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djr

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Everything posted by djr
 
 
  1. djr

    OKO Carburetors

    Yes, isn't the OKO a good copy of a Keihin ? and some of the other copies are not so good
  2. I could be wrong, but I don't think you can compare jet numbers, from one carb manufacturer to another . I know that Mikuni Hexagon head jets & slotted head jet numbers are not equivalent - one is flow rate I think ? , the other type some measurement of the physical size ? also with some jets the flow is measured in the direction fuel would flow in use, while other jets the measurement is done in the opposite direction you would be best to call a carb specialist
  3. Mikuni is another good option, and if low-cost is important, you can buy many used Mikuni's that are still serviceable - unlike Amal , where 99% of used ones will be completely worn-out due to the rubbish metal they are made from Had the same problem as you with my OSSA 250 MAR about 5 years ago, got a good used Mikuni & a selection of jets , after some experimenting found jetting that suited the bike , and have had no carb problems for 5 years
  4. Don't get Lycra . Lycra only looks good when worn by a fit woman
  5. you would bother if you want the best engine performance, I didn't think it was important until I set the clearance correctly on a 175 Yamaha , and found a noticeable improvement in power , plus it stopped pinging ( which had been a problem previously }
  6. As has been said , the tread on todays speedway tyres is very shallow { even when new } and although the tread pattern may look like a trials type there are probably differences in sidewall & plies etc.
  7. Has anybody tried removing the ethanol from the petrol before use, as an alternative to sealants etc ? there was at least one company selling a kit { Ethanil.co.uk , I think was one ? } I remember reading an article where you added a certain amount of water to your petrol, the ethanol would then be absorbed by the water. this ethanol + water mixture would then separate from the petrol and sink to the bottom of your container and then you syphoned off the now ethanol-free petrol . sounded a good idea , but never met anyone who tried it. if it works the only problem I can see is that you are still left with all the other modern additives still in your petrol and these may also attack glass fibre
  8. If you are worried about - potential bike thieves , then any type of advertising lets people know you have a bike . But it wont sell if no-one knows its for sale ? you are possibly safer advertising it on trials forums / club websites etc , but your ad wont be seen by many people if you don't trust ebay , then definitely don't advertise it on facebook whatever you do TMX is weekly so worth a try, or if you are in no hurry maybe try some monthly magazines ? if you want top retail money for it then you will have to advertise & sell it yourself , otherwise maybe ask some bike shops if they are interested in selling on your behalf { they will obviously want a reasonable cut of the selling price } good luck
  9. If you only want to kill the bacteria that causes the smell , you could try putting the helmet in a bag , then put the helmet in a freezer for a few hours . I haven't tried this myself , but I have a friend who has flameproof overalls & helmet for car racing - he tries to avoid washing as he reckons this reduces the flame retardant properties. when his kit gets a bit smelly { but not dirty } he puts it all in a sealed bag and leaves overnight in freezer
  10. It does sound like you have the wrong seals . I have replaced several over the years and have never needed to use much force
  11. although not strictly necessary , a couple of thin coats of etch primer before you put on the filler/primer can help with adhesion
  12. perhaps making a plug that fits tightly - then drill and pin ? or drill and screw ? or glue if you can find something that will withstand high temperatures ?
  13. Only every winter ? you are very lucky , mine gets stuck every time I ride it ! If I ride it today , it will definitely be stuck tomorrow . in fact sometimes just letting it cool down for an hour is enough for it to stick. as for releasing it, as has been said - bump start it and ride it while pulling in the clutch is one method that usually works for me in a few minutes. or pull in clutch and keep kicking over till it releases ( ignition off ) perhaps you could hold the clutch lever in with a cable tie ? when not using the bike
  14. as others have said, if you really cant get the hang of riding the 300 maybe look at a 200 or 125. But maybe avoid a 125 if you are a bit tall or heavy
  15. Thanks, probably wouldn't have looked under ATV / Quad
  16. would you have the Electrex part no. for that please ? my own Beamish has its original ignition components, but they are all looking a bit frail , and I expect its only a matter of time before the ignition plays up
  17. djr

    smokey mar

    My own MAR starting smoking suddenly one day, but had been fine when ridden the previous week. turned out to be crank oil seal on clutch side had somehow got stuck to the crankshaft and was rotating with it ! { no idea how this could happen, but it did } fitted new seal with some adhesive and its been fine since, worst part of the job was removing the cush-drive off the Crankshaft to access the seal
  18. I think its the Petrol that does this . I don't know the proper scientific term for it { but I am sure someone does, and will be along shortly} its as if the plastic is porous and the petrol soaks into it. Perhaps different types of Petrol and the different Premix oil cause different effects / colour changes ? and of course could be explained by different types of plastic being used to manufacture two tanks that look the same ? as for prevention, I guess you could get a new tank and fill it and drain it on the days you ride without leaving petrol in overnight may work ?
  19. Sorry you haven't had any replies , I cant help as I have never owned a pre65 bike maybe you have had no replies because you are thinking of using actual real old 1964 parts ? most people these days would be fitting - New Billet "pre65" yokes into a New "Replica Pre65" Frame Have you contacted any of the classic specialists ? like Sammy miller products , Terry Weedy
  20. Would bikes like Beamish Suzuki count ? ( British built frame & tank , assembled in Brighton ? ) or Yamaha HL500 ? ( assembled by NVT in the UK , with British built Frame )
  21. Okay , so if Brexit was cancelled we could have a 2019 UK World Trial GP with free entry ? Because everything in the EU is wonderful { and free } ? maybe Greece could have a world trial ? with all the bail-out money they have got it could be sponsored so free entrance ?
  22. nothing to do with Brexit, more likely these events have some financial support from local council / tourist board / local business's etc. which probably doesn't happen in the UK an element of money-grabbing is possible depending on who the organiser is ? but I wouldn't think must club type organisers would do this ? £30 entrance would probably put off any casual fans or newcomers , but maybe there isn't room at a UK venue for a large crowd, so this would be one way of keeping the audience at a manageable size ?
  23. sorry if this is the wrong place to ask , but just gone to look at ORRe on here but its gone, replaced with a message. can anyone explain ?
  24. djr

    The Cush drive

    Removing the Cush Drive can be done, some bikes have something similar on the clutch instead of the rear wheel, some bikes don't seem to have any Cush Drive on any part of the drivetrain I have an OSSA MAR with a Cush Drive on the Crankshaft { I have no idea why they fitted this ! } I think the general idea is to protect the Chain / Gearbox etc. from shocks , so it cant do any harm and may extend the life of these parts. the problem is when the Cush Drive wears you can end up with a wobbly sprocket etc. , if parts are easy to get & sensibly priced then probably easiest to leave as it is, if not then making it solid wont cause any major problems I would think up to you really, hope this helps
 
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