copemech

You said it, I did not! I just blast the crapofit and lube everthin!

Sounds as though you are to normal range. The Pilot jet should be 33-36 and about 118-122 on the main I would think.

Best I recall it was the same diameter as the rods! Whatever that is!

Sounds like a good time, I hope the cost of beer there is not too high!

Stock jetting on the '08 was a 42 pilot, not sure about the main, probably around 125. The Float setting should be 19mm, or basically level with the bowl sealing surface when held at a 45 degree angle to just close the needle. I think! I think the airscrew setting sound about right, although they are sensitive and this can change with the day. PM Borus if need be to see, if he does not pick up on this thread! Wayne had the '08, then went to the PMS(note new slang) carb off the '09, but no mention of any great changes in jetting or level setting, as the new one just has a deeper bowl and stuff to go along. He tried the 45 pilot , but I think he went back to the 42/

You just have to wait, again, longer! The newest thing out is Baldilocks on a 280, we want the piccies before the crash sessions!

To some extent we have run the 4 spring setup for some years, primarily in the youth and womens bikes like the 125's. I do recall trying it in the '03 125, yet the pull was almost rediculously light and gave poor feedback due to the "float" effect of the thicker oil so I put it back to normal. This bike had the short length levers which have an advantage as compared to the 'mids" in pivot length. I still think there was a change in the spring rates from the factory in the later bikes, wanting a better bite for the upper class riders. I know there were other clutch mods for them at the time as well to make them quicker to bite! Not sure it is all spring? You see, there still needs to be a definate full pop to perform any advanced maneuvers such as a zap and it needs to happen NOW! Even fully revved in third gear! NOW! Of course, if you never need it it matters little, you will never slip it enough to do any harm through heat or wear. Seems we did have a local expert who burnt his up after a year on the 4 spring setup. Not sure which oil he was running though. For me, I could probably run for years with no problems?

Lucky sh#6! Even if I made the trip, I would have to seek our some fellow riders most likely, cannot just go shopping with wifey for that long, just too old and irritable now. I've seen the opera house on the tele, all bout it including its construction details, friggin loverly, lets go ride! And find a pub!

Hummm, that is an idea too!

I have been running some experiments with the clutch thing. Not totally sure about any of it, but it does seem to me that something changed in the bikes other than the levers come around the '06 models, as many others have seemed to note the clutches being a bit too grabby and quick off new. Not sure exactly but I think the springs have changed. Possibly even the plates? Anyway, lately I have been running the '07 bike with the -2 setup, and light oil. Remove two opposing springs and bolts. I am on the Merc fully synthetic ATF, good stuff for sure as properties go. All I can say is that it is DIFFERENT! For sure! Lever pull is proportunatly light by 1/3 with less build pressure required to make things move you actually need to readjust the lever a bit. No slippage in normal trials gears, full bite does not come till late in the travel though, much like a gasgas clutch on a new one. Just a toutch will give a bit of rev and pop! Better progression and a wider range of feel, yet at the same time the feel seems to vary just a bit. You are basically riding on the fluid here! Yes , you can make it slip on a full rev and dump in 4th or 5th, but so will a standard bike on the thicker oils. I am in a bit of a connundrum about this whole thing at present, yet it does seem to work. My poor clutch finger likes it, the bike does not seem to care, and the plates seem far less sticky after sitting! Still working on springs! It is all on the edge, not recommended to the experts!

