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Would bikes like Beamish Suzuki count ? ( British built frame & tank , assembled in Brighton ? ) or Yamaha HL500 ? ( assembled by NVT in the UK , with British built Frame )

Okay , so if Brexit was cancelled we could have a 2019 UK World Trial GP with free entry ? Because everything in the EU is wonderful { and free } ? maybe Greece could have a world trial ? with all the bail-out money they have got it could be sponsored so free entrance ?

nothing to do with Brexit, more likely these events have some financial support from local council / tourist board / local business's etc. which probably doesn't happen in the UK an element of money-grabbing is possible depending on who the organiser is ? but I wouldn't think must club type organisers would do this ? £30 entrance would probably put off any casual fans or newcomers , but maybe there isn't room at a UK venue for a large crowd, so this would be one way of keeping the audience at a manageable size ?

sorry if this is the wrong place to ask , but just gone to look at ORRe on here but its gone, replaced with a message. can anyone explain ?

Removing the Cush Drive can be done, some bikes have something similar on the clutch instead of the rear wheel, some bikes don't seem to have any Cush Drive on any part of the drivetrain I have an OSSA MAR with a Cush Drive on the Crankshaft { I have no idea why they fitted this ! } I think the general idea is to protect the Chain / Gearbox etc. from shocks , so it cant do any harm and may extend the life of these parts. the problem is when the Cush Drive wears you can end up with a wobbly sprocket etc. , if parts are easy to get & sensibly priced then probably easiest to leave as it is, if not then making it solid wont cause any major problems I would think up to you really, hope this helps

when I was looking for a replacement rear brake cable for the worn one on my MAR , all the replacement ones that I saw seemed to be made from thinner cable than the old one - they were the same thickness as the Universal Brake/Clutch cable kits that are available, but just not as thick a cable as the old one. anyway , I purchased and fitted one of these cables and it worked okay, but did seem to stretch/flex a bit in use. I wasn't really happy with it and ended up getting a Ford Transit Clutch cable with the threaded rod on one end and modified this to fit. the Transit cable I used is the same thickness as the old cable that was on the bike, and it does seem better at braking and resisting stretching / flexing now as has been said - good linings + a good cable + proper adjustment and the standard setup can work well , despite looking like it shouldn't work !

I am not familiar with the layout of those engines, you say you have a manual but not sure if its right for the engine , maybe try looking at an online parts diagram if you can find one have you got flywheel & clutch covers off to make sure everything is removed that needs removing ? gear box sprocket, gear lever , kick start lever etc. ? maybe a little circlip on one of the shafts ? sometimes clutch basket or the gear on the crank that drives it will need removing

I really hope this works out for you , and that you can still enjoy motorcycling through riding Trials in the future. I cant really add anything to what others have already said, other than - have you cleared this with your doctor ? wearing a crash helmet and possibly falling off and hitting your head 6 weeks after surgery may not be recommended while you are healing ( you know what doctors are like } good luck , and maybe post an update when you have had a go

thanks for this info, but I still don't see any victories in a major Trial or Championship mentioned ? the oil leak is no surprise though ! I will concede they look and sound okay , but not enough to justify a world record price for an old Twinshock , if I really wanted a 4 stroke Twinshock I would get a Honda

that's good advise , O rings come in different types of rubber and different thicknesses also, may only need a firmer compound or a fraction thicker material to make the difference, if your clutch cover just slips straight over the gearshaft with no resistance/friction then the O ring may be too thin even if its the right diameter , problem is the easily available O rings all seem to be soft cheap rubber and not as thick as you may need

If your Oil pump has been left on the engine and is still rotating with the engine running , yet has no oil passing through it , I wouldn't think this does the pump internals any good. I could be wrong but I would guess this would cause a lot of wear in the pump , I personally wouldn't trust the pump now and would use Premix or get a new pump if they are available

Hello, on my MAR there is a sort of - 'felt' washer on the gear lever shaft as well as the O ring , when both are in good condition the leakage is reduced , but not eliminated. Have looked at machining the cover to accept an oil seal but haven't got round to it as I think there isn't enough thickness of metal to remove to get to the size of hole needed for an oil seal ( I could be wrong ) I did think of moving the side stand from the left side to the right side to eliminate the oil drip when the bike is parked up ! At the moment I have given up on this annoying drip and just accept it as part of owning a 1970s Spanish bike Hope this is helpful

