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Try the centering spring adjustment 1st - thats what its for. You cant tell squat by looking at it.
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You need the Magnum bottles.
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Looks great - but me thinks an angry wife of a cheater designed that lethal rear fender.
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Have you cleaned your mid box and silencer? Doubt there is a rev limiter on a SY - but im no expert on them.
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I really dont see how a rule, where there are more people against it, than for it, will do anything but reduce participation. I don't see how any valid governing body defines the rules around unfounded claims and unsupported sales policy. If they really feel they need to to do it, they should use a transparent and data driven process to help people accept it. That has certainly not been the case here. Now that they have received such a cold reception to the idea, why wouldnt they quickly set everyone straight on the "sound" logic of the change. Haven't seen it, so I get more and more polarized against it and believe others are too.
If it really is the manufacturers that are for this, how come they have been relatively mum on it. Does anyone have any recent press release from a European mfg that welcomes this change with open arms, and states how it will help? OK - I get they save the cost of a minder, but will that save the industry?
Sales wise, shouldn't the market speak for itself. Haven't agile, light weight bikes out sold the over priced, heavy ones for many years now? Im all for reduced costs - especially if that means cheaper bikes. Is there a production rule coming? Isnt that a proven recipe used by many other forms of motorsports to reduce racing costs. OK, Maybe it wont work in trials - I don't have specific data on it, but if I was making wholesale changes to the rules - I sure as heck would!
With so many people now "rooting" for the failure of this policy - including the top riders, it seems unwise that the FIM just continues to blindly steer into the storm.
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Heres what Jim Snell Wrote up:
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If your fuel needle isnt stuck open with dirt, you probably have the floats upside down. Flat side of the float goes to the bottom of the bowl.
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Got to putt around on a 2012 GG Raga 300 and Sherco 305 back to back. It was fun comparing the 2 against each other - conclusion - there both great bikes. The Sherco is a very easy bike to ride - very stable, smooth motor and turns well. I own a 2011 Raga 280 and the 300 is smoother for sure.
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The shock should spring back immediately and there should not be a dead zone when compressing. Sounds like your charge is gone. (bad seal)
I know Stu at Jackscycles (southern Maine USA) had a similar issue with a Reiger last year - he sent it back to Reiger and they fixed it for No Charge. (He had to pay shipping though) He has a good relationship with them and could help if your local dealer cant. The other thing you may consider is to have them custom valve it to your weight/ability while they have it on the bench.
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As far as the bikes go - I think we should let the market speak for itself. If one MFG makes the lightest bike and it fails to draw sales, it will die a natural death. If it doesn't - and in fact other manufacturers join in, then the natural competition will benefit us all. I don't know anyone smarter than the free market and don't know why people continue to think otherwise. (and if they by chance are, why would they waste there time with the trials bike market)
I would support a claim rule to reduce costs - but thats about it on the bike side.
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And if that doesnt work - many folks use a oversized rubber air box mud flap
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I for one would be in favor of tweeks to the rules such as this one before tossing out the entire concept of stop allowed. Keeping it simple for the checkers is a must.
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As above - check the box for leaks. In addition, Using a splash plate between the front frame tubes can help prevent water coming off the front wheel from getting into the airbox intake.
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There is a thread on here somewhere that describes how the pro's do it - maybe someone will link it. All the above with the prep - but I think they put them on wet to allow repositioning.
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The 125's use the same spring as the big bikes - so +1 on the 06 spring replacement. Drag is usually a plate flatness & possible swelling issue. Like sting said - check the finger height and stack height specs as well as flatness. Last but not least - use 350 to 375cc of ATF-DexIII. Less fluid = less drag - especially in cold weather. Change it often. FWIW: you can look at the seals in the clutch slave to determine what fluid to run. That info is on the GGUSA site as well. Its in a word file, under Pro engine info.
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Trials and Enduro news had an excellent review of the S3 kit in the Dec 2012 issue.
272 kits = no case boring
The reviewer (Matt Liberatore) stated that S3 recommends the programmable throttle body as well as the larger header pipe (28mm) for full effect.
He goes into detail about the different maps available - from mild to wild. Stated the maps were really the key to sorting the bike to your preference.
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I know they use the std O-rings on a GG. Would assume they would on the Sherco too.
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IMO - 290 better when going up big hills/hits, 250 easier to ride precisely in all other situations. I like them both. They are geared kinda short stock. From what im hearing, the new 200's have a noticeable power increase - havent ridden one yet myself.
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I would drain the oil out of the gearbox - maybe its in there and is on the magnet. Do not ride it until found. Replace idler gear. Sometimes the tooth gets trapped behind the clutch and you need to pull it off to check. Find it!
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They are coming out with a 170 this year. I'd get that one. the old 163 kit really woke up the old yamaha 125's, but was expensive to retro fit.
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You could Richen the needle as well. If the jetting is spot on now, richer will slow down the pickup a bit.
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It seems someone did a conversion to your bike. Yes - GG25 marking on the jug,adjacent to the exhaust, means 250cc.
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Im not sure who makes them, but I know a couple of our top expert riders here have switched to the Jitsie RACE pads and seem to like the power improvement. Have no personal experience with them but am planning on trying them next.
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The Clutch Slave also holds it in. Alot of folks remove it as Lineaway mention. I keep mine in cause I paid for it.... - dont need to crank it tight or loctite it. It has very little to no load.
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