I had my son start it for me until I figured it out. Good luck.

Usually the flywheel, unless it has been relocated. Condensers are made to die. Coils usually not. New points never hurt. P and C was the drill back in the day.

It`s probably fine, you are not getting movement on both transmission shafts. You are only moving one.

The clutch arm can become corroded in the case. Remove, clean and grease.

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/58148-2016-sherco-300-carb-jets/

Buy a larger float bowl.

As above clean the carb. Make sure the pilot is not plugged. The Pro takes a certain kicking method to start. Slowly kick it through the stroke two or three times. (At this point you are not trying to start it.) Then slowly get the starter to top dead center and the top of the stroke. You have to feel the kick start gears are engaged before you kick or it will self destruct. Once all the above is right. Give it a good strong kick. But remember it is a good short stroke.

Usually a Montesa has too many neutrals. Don`t worry about it.

http://www.betausa.com/sites/default/files/pdf/2012Support/Service%20Manuals/Mototrial/2009-2012%20Evo%204%20stroke%20engine.pdf page17

All is true. I would do 650cc of 10w40. 750 would be on an engine rebuild. 50:1 if you are trail riding. Pull apart the clutch plates to make sure the friction plates are not coming apart. The glue was known to fail.

The 80`s were nice and flickable.

It probably has an S3, but you will not know for sure if it is or the size till you have cleaned her up. The crank should be fine, unless the rod is bad.

The TY175 is the most popular vintage bike in the states. I would never ride one, but they are a dime a dozen.

From the dry rocks we ride, that tire is good for another year or more!

The bushing will slide right in, always use a little grease when assembling hydraulics. The pvc will work fine on the seals. Bushings are usually Teflon coated. Good luck. I hope you have a new set of fork guards to protect them forks.

A small right angled pick (or two) will just lift it out. Maybe a little at a time. Just don`t scratch the wall.

Don`t worry about it till you have new bushings in your hand. They will just slide up out of the seal cup. You can see the seam in the picture.

You have to have free play in the lever. You can grind a little off the push pin to bring the lever closer to the bar, but still have enough play.

First off move the condenser to under the tank by the ignition coil. Sounds like a grounding problem. So does the bike still have lights? It would be much easier if not.

If it runs it`s not a mess. The `new` company made the owner of the only site that had a diagram remove it. Good luck.

Ha! I quit trying to out ride my kid! I still stretch fine, as I was more limber than my fat ass revealed. I enjoy a Vintage trials as much as a Modern event. I dropped down a class to make Monday much easier. My fanny pack now has beer instead of parts! I still enjoy every ride as much as I did as a teenager!

It never happened. Try a 2008 beta or a 2008 sherco.

Usually the hardest thing is to break the bead. Second hardest thing is to pop the bead. Use plenty of lube and best to air the tire in a safe place away from you! PS. Let the tire sit spread in the heat using a tube or blocks for a day.

Put more bikes in the back, nothing to do with tires.