With some of the Classic Bike prices you do wonder if the market is being supported by enthusiasts or investor / speculator type people, or people who are a bit of both . { I hope it is enthusiasts } I can understand the interest & prices for - Goldstar, Vincent, Brough Superior, Indian, etc. as they were probably the best bikes in the era they were made, and won championships & medals, world records etc. But I am baffled by the prices for B.S.A. powered CCMs , especially the Trials model , did anybody ever win a major Trials event / championship on one of those ? I know the Moto Cross models never won a British or World championship { and got caught cheating with oversize engines at least once}

No idea what type of steel the Frame is made from , but if you look round the frame at all the other welded joints you can usually tell if it was manufactured with - MIG , TIG , ARC or Bronze Weld {you may have to clean off some paint to do this} if you have any doubts get an experienced Welder to look at the welds if it was made with MIG welds then repairs with MIG should be fine

Have to agree that asking prices are one thing , selling prices another . about once a year a 350 CCM will come on ebay at a ridiculous price , lots of watchers but no bidders nearly every time if you own a CCM ,you don't have it to ride, { it stays in the shed } - but you have to tell everyone that you own one and how much you think its worth

Yes, avoid if possible. if you do feel like buying some, get 2 sets and take the spares & some tools with you every time you ride ! I fitted some to a bike I was rebuilding , just leaning the bike against the workshop wall gently was enough to break them both, both broke in the workshop before I ever rode the bike. Domino, Magura , etc end up cheaper in the long run, haven't tried the cheaper forged ones that are available, maybe they are good too ?

unless you see a used Amal carb at a very cheap price I would be careful buying any second hand Amal concentric carb , they can wear rapidly and distort easily if overtightened. years before the Chinese starting making things from Crap metal , Amal had invented there own recipe for Crap metal and started making carbs from it

Hello, Steve Sell / Marlimar is in the UK {somewhere in the south I believe} Las time I called him {a couple of years ago} his phone no. was - 02392 593120 or 07800 778048 you may have to leave a message and be patient as I think he is a busy man, and Ossa spares probably not his main occupation, its worth the wait as he is helpful and very knowledgeable about these bikes. Inmotion also do some parts, both of them may well be at Telford off road show hope this helps

Hello, Yes unfortunately the kickstart procedure should be the same as an old Brit Bike - it has to be put in neutral for starting, BUT the clutch is probably stuck so although pulling in the clutch lever should stop the kick start turning over the engine it wont if clutch is stuck/dragging Have you started the engine and actually tried the gears/clutch ? I have an MAR and the clutch is always stuck every time I start the bike from cold, however after 5-10 minutes of running it frees off and works fine ( I have tried all the different gear oils / clutch plates / adjustment methods etc. but none have cured this so I just live with it )

I thought I had heard everything when it comes to people moaning about what someone else is doing, then I read this ! YES it is good manners to switch off your engine, BUT if your that worried about exhaust emissions then maybe you should ride with an Oxygen tank on your back {like a diver} the Ramblers , Greenpeace etc. would love to read this thread as it would just give them more ammunition to ban our hobby I also see the usual " ban 2 stroke" comments from 4 stroke bike owners , many of these 4 strokes burn as much oil as a 2 stroke and make 10 times the noise, { which offends me but I don't moan about it }

I have had a Pair of Betor rear shocks on an Ossa for 7 years +, {they were already second hand when I got the bike} these have never leaked or bent, there are 2 types of Betor, some can be rebuilt , some cant a friend has Falcons on a moto cross bike and they were always leaking , he has sent them back a few times but they leak again, after getting fed up with this he modified something on the seal holders himself and they haven't leaked since we seem to have had the opposite experience to everyone else ! whatever you end up buying , I think its always best to get shocks that can be rebuilt

It doesn't, but if there was only one governing body, with a monopoly and no competition then that could turn bad eventually - charging silly fees for licences etc.

hello, 2mm oversize that would be 68mm ? I have seen these on ebay for the DT175 , which should be interchangeable with a TY175 {but check before buying, I could be wrong} also seem to remember the TY250 mono, standard size piston was 68mm, I think and MAY fit again check all dimensions before buying , its been a few years since I had the same problem and I cant remember which piston I ended up using ! hope this is helpful

If you are worried about the ethanol content in the petrol ,maybe you could remove the ethanol with one of the kits from - www.ethanil.co.uk I have never tried the process myself , but it seems simple enough from the instructions & I remember Classic Bike magazine doing an article about the process and they found it simple and had no problems.

If the EFI system is the only unique part on the bike , and it was beyond repair, would it be possible to retro fit a carb ? { I know this wouldn't be as good but could keep the bike in use } a lot of modern 4 stroke bikes have EFI, even a little Honda CB125, maybe parts from one of these could be adapted. I think it would be okay to buy an OSSA , as long as you are realistic about the spares situation , and if you have contact with people who can do some engineering / re-conditioning when required.