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I guess it depends on rider skill level and difficulty level also. The rider who rode the Nationals had won the High School and Expert class championships previously and was riding the Pro class before switching his attention to hard enduro. He is sponsored by the importer and was riding the top of the line bike. It seems in a tough muddy trial with lots of clutch slipping, 7 hours is not enough for one battery.

I have an Oset 24 and found that there is a difference between run time and full performance run time. Mine has 3 red LED battery level indicators and an orange low level light. When all three reds are on all the time, I get full performance. When the top light starts flashing off under load, performance drops especially when going up a bank with a rock on top. I won't get the same quick throttle to get the front end up. I can get a lot of riding time until the orange light flashes but not as much full performance time. There is a sponsored EM rider who rode 3 rounds of the USA Nationals in the Expert class this year and he found he couldn't complete the trial without a battery swap with a DNF on his first try. Probably one battery was enough but not at the same performance level all day.

Here is my cooling system with meat thermometer to keep an eye on temp. If I ever replace the brushes I will make some vents in the motor housing a run a tube up the frame with a fan to pull the heat out. There is a wire that can be cut to disable heat sensor but Oset told me it was only for diagnostic purposes for the early 24R and it should stay connected or the motor could melt. The Oset clutch is similar to the earlier Electric Motion electronic clutch. Not necessary for an Oset but I'd like it on my eMTB. I've been riding it at skateparks and I can't use moto technique going up over bowl walls by throttling when the rear wheel compresses at the bottom. I have a throttle on it but it has a big delay. With a clutch I could time it right and accelerate over the top then cut off power.

Brushed motors run hotter than brushless? When I trail ride my Oset 24 the motor overheats and goes into limp mode after 20 minutes with the dials all the way to the right. My 2000 watt electric mountain bike never has an overheating problem. This guy sells an electronic Oset clutch and I'd like to try something like it on my emtb that has a throttle. https://sites.google.com/pretoriaengineering.com/osetclutch

My biggest complaint about my Oset brushed motor is how hard it is to back the bike out of my garage! The instant throttle response is worth the trouble and my ebike has a long lag and the surron lightbee I tried also has an annoying lag. The solution would be a brushless motor with a clutch.

I use them on my pit bikes and they work good.

To ride comfortably sitting I like the seat to be the same height as the gas cap. This one that I made is easily removeable after I'm done trail riding and the mounting bracket always stays on. I've since added a knob screw to mount the front down and the back is held by the hook and velcro. I cut the seat from firm foam and coated with Herculiner.

It doesn't look like Ducati which is a silver finned box with Ducati written on it. They are known to go bad and the common replacement is a Kokusan ignition which is used on most gas gas of that era so maybe that is what you have.

I bought an Oset 24 17 inch rear wheel with a Vee tubeless tire that came with a rimlock and tube and it works fine except I wish the rubber was as soft as a Dunlop D803

Not very fast. On a straightaway you want to go faster. You can put a smaller rear sprocket from the 20R to go faster. I find that the motor overheats and triggers the thermal cutoff when trail riding for more than 25 minutes. If the motor gets too hot to touch, it is ready to go into limp mode. I have a meat thermometer attached to my motor and when it gets near 140f, I give it a rest and maybe pour water on it.

The US Oset importer responded to my question and said the bulletin was intended for early lithium models to diagnose if they have a faulty thermal cutoff switch that cuts off too early. Otherwise, not advised to disconnect or risk burning up the motor. The sensor goes into limp mode at 194F and should turn the motor off at 212F. Another tip he recommended is to turn the key switch off on long downhills to prevent heat buildup.

I just found out about this recommendation to cut the thermal switch wire. Mine is a mid 2017 model and goes into limp mode when riding fast. Does anyone know if they got rid of the thermal switch in the newer models? Mine has three wires coming out of the motor.

I bought my boost battery in 2020 and the charger is way bigger that the stock one. 9”x3”. It looks the same as yours but mine has a laser printed label with a different output spec of 8A. It also says “battery type suited: 14S Li-ion battery pack. Maybe I have an updated charger. When riding, if the motor gets too hot to touch, the thermal switch is likely to cut power. I installed cooling fins and a meat thermometer and plan to get a bar mounted digital one. When the motor starts getting hot I’ll pour some water on it.