You would need the flywheel puller tool, not costly. More later!Timing setup A good 3/8 drive rattle gun is preferred, as a large 1/2 drive is a bit much unless extreme care is taken. Link to old thread pic from '07. Pic illustrates the backing plate rotated counter clockwise approx 4mm from the satandard factory setting where the "tic" mark aligns with the right edge of the casting webb. I normally use the "cheat" method for flywheel removal and installation. Using a dremel tool, scribe an alignment mark on the crankshaft end and the flywheel retaining nut to be used as a torque reference upon reassembly. You know they are right from the factory as the Spanyards always build good things! Remove the nut with a rattlegun and set aside. Using a felt tip marker, make a short line along the outer radius of the flywheel where it aligns with the case. This may be used later to establish that the flywheel has been fully seated into position upon reinstallation. Fully engage outer(fine)threads of puller into flywheel, then seat center screw against crankshaft. Using rattlegun in forward (right)direction against center screw, flywheel should pop loose from tapered shaft fairly easily. If not, a fair blow on the head of the forcing screw should break loose the taper holding the flywheel. Note that both the plastic cover and the flywheel may almost always be removed with a bit of manipulation of the gear lever. May require placing bike into neutral, then fully depressing lever down into first gear and holding fully down while flexing lever outward just a bit. Set aside flywheel and inspect for proper position of alignment keyway in crankchaft. It should stay put normally. You may use the kick lever to rotate to "up" position. This may help later when reinstalling flywheel. The keyway IS you locating device. If your cover has been leaking mud, dirt and water, you may find things rather nasty in there. Might be a good time to clean things up well and and apply some protectant such as WD40 or Tri-flow, LPS #2 works well. Avoid brake cleaner in this area as it will take the paint finish off the motor case. After finding the "tic" mark, loosten the three backing plate screws and make your adjustment. Re torque screws just hand tight as you do not want to strip them. Insure tapers on crank and flywheel are clean and dry. With flywheel oriented with keyway slot "up" in one hand and the dreaded shift lever in the other, you must now manipulate the flywheel back into position. Once past the lever, you will likely need to rotate the flywheel back and fourth a bit untill you feel the key align and the flywheel seat fully on the tapered shaft. Do not force things as you could dislodge the keyway. Once seated properly, your outer reference mark should line up properly and the flywheel should rotate with no wobble turning by hand you will feel it working against the engine compression as things are now rotating again as one. Reinstall large nut and snug by hand to hold things secure. You can then use the kicker to rotate the motor to once again insure that everything is rotating straight and freely prior to re torqing the nut. I would estimate it would be about 1/2 to 1 turn shy of your original scribed alignment marks at this point. Then using rattle gun and socket, carefully tighten the nut to its original position or just ever so slightly beyond. Stop and check a couple of times along the way to be sure you do not over do it. The last thing you want is to strip something now! If there was evidence that your plastic cover was holding water and dirt causing corrosion, now would be a good time to drill a 2mm hole in the center bottom of it. This allows anything that might get in, to get out, including moisture to vent. Having owned a few, none were ever watertight untill my current '07. The rest were far better off with the vent hole. Grab your lever again and reinstall cover. Always lube your screws with a bit of grease or anti-sieze on the threads!(as well as the rest of the bike) Fact is, I have tried to give great detail and precaution here for those who might be a bit mechanically challenged or inexperienced. It would probably take me longer to read this than to actually perform the act. The entire thing can be done in just a few minutes, barring the cleaning that may be neccessary. There is enough detail that you could print this off and hand it to your local plumber to do if you are unsure or ill equipped. Find an experienced buddy! If you do this by hand method, you will need to make some type of flywheel holder to hold things while you pull torque on the big nut, which is around 60-72 ft/lb. I have done a fair amount of experimentation with the timing settings on both 2.5 and 2.9 bikes and the results are basically the same for both. If you only move the plate say 2mm toward the retard you will likely tell no difference, going back 6mm seems to be the maximum that the bike still runs correctly, and a minus 3-4 mm range would be your tradeoff. I think my current 2.9 is at a -5mm right now. Quite smooth when combined with the Boyesen reeds and proper jetting using stock gearing. Mind youI am lightweight at about 175lbs, and the 2.9 has no problem. Not sure just how many stone that is?

To be honest, I always try to avoid Wal-marts, and major cities witheir associated corruption! As it seems, there is not really a lot between Florida and Texas, I would have recommended a stop by TTC in TN for a ride there now! Rlracer is always ready to ride in Tulsa, or there is a great group just outside Wichita Ks that would love to see you, and you can camp as long as you like, beauty! Worth the time!

The rocks WILL challenge your skills! As we transition here between types, the difference will totally screw you up! End of story, THE ROCKS WILL WIN!

Hey there Ralphy, I do not disagree with you on the throttle thing, ran that way for a few, yet I have come to apply just a bit of light oil(usually old tranny fluid) to the throttle tube to keep things smoother, as even dry you will get some dirt. I run a very close fit with the bar ends too, with the ends of the Renthal grips gently ground out with the dremel tool sander. Occasional cleaning is still a must, but I can go months if I do not drop it in the sand!

Remind you that the timing change and slow throttle are first, did you do any of that?

Sounds a bit rich, what year bike? Which carby? Have you checked the float levels?

Wtf is tqf?

No difference in flywheel. Just bore and porting really.

Gee, I wonder how you know that? How you doing mate/ long time no see! Are you tuning up the gassers again ? Maybe a SHERCO! Best to all, MC ps- Did you get a proper pic of the one I sent Dabster, Alexz in the valley of eden?

Probably not as bad as some, but still beware, where are you going? Do you need a few semi-automatic weapons to take home? Chinese AK-47's are going for around $500 now as I hear. I have one ore two new ones somewhere?

Was the '02's! Had a tall first and maybe second gear. Advanced timing on a 2.9, very aggressive!

I seem to recall riding a 2000 model 2.5 that was very soft with the power. Much gentler than my '01 2.9 at the time.

Thistle's list reminded me that I seem to have forgotton my old trusty Honda 305 Scrambler! It was what, a 65-69? something that had been refurbed to mid 70's, real beauty with gloss black laquer and pinstripes! No muffler installed, just a couple of twisty bafflethings, made LOTS of noise! Remember I always had to cut it off and coast from at least 3 houses down from the HS girlfriends house at 2 am, or it would wake her dad and get me shot as she snuck out! Now THAT was trials on a Honda!

PA is mking his rounds in good standings it seems!

Greg, To be honest with you, you are on untreaded ground with this Bliss modded thing with the OKO. I do seem to recall a hot start air bypass valve available in the Sherco mod kit for the '05's but a bit unsure. Similar to the Beta's I thonk! The current hot setup seems to be the SPS carb from the factory. That is all I can tell you.