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I have the same bike and had electrical problems the last few years with it cutting out with no spark and the fan going out. After cooling down a few hours it would start up then cut out again after 20 minutes. I swapped out the Ducati ignition with Kokusan and it has been running good since.

Another easy thing to check is that the rear wheel is aligned straight. One side of my snail cam knocked out of alignment, made the chain and sprocket make a clicking noise and caused the rear disc bolts to come loose.

Beta Alp 80, 1990's?

I would learn the roll up with double blip before trying to get the rear wheel to lift with the double blip. You can get up and over some big stuff with the roll up. The rear wheel lifted off the ground is only really needed when the obstacle is undercut.

I use this on my Gas Gas: Item : RS-540 Motor - 12V [bane Bots] SKU : BB-M5-RS540-12 [M2-RS540-120] Quantity : 2 Item Price : $6.99 www.trossenrobotics.com

I had the same problem with slow fan that later quit. Replaced reg/rect, ran good for a couple of years then fan quit again. This happened two more times then swapped out Ducati with Kokusan which seems like the best long term solution.

I successfully replaced my Ducati ignition with Kokusan. It was straighforward except for placing the CDI box. I ended up using double sided foam tape to mount on the side of the radiator. My Ducati ignition has been a real pain for the last 5 years, going through 4 regulator/rectifiers. I bought a complete Kokusan system through trialsbikebreakersuk ebay store. They usually have separate components available and if you are lucky, a whole system as a kit. They are parting out a lot of older GG.

Here's some Section info: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxBeU0dgYDXKLXc5SFd4cUZaLVE/view?usp=sharing

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Brasscraft-CSSC11-36-1-2-ID-5-8-OD-ProCoat-Coated-Stainless-Steel-Gas-Connector-w-3-4-MIP-Fittings-36-Length?gclid=CjwKEAjw8da8BRDssvyH8uPEgnoSJABJmwYohcyapOK-jCyjpiEWNl_vEirQjhIoEMpWrsSpzukZPBoC7dTw_wcB

The nut adjusts the spring preload. My Fantic Section had an overheating problem which caused pinging. I found out that the old hoses got soft and the one at the pump on the suction side would squeeze itself shut. I replaced it with a metal gas water heater hose.

If it's a slick log you want to barely touch the front wheel and do a floating turn to square up as much as possible then anticipate the rear sliding over. If the log has grippy bark, then you can jab the front end into the log and do a floater.

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/your-backyard-trials-setups.498211/

I bet there's a kicker hidden behind the log. When there's no kicker, he has more speed and does a upper body double pump to get that kind of lift.

I use a 16lb sledgehammer to beat it back into shape and use rubber from a loading dock bumper since the original rubber got soft and cracked. Neglecting the bashplate can lead to costly cracked cases. Also your shifter position is set much lower than normal.

PMP Sprockets will custom make any size rear sprocket you need.

The newer models use a chinese motor that is a copy of the yamaha ttr motor.

I have a DVD that came with my 07 that covers most repairs. I can upload to youtube if someone else has not already.

It seems to me that if it's an "easy" trial (single digits), advantage Raga, regardless of what he is riding. If it's tough, especially outdoors, Bou by a good margin.

I did something similar with KX100 pegs ($20 with free shipping off ebay) on my KX100 trials hybrid. Cut the part of the stock pegs off and weld the new pegs on the back. With more welding and fabricating it could be lowered and moved back more but I like my simple solution. Untitled by burning retinas, on Flickr

They do make an electric kid's trials bike. http://torrotelectric.com/en/kids/t10

The kicker is meant to hit the peg so I wouldn't move it from the original position. I always stand on the pegs when kick starting by leaning on a tree or having my left foot on a rock or log. If you take someone who rides japanese enduro/mx bikes and put him on a GG pro, he will repeatedly jam down hard on the kicker and chip the internal gears then it will bind up and on the next hard kick the case will break apart. You need to start out gentle and make sure the kick gear is engaged and give a swift kick standing on the pegs.

I rode a full day without losing spark. The last two steps solved it, either replacing the wires to the trigger coil or routing the two wires from the stator back into its channel. The other things I did before didn't solve it: replacing spark plug wire and connection junction plug to coil.

After fiddling with the wires more I was able to ride for an hour without any issues. First I replaced the two wires going to the trigger coil. Then I noticed the two wires coming from the stator were not where they should be. Behind the trigger coil is a thin shaped metal piece with a channel that keeps the two wires away from the flywheel. The wires were not in the channel so I put them back in. I'm not sure which procedure did the trick but I had a full hour of riding without losing spark and will see if this continues.

Did you buy this part? http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/P7.html It has the same 30mm bolt spacing but is 228 ohms instead of the 250 ohms of the original GG part. I'm having the same problem with the same bike except it won't always get spark again after it cools down. Sometimes it does, sometimes not and sometimes spark returns after fiddling with wires then it will run for about 20 minutes until it dies and no spark again. Sometimes it will run shorter, anywhere from 3 to10 minutes, but usually about 15 minutes average. This last time, I rode 20 minutes, bike died with no spark, I let bike sit for 5 hours, still no spark, then I unbolted pickup coil, then bolted back on and spark returned.