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Call trialspartsusa.com. That is your best bet.
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That`s great advice Dan, but it depends on the condition of fluid. I would drain it all if you are having problems. Contaminated fluid has no business in a rebuild. But I do agree refilling the caliper first.
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http://www.redrubbergrease.com/tips-how-to-brake-caliper-failure-repair-with-rebuild-kit.html
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Red rubber grease for assembly.
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I would check the intake boot as they tear easily.
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Myself I would rather see clean oil, than the dreaded other. It`s more of a time thing as the quantity is so small.
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Your member id shows a 2001. The pro came out in `02. The video for the pro seal change got removed from the web. Even the parts diagram shows the spring side to the impellor. Good luck.
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If you are just riding AHRMA the bike should already be good to go. The NATC vintage class or ITSA vintage trials is a whole animal of another color. For riding modern events it needs to be geared down considerably. Good brakes and suspension is worth way more than frame mods.
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Most work like this is easily done with air tools. You might put the fork back together and on the bike. Compress the forks with tie downs and then try with the tools at hand.
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Did you put the seal in backwards? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbiaqCHPKoU
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That`s funny as K&N actually made a filter for the reflex. The xr 100 will also fit. To get real air flow cut the top of the air box using a current filter. Say, a Sherco filter off a 2008. Not running an air box is just silly on a trials bike. Fair weathered riding?
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You need to make an air box. Using just an air filter has never been a good practice on any bike used off road. You could always use the stock box, and custom make a filter for the top of the box to get more air flow than stock.
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All frames break when ridden hard. The 4Rt, Gassers, Sherco`s and Beta has had it`s share too. Too early to tell on the new comers.
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If you do a search for cracked cases you will see this has happened several times before. Seems the cracked cases were usually the magnesium ones.
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That is not the problem. You need to pull the motor and see if the center cases are broke.
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Shocks are not as hard as people think. With that being a remote reservoir, I think it had a Schrader valve. Which makes it quite easy to release pressure and charge once you are done. Get help to take it apart. If the seal head is in reasonable good shape, all you will need is two seals and several o rings. These parts can be ordered through any hydraulic shop. Just might take a week or two. This way is much cheaper than sourcing the parts through a `kit`. Probably under 20 bucks. I did my Ohlins this way over a year ago. Good Luck!
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Must have been one of mine and I recognized your user name!
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It`s either the gasket or the kickstart seal. The seal sometimes gets pushed out. After you get the KS off the shaft, try using a socket to seat the seal again.
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I liked the Ossa, but would not recommend any brand that is no longer in business. If you have an Ossa that actually starts, good for you. I also change elevations frequently, so jetting is much easier to me since I can do that before I show up at an event.
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You mightbe conserned. Between the routing of the clutch line and no oil showing in the window.
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The rev 3 were usually the best at low traction in it`s day. As previously said you need a real trials tire. Try the new Dunlap 803 Gp`s.
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Most of the newer hydraulics are crap. Ever since 2010, but nobody wants to talk about the white elephant in the room.
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Donor? Everything on the 2002 was upgraded. You can upgrade a 2002, but not use a 2002 to fix the crap problems. Good Luck.
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Is the bushings for the center cases in on both sides?
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