How long do you get before the top LED starts blinking? My 24R is 3 years old and during the summer the ride time starting dropping so I replaced with the Boost Battery. When the top LED starts blinking under load the performance drops. I get about 7 miles before that happens. The past few weeks I did some fast trail riding and after 6-7 miles the thermal cutoff switch would trigger and cut power to 1/4. LEDs would show full power and after cooling down it would run fine. I never did trail riding on the stock battery so I don't know if the Boost battery is making it overheat. It never overheats when I am doing backyard trials riding. I was wondering if the stock 48 volt would be better for fast trail riding with all the dials turned to full or maybe I need to turn down the power level with the Boost.

A friend has a 2013 Gas Gas Pro and the main bearings were replaced twice, tank is soft and leaky and the idler gear bearing fell apart damaging the primary and clutch gear teeth. I have a 2005 4RT and like it as well as my 2007 Sherco and 2007 Gas Gas. I think the Showa suspension is better but prefer the lighter 2 strokes for competing. I also like the grabbier clutch of the Montesa and Sherco over the Gas Gas.

That ebay rim is 17". The Oset 17" rim is narrower than 1.6" I got mine from https://mototrialsport.com/ It came as a complete wheel with tire installed and I got the option of bracket and sprocket for quick wheel swap. Pricey at $400. I couldn't find a source for the rim to build my own. It uses bicycle spokes so I don't think a motorcycle rim would work without drilling the hub? The only decent 17 inch rear tire is the Vee Rubber trials tire that it comes with. Not that great with harder rubber than a real trials tire and packs with mud easier. The tire says radial, tubless but the wheel has a rimlock. You should check if an 18" trials tire will rub on the chain. I imagine the extra weight will rob power. A guy named Felix Popoki in Hawaii builds 17 and 18 inch wheels for the Sur Ron. You can ask him for his rim source or maybe he can build one. https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1313021-sur-ron-whos-got-one/page/10/#comments

I use this super thick tube. https://www.amazon.com/Nuetech-Tubliss-Inner-Tube-Rear/dp/B0065725RI You can get them for free from enduro users who throw away damaged ones.

This is a great fix! When I first got my 24R, it took me several sessions to adjust to using the throttle. To get up a 3 ft obstacle I would have to approach at a walking speed to minimize the throttle lag. Now with the spacer and no lag, the throttle is a lot more like my gas bikes and I can use a stop and hop riding style. It is still different but the good news is it doesn't mess up my gas bike riding. When going down a steep decent on the Oset, I am gradually getting rid of the habit of trying to brake with my foot.

Some dimensions here: https://www.boost-bikes.co.uk/collections/oset-battery-packs I have the 24 and it is just a cube with a velcro strap. For backyard riding the stock battery has too much capacity for me. It can last me three trials sessions. Fast trail riding will drain it quickly but slow technical riding uses little juice with my preferred setting of 3/4 speed on the top dial.It might be fun to make a battery pack that is half the weight and last just one session.

I have no complaints about the brakes on my 24r. I weigh 140lbs.

I have a 2007 250 pro and haven't noticed different thickness in the plates. There is a fine line between too thick and stiff pull and not thick enough and slipping. I noticed a lack of rear wheel jump when popping the clutch as the fibers wore down and the pull became easy. You can buy different thickness metal plates and/or this adjuster and even try sanding down new fibers slightly. I use ATF Type F oil. If you try the clutch of an expert rider, it will have a stiff pull. https://www.splatshop.co.uk/xiu-rdi-adjustable-spring-clutch-support-plate.html

Bou has the longest winning streak in professional sports at 13 years with 26 titles and counting. Maybe he feels he needs to reduce risks that can jeopardize his streak.

55 years old, 5'4", 138lbs. I turn the speed dial down to the start of the red zone for trials and for trail riding everything all the way right. When trail riding the battery can drain quickly but for backyard trials it just sips the juice.

I've been riding my Oset 24 in my backyard stop and hop style and the battery lasts longer than my body. I can do 3 one hour sessions on one charge.

gasgas.com only has trials bikes now.Word is no enduro or mx bikes until 2021. I wonder if we will see 2020 trials bikes on the showroom floor of local KTM dealers?