copemech

My '05 was quite perky, had to soften it a bit, but still the fav I think, rest were 2.9!

Oh well, at least you spanked Craigs butt! Good job Ringmaster! Too bad we could not pry a bit of dosh from his dying fingers! Could have used it for something good! Congrats to the Sherco boys! Top three trialscross! Wow!

Many will argue the point, but i like things CLEAN, specially when I must do maintenance. Therefore, on the Sherco I will pull the mudguard and tank, remove the air filter for inspection and plug the hole with a closed cell foam block, plug exhaust and fuel line then pressure wash using soap first then blast the the crapofit! Everything gets clean, although there a few areas that you do not want to blow water into and be careful such as rear linkage, steering head, mag cover. Too much pressure is not good! I blast the chain clean with the hot water w/ turning. Wash mudguard and tank separately. Bike back home on stand, blow out excess water from everything and apply WD or tri-flow to everything that(moves) needs it, including all spoke nipples and chain, polish exhaust, check tightness on items and fix anything that is even questionable. Wipe down all other surfaces with a rag with the WD and spot treat anything that looks like it needs it. Pull mag cover to insure dryness and or clean and treat. With everything good and clean, I can give things a close look. At least every other trial, depending. Takes about an hour plus any needed repairs od adjustments. Minor issues may or may not be diferred untill major maintenance intervals when you do things like re-pack all your bearings and such, yet if you do attend to minor issues in a progressive sense, you have fewer added problems and things to deal with along the line. Things that come to mind, such as loose levers(bushings), worn grips, dirty throttles, bent bars can really add up and detract from your good riding time. Just make a point to do a bit at a time progressively and do not let things run down. As a Happy bike will usually get you a lot further down the line. My thoughts,

Pie chart trialslated to dollars, at a conservative rate of an average 100 riders per day over last years series and the $100 per day rider fee only. No minders, no late! total 60000 Awards 11,000 Clubs 25,200 Meeting 11,400 Scoring/Sporting 9,000 Business 7,800 There were two clubs that presented this year. Six events over two weekends. Next year will be four for eight. Surely the AMA's cut is in there somewhere for insurance. Perhaps that is just Business. Thoughts anyone!

I guess that means they did not finish anything but the bottle! Oh well.

Na, nothing like that there Zipster. You see, when you have worked in a shop full of mechanics for thirty something years you just don't get too excited about that! Now if the rest would just lay off the rubber gloves and grease we could resume normality!

That is a good thing Al, you see, I never get to have any fun anymore, I have to have all this crap in certified and warrantable condition and all that. Of course, with the auto industry in turmoil and all that, we may get back to some good old fashoned "Obama Riggin" here before long! We can fix the world! With enough money!

True, and reduces kickback when starting!

Mark the clutch hub retainer nut so you may re-torque to proper position(rattlegun 3/8 drive preferred or you will need a clutch holder) and carefully note how the kick lever return spring is wound. That is all I recall as I have had beer since the last one I had apart! Oh, note shim washers and bearings on clutch and don't tear the case gasket, piece of cake!

Airborne acrobatics of Boston College Cheerleaders! Yea!

The factory says 10-40 gear oil or equal, this gets confusing though, in the US we use Maxima MTL 75, as with many oils for bikes, uses a different viscosity scale.

Biff recently did that with your piccy! Now if we only had one from the rear? ^_^

They are still ripping our shorts off on diesel at a dollar more than regular gas. Ang I seen a sign todat that was .75 higher for premium than the regular. It has just gone nuts, and they will still gouge you whenever possible! Diesel was always the same or less than gas up untill the recent times, and still accounts for the cost of transport of goods. A number of other rip offs still occuring with fuel surcharges that do not apply yet are still intact! I seen that last week on a tow bill for a car, $10 surcharge on a three mile tow! Yes, fuel costs need to stabilize, yet it becomes very obvious there are some real numbnuts running this game. Kinda funny though, has the Arabs all screwed up now.

There are a number of "tweaks" to make them more gentile. The 2.5 is still a high performance bike to begin with and responsive. Only YOUR riding level will determine the limits. As stated, if you feel it too sensitive on basic things like no clutch figure eights, try the slow throttle for better feel. Cost little. Slowing the timing by 5-6mm on the backing plate will soften the power. Cost nothing if you have the tools. The Boyesen reeds will Smooth the power off the bottom. Only a few quid plus some work. And lastly, a 44T rear gear of a 1.25 will slow how far yoou are propelled by the bike in a given gear. A 9T on the front will give double the effect and before long you are revving like a 125 and going nowhere! You can really turn that bike into a tractoring pig if it suits you. Learning proper throttle and clutch control, priceless! Try using second gear in slippery stuff and cambers, forces you to use the clutch for control and feel, just set the throttle?

They basically have a couple of sawtooth type gears that must engage as they cam in. On occasion they may not fully engage, depentant upon position and specially if you are too light on the foot, yet it just clashes sometimes. Doubt there is much wrong unless it is constant, then gears teeth could be rounded I suppose.

Get off your but and try some of this!tickle! here Makes a trials machine near useless!

Agree a standard 250 should be fine, use a slow throttle if you are unsure and be sure you have a good working clutch ald lever in proper adjustment, as it is your lifeline to application of power!

Again, Al makes good points from(he,he) Lots of experience screwing with things! Back to pure basics: Isolate the problem, insure things are tight, and fact is that a good sealer can work wonders on this type of thing!

Not an HK for sure, but how do you come to need one? And if you do, there is probably more!

The topic title alone scared me!

So there you have no answers, yet I can tell you it will still feel like a gasser clutch, and not what you are accustomed, not bad, just different! I think you are still in Gasser Shock! And will not recover(like me) untill you get back on a conventional bike! You are just too old and set(once again like me) although I will not knock you for trying! It is all good!

A number of things come to mind here, firstly they seldom leak! Second, I presume you are referring to gearbox oil? Third, have you checked all the bolts for torque? As I seem to recall bolts from the mag side under the flywheel, this may be necc. To pinpoint a leak, we often use a floroescent dye added to the oil to reveal casting pinholes and such which could be sealed externally! Takes a black light to spot them! This is a process, yet you must understand that a gasket may not fix it! You must KNOW for sure what you are fixing! Even a small crack can be near invisable to the eye! Tread lightly and do not jump to conclusions! You could perform a lot of work for nothing, my experience!

Another good job cman!

Craig, you are still skating the issue! You really need to "man up" here! Or you ain't chicken salad, you're just chicken s--t! I could care less if the money gets donated or what, choice of the winner! Just do it!

Putting my feet down too much! Still like a dog, like to leave my mark in a section!