copemech

There are lots of published specs in there if you keep digging, gotta look in the parts books as well. You can get into a very grey area, do a google search on standard metric torque values in aluminum. Then add in you variable of lubricated threads which may allow a deduction of between 10 and 20% normally and you will find your answer. For the most part, your small critical 5,6 and 8 stuff will be rated at 60,96 and 192 lb/in accordingly, adjust from there. Larger stuff in the 10-12mm range is more tolerant and applies less to this application. Some of it you are not going to get a torque wrench on anyway, so it matters not, common sense must prevail. If you think I put a calibrated wrench on every nut and bolt I turn for a living, you are incorrect, feel is as important as anything, and something that must be developed with time and experience. An example might be your suspension linkage.You just gotta get a wrench in there and tighten stuff by hand. Tight is tight and less is less. Use good judgment. Remember things like the fork tubes clamps are a "pinch " bolt. You can drop(raise) the tubes about 10mm in the clamps, I think there are still lines scribed in the tubes, however I do not drop mine. Point being, a "pinch "bolt just needs to be snugged tight by hand, as there is no hard stop and you do not want to collapse the pinch built in the clamps exceeding their design. Folding hand allen set used here with little leverage.

Never know when a tab may break off a beer can, then you are equipped!

Follow linkey to "Service Info" tab, you will find a lot of good reading. And if you know much about bikes, the basics of how to tighten a 5,6,8,10mm bolt are the same, nothing special here. HOWEVER! If you are going to take the time to properly prep the bike, I suggest you also take the time to apply anti-sieze or some type anti corrosion treatment to every bolt you toutch as it will pay in the long run. Pack the steering head bearings and grease the axle shafts

That's the ones!

Ha! I still have my 15 or so year old 4T Ryobi wacker! A real torque pig! Did not run it this year after the new lightweight purchase, it puts my arms in spasms after the vibration and the weight. Valves? Do they have Valves? The next valve for that thing is going to be the dump valve! It has served its duty!

As stated, and a knife(or anything else) is not worth beans if you cannot use it! That one is a workhorse, use and enjoy it to the limit! That is probably why it found you.

As stated, they can service the shock and provide springs based upon your weight, highly recommended and done by Ohlins service tech. A service is not a bad thing, yet seems never done until something breaks or leaks for most, as yours is not really that old.

Osiris, you need the bike disassembled and put in several packages, that is a pain in the ass and requires special boxing and careful packing. A person could be there all day! Many dealers do not profit enough on a bike sale to perform that type of service, no less the risk of lost or missing packages and an unhappy buyer who does not want to accept the liability! Not worth the risk! Sounds as though you need to make a drive! Your English is fair, seems his is worse! Best to you,

If the noise is not severe, run it! Some noise is normal! If it blows up, the problem will be easy to find!

No, this was a small engine cutaway display by the Mfg. highlighting their bearings and plating features to enhance durability. I am sure they have gone to the 50:1 mix for EPA concerns, however with good oil a non issue it seems. The bottle I got did not state if it was full or a blend of synthetic, but I think the additives are likely more important as long as a high quality base stock is used if you know what I mean. As they brand their own oil, not sure who makes it for them?

Not sure there is any choice on the new bikes, as the top if the U shaped intake tube is set in the airbox(tank)!

And I doubt you will due to liability. Even my new Echo Pro weed wacker(strimmer) came with a 50:1 mix pack. Now these things can run near wide open for their duration. I did see something posted on display by the Mfg. stating that they were rated at only 200 hours life expectancy. Does not sound like much, but put into perspective is a lot better than I ever got out of a 125 MX bike back in the day at 32:1. I prolly ran the thing for 5 hrs or so this year as well. How many years is that? I doubt my water cooled 2T trials is that highly stressed going put-put-put with an occasional rev. Most the oil will lay up in the bottom and give an occasional splash!

I had a girlfriend once with a modified rack, bit over the standard size, yet nice and firm!

