2stroke4stroke

It was the trigger coils on mine.

Given that you could have paid about four and a half thousand pounds for a Yamaha a quarter of a century ago you seem to be getting an adequately good deal It's hardly worth waiting for the 2021 stickers, for that's all the likely difference.

Blimey, I thought Covid had turned the turned the world upside down, but not so much as to see you on a twostroke!

I had a Michelin front on a new bike and chased round the rim as you have done. Michelin replaced it, I would suggest you have a faulty tyre.

Well, well, I've spent fifty years thinking getting the holeshot meant being first off the grid. But the first corner discussion does remind me of the best worst start I ever saw which was at the Norman Scramble at Beauval some years ago. A substantial entry shot off and Arthur Browning, for some reason, didn't get away and was left what seemed half the very long start straight behind. I've no idea what speed he attained but he passed the entire field and outbraked the lot in to the first corner whence he led the race.

I had a similar problem with an RL Suzuki, which had rather thin sliders, but the fork jammed completely (the Mamore Road, not to mention the sections, was fairly interesting with a solid front end?). I can't recall exactly what they did but a local machine shop were able to sort it and it lasted for years thereafter.

Whilst the CR conrod works I suspect the CR crank will have much lighter flywheels.

Sounds like it could be a sticking piston. The previous owner may have released the brake pressure to hide a binding brake or just got it wrong when trying to fix it. Remove the pads and make sure that both pistons are moving but beware of them coming out. They may need cleaned but there are plenty youtube videos on how to do this. Refit and pump up (again plenty videos on bleeding brakes) whereupon all should be centralised.

Exactly. A pal had an '05 which he sold at 12 years old still with the original plug in it and still running like a watch. Worth checking the valve clearances but I'd go no further if there's no symptoms.

Plenty websites will identify fonts - try googling "font identification".

The bit under the tank is comprised of a perforated tube with packing round it. Cleaning and repacking is well worth doing. Cut a window in the back of the box so the repair doesn't show.

If your need is purely to get an MoT then just take the lights off altogether. If you really need to use lights you can fit a diode in to the circuit to restrict voltage. I'm assuming the bike is six volt but can't remember what the diode we used to fit back in the day was called. The twelve volt version was universally known as a zener diode, though presumably a proprietary name, and possibly available in various voltages. The alternative was to fit twentyfour volt bulbs. No doubt technology has moved on and someone will be able to suggest a more modern alternative.

You're right. Out of curiosity I once collected the muck hosed off my IT 250, let it dry, then weighed it. 15 lbs, so maybe half as much again wet?

The Montesa tanks were prone to cracking at the rear weld back in the day, I don't suppose age will have improved the chances.

What you say is true, done properly there is normally no problem as excess compounds tend to stay in place. The Hylomar sets to a very rigid state and any excess breaks off sending hard bits in to circulation. No great problem on a two-stroke as they either get chewed up in the transmission or disappear out the exhaust. Perhaps it's now packaged in a tube with a dispenser that enables a thin bead to be deployed but thirty years ago it was like dealing with toothpaste?