b40rt

http://www.stevenstonmcc.co.uk/

One of the advantages of using Rockshocks is that you can change the length easily and fairly cheaply.

Was the 250 considered better ?

Hi Guy, wheelbase is slightly long if 51.5 is the magic number, so shortening it is not an issue. Will try dropping the yokes out of interest.

Interesting topic, was thinking of changing angles but cutting is a bit permanent. Any ball park figures of how much this will change the wheel base and ground clearance ? Thanks Ross

Hi Woody The extra vents probably cancel the vacuum effect that the camshaft vent is supposed to create. I never have any leaks when the engine is running so hopefully it's ok.

Thanks David, as Tony said, these projects have a habit of growing arms and legs. Happy New Year Ross

Try some octane booster or super unleaded to eliminate pinking as a source.

I vent the oil tank to atmosphere, again just a transparent hose under the tank. Same for the breather on the rocker cover. If you have these connected together you may be pressurising the tank, easy to check if you open it after a ride. If you leave the engine on compression, the cam breather is closed I think, which slows the oil getting into the timing side case. If the case is well sealed the only exit is through the breather and that is high and would take a lot of oil. Again transparent hoses help identify any problems. (the cam breather is supposed to create a vacuum in the crankcase so a breather in the rocker cover probably cancels it out !) Your oil sounds really light for the ambient temp and also these engines can get pretty hot, especially if your timing is out ! I never leave my bikes sitting on their wheels, but that's probably just me.

Come on feetupfun, time to show the photographs, please.

I'm guessing its engine oil ? Gearbox can leak from the seal behind the sprocket, kickstart shaft, or any of the covers, buts clear so should be easily identifiable. Primary can leak round the casing, seal behind clutch, but on mine oils red, so again easily identifiable. Side stand was moved to right to keep the clutch as dry as pos' so it wouldn't slip when starting. They all seam to wet sump, eventually. The ball valves and seats seam to be the problem, but on mine if I leave it on compression the pump position slows the oil so it takes a lot longer to fill the sump. As Woody said, the engine vents on the down stroke of the piston through the cam and into the casing below the timing cover / distributor, then out through a small pipe beside the clutch arm. Any oil that gets blown into the casing below the points, should return through the tiny hole in the otherwise empty casing. Which oil are you running it on ? The correct oil is heavier than the 20/50 that I use, but I buy it cheap and change it often. Rupert Ratio is a mine of information, if you haven't seen it yet. I have a vent from one of the rocker covers, and you can feel it breathing. I have a short length of clear pipe attached and terminated under tank. I assume you also have a breather on the oil tank ? Again on mine I had to reposition the outlet as on steep up hills the oil would come out. Mine is a modified tank/position. I change the gasket on the cover under the oil pump to a heavier home made one as I had a slight seap. Also check the two pipes going/coming from the oil pump arnt leaking.

I use hard plastic blocks, cut to size. They initially wear quickly but once in shape last well. Machine shops can usually supply off cuts.

If the PLUG fails, clues in the words. Thought you had removed electrics from the equation ?

Maybe 111 didn't know ?

Hi myzeneye, waste pipe can be bought from any plumbers merchant, or any plumber will have lots of off cuts, if you know any. Springs do shrink with age , so your original spacers might be ok. Can't say whether your new spring will be a similar length, but the pre-load tube normaly puts the spring under slight tension. The heavier oil should balance out the stronger spring rate, resulting in similar damping .

With new heavier springs, if you don't put heavier oil in your damping will be less effective. Or, change the shims. Oils easier.

http://www.stevegoodemotorcycles.co.uk/ Speak to Steve, some rims like old Akronts will seat a tubeless ok. Don't know about jap rims. IRC still make a tubeless rear, all fronts are tube these days, I think. When running a IRC you usually have to put in about 1psi more than other makes. Vee Rubber are pretty good as well.

Any update? Get yourself a Bantam as they are really competative these days (if your prepared to spend) Regarding earlier comments about giving up and saving the NHS etc money, obesity would seem to pose more of a threat than a few injuries now and again.

Spark came and went on the bike I had borrowed (TD's) I thought it was fuel to and had the carb off 3 times. The replacement ignition has now also failed. Might well be carb, but worth considering ignition.

Stevie Have you fitted electronic ignition ? Quite a few breaking down, 4 alone at Highland 2 day trial. Ross

Danilo Galeazzi

Charles Coutard

Float level or needle valve leaking / blocked.

http://www.bultacouk.com/ Have you looked here ?