charliechitlins

Check the GG website. Great suspension setup article by Stoodley. That's quite a bit of sag in the rear. 2-2.5 is more like it. How much with no rider? You could have a shock problem. I weigh around 200 and almost never bottom my shock.

My new favorite glue. GOOP. Get it at Lowes/Home Depot

[ I do like Harley's but would never buy one i don't like their performance, price and i'm not ready for the pipe and slippers - that's my opionion. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Watch it there, mate! Pipe and slippers!?!? This Harley riders is strong and virile. I can push mine for miles!!!!!!!!

It's one of the occult mysteries of trials bikes. No trials bike ever said how many cc's it was. I wonder which was the worst offender. 200 Cota really a 175?

They look light in the front end.

And get a haircut, kid! Sorry...couldn't resist. I'm old, a parent and a schoolteacher.

When you tighten the adjuster (the lower thing that turns is the adjuster, the upper one locks it)look for that sweet spot where you have taken up all the play, but there is no binding in the steering. get to where you have JUST taken up the play and stop. Too tight and you could start weaving at 60mph.

I find Sherco clutches to be super easy to pull, but you could try removing springs. Start with 2, and remove ones that are right across from each other.

And those guys must train hard. They're 22 years old, 130 lbs. and strong as a horse.

Awright...it's not a great photo, but it is a rare moment of me looking like I know what the hell I'm doing, AND the visor is hiding the look of sheer terror on my face.

Your powdercoater must be $hit. I have had hundreds of parts powdercoated in the last 15 years with great results. I can change tires with irons, and it doesn't chip. I've never seen a paint that can do that.

You might want to check the ever-popular flywheel key. This would definitely affect starting and running, particularly at certain RPM.

When you clean the carb, make sure you hold the jets up to a light and look through them. Make sure your fuel is flowing freely: ---Fuel filter ---Float bowl ---Gas tank vent

BTW...you should sell that damn thing and get a trials bike!!

I've never heard of this with standard clutch plates. Just be-burr/smooth the "fingers" where they fit in the basket. There is something, though, that you have to do to "season" kevlar plates. I can't remember what...I've never used them.

Chrome or nickel? Rickmans were nickel. I don't know if they were electroplated or electro-less. And I don't think there was copper underneath. Possibly the latter because it gets in all the nooks and crannies better. You can save a lot of money on plating if you do your own polishing and buffing; that's where much of the expense comes in. If you tell the plater you'll do the prep and all he needs to do is dunk it in the nickel, you'll get a much different price. Then you'll probably have to buff after plating. It's a lot of work!

Pretty easy job...just nuts and bolts...but there is some stuff you need to know if you decide to do it yourself. Wristpins, for instance, can be tricky. I'm sure there are many on the list who can assist. I'm not too familiar with Betas, specifically, but I doubt you need to take the engine out to do a top end.

As long as it's flat, I suppose it'll work, it just seems like overkill. You could use titanium, too. Or gasket paper, which is impregnated with something that resists oil and coolant. If a cylinder protrudes into the cases, I have often just done away with the gasket and used silicone. This is on applications where there are no passages for oil or coolant, of course. The reason we need gaskets is to make up for inconsistencies in machining. If we could be sure that machined surfaces were *dead* flat, we wouldn't need gaskets. I have, in fact, lapped a head and cylinder together and run the engine without a head gasket. As for carbon/graphite in other gasket applications, I'm not too familiar with its properties, but It seems a bit hard. The job of a gasket is to be flexible and conform to a surface in order to make up for machining inconsistencies.

Terrible spelling. Could hardly read a word.

Try having the powdercoater mask the holes. If you don't trust them to do so, put bolts in them yourself. Or just tap the holes before putting a bolt in.

I never look at them to see if they discolor; I'd probably run into a tree. I just do it for about a minute. Sometimes 2 or 3 times. It works great. Some swear by dirty water. I used to keep a bottle stashed by a creek in my favorite riding spot in case I needed to quench. As for why it works...I don't know. Some think it does something to the pads, but I don't see it. I always pour water on the disk; and I doubt I'm washing anything off the pads. But it's hard to imagine it has anything to do with the hardness/temper of the disk because it's probably cast iron. Hmmmm........ Whatever it is, it works.

The only answer to "How many turns?" is "As many as it takes."

How much weight would a carbon fiber frame save? A couple years ago, I heard that Yamaha had a process to cast aluminum where air was drawn out of the mold and castings could be made the same strength with half the thickness/weight. This was supposed to shave 6lbs from their sportbike engine cases alone. Anybody ever hear if this went into effect? Would be cool for our frames and swingarms. Seems to me that several companies could shave weight by eliminating that annoying suspension linkage. In the meantime, I'm still filling my tires and Camelback with helium.

Welcome aboard. Where you from?