copemech

Looks to me like Clive is still using the Sherco as the demo bike. At least he did not wear the green Gumby suit!

Many motors run the valves a bit loose in the guides it seems. Although this may defeat conventional wisdom to an extent and vary with design. Thi primary issue is still the valve sealing upon the seat area, and if this is still good(seats and valves sealing surface not worn) , a bit of tick may be dismissed. Do you have specs and limits? It takes a REAL specialty shop to do these things as far as renewal goes, not amature work, probably similar to the Honda heads, but may still cost nearly as much as new!

I had one break on my '05 bike, but I mainly attribute it to probably taking a few crashes prior. One never knows, but it can indeed spoil a day out. Mine gave way first kick ov the day before a trial, but luckily there was a dealer at the trial who had one of the levers. Otherwise I would have been done before I started! I still think a well positioned bike and a good full stroke is the best way to wake them up. A limp kick may kick back, and if your bars are turned right, may well hurt a knee(ouch)! Been there! And a bit less timing advance helps a lot!

I doubt that , really! The (lumpy) 4T's have their advantages and disadvantages. Ask Caby, Bou, Fuji, Lampkin or even Ray Peters!

I seem to notice lots riding with the NAU helmets these days.. not too pricey either. Any here got them?

I got a chucle out of that! Even!

Not one, but two blips from Martin on that! You see him getting excited(edit, woody)! We should have sent him over just for the friday event! The more I watch the natural section vids, the better they get, there are a lot of little moves in there by some that are just great! Sections are tight, but tough!

I agree, as I cannot fathom why it would be so tough being an observer. Most observers in the sections I ride just simply say go, then carry on their conversations with others. Somewhere in the back of their heads they are still listning though! One S--T!=1 Two S--T!=2 Oh S--T!=5, and so it goes! At the end the punch my card, and I just ride off!

One cannot evaluate off this measure!

Unfortunately , that will not work here as the base gasket is nil and the head is o-ringed. I would guess that anything past .001-2 taken off the head surface on a platter or mill would also require the re-cutting of the o-ring grooves deeper to compensate. The squish band here is already narrow. Not much to play with. Ring up Paxau! He knows something!

Excellent! Good to give them boys something real to ride. From the clips, I would not complain about the tolerance of rollback/ hopback in the manmade section 15.

Andy must put the leftover beer to good use!

Whot they said, It's not returning fluid! Pushrod too tight or MC piston not returning fully to open the return port the likely culprits, next to blockage of the port!

Totally different motor! (Gasser on steroids) Quick change gearbox! Radical new stuff! This could get interisting!

Come on Marky Boy, after all, his name is Mark too, so hees not gay! Spit it out!

Sam, just how does all that happen?

The only thing I have heard was something about some of the top riders placing a strip of duct tape along the sides of the top panel to insure it did not become dislodged? I am not sure of any specifics, and do not have a bike to examine, but I think the top retention twistie on the lid is a Southco design.

I think as much as anything, you could attribute it to Cody. Seemed to me when I seen him in OK he has lost weight, and is in great shape. Someone said he has been on a different diet/ workout thing for a while now. Obviously he is riding well, great job!

That is really good!

There is a bit of art to all this. There is definatly an offset on these. The drive side spokes are 6mm longer than the brake side, and tire clearance is critical at down to about 10-12 mm per side. Even less for the kickstand spring. First off, if it came down to paying someone qualified to do it, I would. And when I had my rims anodized, I did, and the rear still came back all screwed up as they obviously did not take careful measurements of the offset to begin with. These things are a geometry lesson in themselves, and as best I can tell, come all jacked up from the factory. It all does work, and mayby there is some obscure reason for it all, but when you look at these things closely there are several factors that go into the mix. Firstly, the swingarm is not symmetrical. Secondly, I do not think the snailcam adjusters are either. Third, chain alignment is not straight. Fourth, stock rear wheel does not center up with center of bike when snailcams are adjusted equally. All my bikes have been this way, doubt it is an exception. Now, all said, either this thing comes back exactly as set from factory, and just put it all back, or you are giong to have some tweaking to do. As I had no choice, because the tire rubbed, I just started over out of neccessity. Trying to find the best balance between all evils here, I tried to find the best balance between chain alignment and center of tire, which means I run my jitsie snailcams about two notches higher on the brake side so the bike tracks straighter and the rear wheel is aligned with the chassis, then centered the tire between the swingarm sides by backing off one side of spokes and pulling up the other. All said, lots of tweaking and old fashoined eye balling so things track as straight as possible.

No, I do not think so. You are better advised to replace them periodically depending upon just how much you ride(or crash).

What was the topic? Oh yes, the standard Hemi at 372 HP will move along quite nicely! Not sure they have them in the average rental fleets, but even the little V 6 is brisk at 250! Still get 25 mpg on the road!! Sweet!

Yes, ATF for a car is ok(really do not know what other sort of ATF exhists), although being a thinner fluid, it will likely make the clutch a bit mor grabby/quicker, yet some may prefer that for quick pops and such. For your average rider, I might not recommend the ATF, even though many Beta and Gasser riders use it, in a Sherco the 10-40 or regular motorcycle lite gear oil seems to give a smoother clutch apply. I have experimented a bit over the years, but tend to stick with the synthetic high quality ATF or motor oils, not just run of mill junk for cheapness.. I must run the lighter atf in my current setup of light clutch(-2 springs) but it works and does not stick after sitting. Done the Dan Williams mods(Beta threads) and this helps too. All your choice really.

You kinda just do the math on all that, as it is all relative. A 9-48(actually 48/9) combo gives you a 5.33 overall ratio. A 9-52 gives you a 5.77 ratio (slower bike speed per revs) Although a smaller chain, and different teeth count, the relative size to the sprockets are similar and ratios still relative, yet a 11-58 set yeilds a ratio of 5.27, whis is a slightly lower ratio number(faster gearing) than the stocker. Lower final drive ratio, faster speed per rev. The front must rotate 5.27 times to get one rev out the rear! Seems opposite your intention. An 11-62 ratio with the smaller chain would give a 5.63 ratio, just in between the others.