copemech

So, if I understand, Tony is a ex RAF pilot ov vintage Scottish background living in AZ and riding AHRMA? Is that correct?

Sagan is my fav as well, they have re- run his series over here recently. What a pleasure to see it again! No other voice quite like that one, and the graphics were/ and still are SOO good!

Yea, That's just wrong!

The technology is the same, just tuned differently for torque. A longer large dia. headpipe, a mid box for expansion, and a muff. Hope that helps!

Now that is the real Martin, pretty good at the BS if you ask me! He is a big fellow, in many ways! Best to you!

Although there have been few other comments from other knowledgeable folk on this thread, whether to agree or disagree with the specs I laid out here, the referance charts seemed to verify them, and if indeed they have been blessed by the folks at RYP then , once again I would think they would be safe specs for all if the hardware is in good condition. There is obviousy a problem if your stuff is worn out and strips out! As in stripping out your crank threads due to previous overstress! Yet this is seldom an issue. I always try to err on the safe side though! Once again I must state that even though my experience is somewhat vast, even in overhauling and repairing 2T race motors(mostly MX), I have never had reason to split the Sherco myself, yet it is very straightforward and bulletproof if you take care of it, and that says a lot overwhat is now a half dozen bikes that I have owned. I did replace a clutch, once! And you can say all you want about them Gassers, but I had to help a fellow a while back after his starter gear broke. What a CF of bits to just get the clutch side apart and back together! I'll not put up with that! It is a light bike, but! Anyway, in gathering concencus on this issue, I do find a need to compile the specs all in one spot. Maybe I should recommend it to RYP as an addendum to their already great list of helpful stuff! Or a stickie from Andy! Comments welcomed!

U. F. O. ?. No, thats just Dabster out for a spin in the Mont!

I don't really think they give us a choice here in a large metro area anymore. I think it is all "oxigenated"(% alcohol) due to some EPA regs. I ran Avgas for several years and still like it. Very clean, low residue fallout over time and seems stable for weeks on end. Very little odor. I hate pump gas odor! The problem I ran into seems to be related to the high temps here. Seems Avgas is designed to atomize better at cooler temps(in flight) and I have had a number of hot restart problems, sort of relate it to a vaporlock condition, or the fuel in the bowl boiling off with the heat. When it is 90-100F here, the last thing you want to do is be sitting there kicking the s#it out of the bike at every section!

Sorry, I just seen this, but my math suggests 5000cc of petrol / 80 cc= 62.5 cc of oil per 5 L!

Good show, you guys need to throw up some tape now to see just how it can change things!

Neo, I have never had to change one, yet the same mystery has puzzled me! It only makes logical sense that the shock end must unscrew from the body which would require a strap wrench or something to hold the body while using a rod as a lever through the eye to turn it. Makes sense, but I have not tried it and have no idea how much torque would be required even if I am correct! Hopefully some others can help shed some light on this!

Nothing wrong with a good 2000 model! Sweet bike! And NO, I may not, but I do encourage all to support your local dealers and RYP if you do not have someone local that you know and trust. Most of these guys work their tails off. That goes for all brands, as they are all good! I just try to point folks in the right direction! BTW, I was scorned by wifey last night for getting home late! When I told her I just needed to enjoy some quiet time after work looking up and trying to verify a few torque specs for Zippy, she totally did'nt understand! Oh well! You see I also have all these reference charts for comparitive bolt specs and such. Nevermind, just go with those and you should be fine!

That's great, unfortunatly I will have to tell them to ban you untill you buy some parts!

Howard Wallace, send him a PM

You see, Zipper, there is secret code embedded in the early parts books. It is all there but you have to know how to read it. I'm serious, I would verify the numbers as these are what my computed conversions came up with. is Howard around? All sound about right though!

I told you Rosey was a bright lad, yes, I believe there was a similar study done sometime back by one young Bechard lad that yielded similar results. Bit of a science project, yet not sure how scientificly it was done. Yet I tend to agree with the results!

Coming off a 2.9, the 3.2 would be the better performer!

Gee Zipper, let's see, would you like all that on NM, Ft/lb, or In/lb? How shouyld I know, I just buy a new one every year or two? AND, as you probably don't have the proper holding fixtures for the crank and clutch you will have a difficult time holding anything so you should have used a dremel with a mini cutoff wheel to mark the nuts and shafts so you can just use a 3/8 impact to zip them off and back on to where they were or slightly beyond on the crank and clutch and just tighten the case bolts with a 1/4in ratchet. Yet I digress, and did my best to look up this crap. Just for you! Flywheel nut and primary drive gear 73.2ft/lb Clutch nut 45ft/lb Case bolts(6mm), cyl head, 88in/lb Cyl base nuts(8mm) 195in/lb-16ft/lb Clutch cover/ water pump cover(5mm)bolts 48-55 in/lb Plastic ignition cover, just past snug! I would add that along with crank bearings and seals, you should inspect the water pump shaft and replace the shaft if grooved, along with the seals. Anyway, that is what I came up with, now you can call RYP to verify when you order your parts and correct me if I am incorrect!

I'm in for an action flick! Probably not an ounc of fur to be traded between them less one!! Bad part is when the bear got it's throat cut! Kep making gurgling noise it did! Poor thin! Bloody mess it was~!

On the dellorto, 36 pilot 118-120 main 3rd groove down needle Ck o-ring on brass tube(see other post) No immediate need to change reeds, I like the Boyesens, smoother off the bottom 2-3 turns out on the screw, adj as ness. Try a BP5EVX gapped at .027, bit easier starting anl better low rev performance for both bikes, or you can go with the irridium, but I would keep the gap back to .025 as it is a resistor plug. 80:1 full synthetic Maxima K2 works for the US guys, your mileage may vary. I ran the Kiehin briefly on the '07, but went back. They are powerfun, yet can be finicky! 45/125 on the jets seems a good start, others may differ JJH needle in mid groove 2-3 turns on the screw They may all be a pig to start when the temps are down. One old trick is to tip the bike fully over on its left side to the ground. This (hopefully) spills a bit of fuel into the carb helping to prime things. Hope that helps!

Just because it has greater resistance to detonation(higher octane) does not neccessarily mean that it will run better or perform well in a motor not designed to use it! It may actually cost you power as it does not ignite or burn as redily under those circumstances. It may smooth your motor because of power loss though! Lead(TEL) does nothing for a 2T except possibly help foul sparkies with residue! And create more on the piston! And in the exhaust! "seriously tho, techron doesnt really clean up on carbon emissions and as for eradacating carbon build up........nothing will beat a scraper and cleaning fluid" It has been proven to work in auto engines for years now, go scrape the valves and pistons on your car!

The factory spec is 10-40 gear oil! It will make for a less grabby clutch. All depends on what you want!

It is listed on the RYP sist under service manuals and other info: Oil types and levels for the 2006 trials models Paioli front forks Oil level on right leg: 60mm With forks at bottom Quantity: 370 +/- 4cc Oil level on left leg: 110mm With forks at bottom and without spring Quantity: 385+/- 4 cc Oil type Idemitsu O J RACING TYPE 01 Viscosity at 40

Well, Mr (i change my underpants every day at noon so i don't get skidmarks), since you have done it soo many times, WTF do you do? Pump THIS for about 40 min.! I'm trying to give this guy a clue here! PS, He is a friggin BETA driving convert(same forks)and wears itialian undies now! Ha!

Sounds like some fun!