anyoldiron

Couldn't Sherco have just put a Keihin carb on at the factory??I wonder how those fuel tanks will hold up.All in all,another fine machine-alot of them about at the moment.Aren't we a lucky lot.

'tis he.Welcome

Sounds like you shelved the sidestand?I secretly desire to own a 4rt but no way am I going to admit it,especially not here

Is THIS an advert?

I have a 2008 with standard bars.I use the bike alot and have had numerous offs and they have remained in one piece.Remarkably so.I would certainly recommend them on this but I guess it depends how much they are.Might be pricey being a factory spare part.They also suit me in terms of rise etc.I am quite tall.I think Neken is the brand

Alot of people say the Fantic 240 is a good twinshock'out of the box'.My advice would be to ride a bike that YOU like -how it feels ,sounds,looks etc.And make that bike run as sweet as it can.Compared to a moden bike,classics are a bit rubbish if you are judging them as competetive trials machines.I have a Greeves and its a heavy dinosaur thing but it is such fun to ride,but I dont really use it much because I love the rev3 and find it infinitely more enjoyable in the long run.I've always fancied a heavy british bike though,something like a 1954 Royal Enfield 500 trials.looks great sounds great,a real lump.I imagine that would be great fun in a classic trial..........

I think Beta UK were recommending a 5 for the 250 for Uk use.I use a 6 because I'm all for compromise.I think there is a resistor in the cap?as well and all I know is that some 2t run better without resistors.I have run both in a Rev 3 and have never noticed any difference whatsoever.??

Hi Steve.Oil mix sounds about right.I use 300ml to 20litres good unleaded.Use synthetic.IF the 270 is a bit fierce check for flywheel weights on/ off or type of throttle quick/slow .Theres other stuff you can do to mellow it-gaskets and such-check the threads.But personally I have found,initially,some bikes too aggressive until I have got used to them.I reckon the trial is a pretty safe habit as far as injury goes.Having said that I'll probably go and wrench my knee tomorrow and spend the next fortnight hobbling around.

Wow.What a fantastic manual.Sherco USA have done a mighty fine job there.Really excellent

I have had a float 'leak'and fill with petrol,thus becoming a weight-not a float.Fuel peed out like you say.Just an idea...

Even the tiniest drop of water or speck of dirt can affect performance so I would hugely recommend compressed air to clean the jets and passage ways of the carb if you have not already.Obviously firstly check fuel by pulling hose from carb with fuel on,should run constantly and regularly out of hose end.Try it on reserve as well.

Betas do this too I think from what you describe.I use a piece of metal(a shim) cut from a drink can and fix this to the silencer,replacing when it gets worn out.Works good too

I would check fuel flow into carb.Then I would clean carb.What you describe sounds to me like either fuel starvation or muck in carb.A very small amount of water can also block jets.Clean it out with compresed air.If that doesn't clear it maybe it's a timing issue.So thats where I would look next.To me it does sound more like fuel flow or dirty carb.Also check the float bowl is doing what it should.Hope that helps

I believe they are stronger and as they don't have the cross bar,lighter.

I would persevere.It is not difficult.First time can seem tricky but better try and sort it yourself because you will have to do it again sooner or later.Are you stuck at separating the inner slider from the outer?Careful and gentle use of heat has helped me here.Otherwise where is your brother getting stumped?Putting it together?.oil?.I dont have a Mont but I reckon its not different from anything else.There are totorials on youtube by gasgas,loads of help in the Beta section here and some articulate soul will probably see you right here.Seals are about the price of chips.Don't give up!! ps Any bike shop,if you take the fork in will probably split it there and then if you are nice

Hi.I think picking and sticking to a line is some good advice.

The chain tensioner on the Beta Rev 3 can be made to fit the 240.Classic Trial in Southampton are advocates of this mod and I am sure Chris of Classic Trial would talk you through the procedure.He knows Fantic extremely well-would probably see you right with the other issue if you still have a problem.I would have a look at timing too...

Good luck.You might have to get the'trials boot fairy'to help

good question

I found a really good practice technique to start using back brake and clutch instinctively was to do a wheelie from standstill,move forward about a metre,come abruptly to a stop,repeat endlessly,moving forward in 1m 'jumps'.In 3rd.I wasn,t coming from bicycle trials though.I was coming from a Greeves Scottish that didn't really have a rear brake so I never really used it.Clutch wasn't that great either. Also,doing figure of 8 on full lock will be a great help for clutch and b/brake use

That's one helluva big pair of pliers in the bottom picture.I'd be chuffed to bits if I could get anything near as good as that on a proper bike.Next you'll be telling us its made out of cheese....

Mine died just like that a while back,turned out to be a plug.Never had a plug just pack up like that.Bad luck for you if its the stator.Bummer.Get a Montesa and move to Norfolk ......

Hi.I use,I think,Pro Filter,which is and stays extremely thick and sticky,most unlike engine oil.Also it stays in the sponge and doesn,t sink to the lowest point of the filter.Ideally I would not use engine oil as it does not have these characteristics.Montesa obviously have their reasons for using engine oil,maybe they are changing it every hour.I imagine most filter gloop is similarly thick and sticky.I think they are a good idea.Its the oil in the sponge that is the filter,not the sponge-thats only a vehicle for the sticky 'oil',so,I reckon,why use engine oil in an air filter. All the best

Just got in having hopefully sorted back brake.For what its worth this is what worked for me.Attach hose to nipple.Add fluid to resevoir.Pump on pedal slowly a few times.Keep pedal pushed down.Open valve at nipple,then close valve.Repeat alot,checking resevoir level .Then I do the same process with the rear wheel raised 2 foot in the air,then the front wheel in the air,side to side,drive around between bleeds,generally agitate.Most of all patience and repetition,even when no air bubbles seem forthcoming.Hope you have success.

I would still try Lampkins on an exchange basis.It may not be an issue(the crack)to them and they might exchange it anyway.