feetupfun

I have always wondered where the "gas" name for US car fuel came from, but there is nothing strange about how they identify gas. Gases are identified by name, same as everywhere else.

The pressure relief valve may be blocked and that could be the weakest hose connection

I'm pretty sure those studs are cast in place

Photos would be much more useful for identification

Sorry I don't know what you are trying to remove but I'm sure you can also make use of gravity to help prevent particles entering the intake or exhaust port. On one of my bikes (an OSSA) I always string the bike up upside down when I take the cylinder off so that no rust or dirt falls into the crankcase.

Do you have the important dimensions JC? George is a master at sourcing pistons for oddball motors

There are plenty of coatings available to protect stored metal. They are usually waxy and work by not allowing water or oxygen to penetrate and can be removed with common solvents. Available at bearing, tool and machinery shops

The piston numbers say that the piston is 0.5mm oversize (0.5mm bigger than standard). From what you have said, you should have the cylinder rebored to a larger oversize. Which oversize to use can be determined by measurement of the cylinder by someone experienced at the job (usually the person who would be doing the rebore work) Some brands of pistons are available in size steps of 0.25mm and some brands are available in steps of 0.5mm. The biggest piston kit available is 2.00mm oversize. Unless your cylinder is extremely worn, you are likely to only need to increase the piston size to 1.00mm oversize. Don't buy a piston kit until you have had the cylinder measured.

The tank decals, being so crooked, give me doubts about the quality of the rest of the resto

I find that if I let the fuel in the float bowl evaporate (which doesn't take long here), the next time I ride, the pilot circuit misbehaves for the first few minutes. The fuel in the tank seems fine though for at least a month. I'm not game to leave the fuel tap turned on to prevent the bowl drying out, so to avoid the problem I usually run the float bowl out of fuel before parking the bike if it's going to be a couple of weeks to the next ride. I think if it was a colder place it might take longer for the fuel to evaporate from the float bowl. I imagine that a heated storage in Canada would also evaporate the fuel in the float bowl in a couple of weeks. I expect it would take many months for fuel to start turning to goo (polymerising) in the tank, but its combustion properties will begin to deteriorate as soon as you put it in a vented container (the fuel tank) due to evaporation of the lighter components.

I made the mistake of having only diesel cars and we are in a drought so the lawnmower doesn't use enough to get rid of the old premix so I give it to a friend who has a petrol car. We have great petrol here in Australia compared to the horror stories I hear from the USA and the UK, but I still avoid using anything over a month old in my trials bikes. You will soon find out if the fuel is too old or not when you go for a ride. I value my riding time highly enough that I don't want to risk having any bike problems when I'm out for a ride. For the relatively low cost of using fresh fuel, it's an easy decision. Good petrol here is about $AU1.50 per litre

same here

That gusset in front of the rear upright must be pretty close to the rear end of the main chamber of the exhaust

When I bought Boyesen reeds for TY175s and TY250s in the 2000s, the instructions said to fit them without the Yamaha limit plates. Are you saying that at some point in time, the limit plates were intended to be retained when you fitted Boyesen reeds?

Flywheel may have moved on crankshaft, putting timing out

One No 2 is on the right between the swingarm and the brake plate. The other No 2 is on the left between the swingarm and the LH wheel bearing. The axle washer goes between the axle nut and the snail cam/axle puller. Yes the drawing is terrible and doesn't even show the snail cams

at work having morning smoko

A friend of mine is selling a longride kit for your bike, but it's in Australia https://trials.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6andt=11755

https://www.corrosion-doctors.org/MatSelect/corrtitanium.htm

I see that the latest Honda road-registerable enduro bike has a titanium fuel tank, which is Honda's solution for meeting (evaporative) emissions standards

To avoid side loading on the seals, shockies need to rotate freely on the mount as the swingarm oscillates and with the old all-rubber mounts, some people mounted the FALCONS with the rubber clamped tight by the fixing. They also chewed out fairly rapidly, causing slack. They also were difficult to resize to suit larger mounting pins. Yamahas are OK because they are all 12mm pins but Kawasakis and OSSAs have 12mm pins at the bottom and bigger mounting pins at the upper ends. The new FALCON mounts allow the shock to rotate freely on the mounts because the fixing clamps the aluminium bush. Yes I also had to clean the gunge and rust off my pins to make the aluminium bushes slide on.

I just bought some new Falcons too and am very impressed with the revised (improved) mounting system they have now

I find that even semi synthetic allows spooge to build up in the muffler and the ring grooves gum up. I'm thinking of going to mineral oil, if it is still available

or vice-versa. In my experience with OUR car petrol (pump gas) it starts smelling bad sooner in a metal container (metal drum, metal fuel tank)

I'll have a look at mine and see if says anything useful on the coil