Well, now that you mention it, if you have no idea where the jetting is currently, it would be a good start! My "07 2.9 came with a #30 pilot that was soo lean it would not lift the front wheel! With the stock Dellorto, I figure you should be at a 36/ 118(120) on the pilot/main jets, with the main being a bit less critical. And since it seems you have not done it, you now get to learn to fight getting the intake pipe and adapter all fit nicely back in place on the carb, what a joy! Good luck!

A 250 is hard to find here, and I got a "12 250 because I prefer it over my 2.9 prior, less aggressive and easier to ride, good for us punters, maybe not for better riders, yet I like mine just fine. I have not messed about with the ignition timing on this bike, yet It seems set docile, one might advance it a bit for more aggressive power, go slow, a mm or two on the plate rotation, prolly no more than 3-4mm max. as you may then get into the kickback and easy stalling range.

Two hillbillies walk into a restaurant. While having a bite to eat, they talk about their moonshine operation. Suddenly, a woman at a nearby table, who is eating a sandwich, begins to cough. After a minute or so, it becomes apparent that she is in real distress. One of the hillbillies looks at her and says, Kin ya swallar?' The woman shakes her head no. Then he asks, 'Kin ya breathe?' The woman begins to turn blue, and shakes her head no. The hillbilly walks over to the woman, lifts up her dress, yanks down her drawers, and quickly gives her right butt cheek a lick with his tongue. The woman is so shocked that she has a violent spasm, and the obstruction flies out of her mouth.As she begins to breathe again, the Hillbilly walks slowly back to his table. His partner says, 'Ya know, I'd heerd of that there 'Hind Lick Maneuver' but I ain't niver seed nobody do it!

If your coil has only one small wire, then the coil metal frame must be properly earthed to the frame mounting point. Same for a condenser depending upon type and location.

Andy, I figured it out!!!! Bou won!

Get a pint bottle water and try the water trick first. I usually run up to 5th gear and do 3-4 god stop attempts to heat the rotor, then douse it ti steam off, repeat a few times then let cool to normal. If the lever feels firm initially, yet there is still some compressibility, this is not an indication of a problem. All brakes have some.

One would want to inspect the engine mounts and skidplate bolts for vibration type noise, all must be tight! Piston rattle, well a bit is ok for most, lower revs and tickover , but if really bad something may need done. Also ck the crank for up down movement on the bearings by lifting the flywheel, pull sparkie and ck for smooth rotation in the bearings. Many 125,s have had the p*** run out of them by a youth rider, and a replate on the bore, new piston and lower bearings would not be uncommon for a now 8 year old bike.

Trials is not easy, nor is it necessarily hard, as all ride at their own level of comfort and/ or difficulty! You do not have to ride anything you do not want/like, yet you may decide to develop or improve your skills over time and push your limits against the terrain.

Having now read Dadof2's ref article, this reminds me why I do not like 2T aircraft at any ratio! This stuff is ugly enough on the ground, god knows I have had a few bad experiences at speed!

There is little noticeable difference to most folk it seems, at that would be at high revs. Many just remove the switch, including myself.

Not having read your reference, I might assume this still required some hard running as compared to an average putt-putt trials bike. I do believe that many Mfg. recommendations are quite on the conservative side out of necessity and due to unknown factors such as mineral, semi or full synthetic. Seems some still swear by the semi, and as far as I know, the Yamaha 2T Racing is still popular and the same(made) as Torco brand(rebranded). It works and I have used it without issue. Honestly, I consider myself conservative on oil issues, as there are a ton of companies pushing their product, and most at premium price for 2T racing. I think much of this is marketing, and I have no way of knowing which is best, so must rely on track records it seems. And therefore, I have mostly stuck with the Maxima product here based upon near 15 years track record of our Sherco importer, and at the same 80:1 ratio as used by our team riders. I have run them hard, really hard, without issue. Not sure I am comfortable with our fuel at 10% alcohol, with water included. In the automotive world, I am still conservative, motto here is best oil is clean oil. We have cars running 200K miles and more on mineral oil, is it really worth the added cost for synthetic, and mostly no increase in change interval? I am not sure, as it is prolly good oil but?