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rcgods

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  1. The older airbox would be from the model 159,183,191 style. These have one sidepanel as part of the airbox and the other is the airbox lid. Photo of one from a model 191 attached.
  2. That ones £18 Dan
  3. Wrong one spen. That is for the earlier engines. The 2015 onward use the puller like this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272949317462 I would buy one as they are one of those useful tools especially if you are playing with the timing to feel how it changes the bike.
  4. This is taken from the 2016 Evo engine rebuild manual. CLOSING THE ENGINE CASING Insert two centring bushes A and replace the gasket with a new one. Once the seal is replaced with a new one, heat the main bearing and the area around it on the right casing. Continue heating until the casing enters the motor shaft with minimal hindrance. Before starting the heating process it is recommended to grease the oil seal found on the outer side of the half-casing. ATTENTION! Be careful not to deteriorate the oil seal while heating the bearing. Press the right half-casing towards the left half, ensuring that the shafts, bolts and pins on the casings are inserted into their respective housing and the half-casing is positioned correctly. To make it easier to draw the two half-casings closer together and line them up, it is possible to use two screws, or more, on opposite sides and tighten them gradually. If the casings do not remain in their correct position, do not tighten further but loosen the screws and set the casings back into their correct position.Ensure that the two casings fit perfectly then mount and tighten the recessed hexagonal head screws (M6x50), whose tightening torque must be 10Nm. It is recommended to tighten the screws in a cross-wise pattern. Then carefully cut the excess parts of the seal in the cylinder area and intake pipe. Give a few blows to the end-parts of the motor shaft with a rubber hammer in direction of the axes so as to release any residual stress on the casings caused by the heating process.
  5. I'm with Carlos on this one. Its easier to remove the rear wheel, shock and linkages. Gives the opportunity to grease the bearings and makes fitting the new spring easier as I clamp it in my vice and can use my compressors to make the job easier.
  6. Not sure if you can get repair panels but it might be worth posting this on the Ford Transit Owners forum as they will know. A lot of them work miracles with stuff i would have scrapped years ago.
  7. I use an old tyre lever that has a thin edge. I remove all bolts from the clamps and wedge the tyre lever in just to open the gap slightly. Adding WD40 to the legs as they come through the yokes helps but can make it harder to pull them through.
  8. I definitely would as well (and did) makes moving the swingarm about for getting at bolts easier. I hold mine up with a bungee between the axle holes over the mudguard/airbox.
  9. Just done this on my Evo. Dead easy to do. I undid the swingarm to triangle mount first as this makes dropping the dog bones down easier to remove the lower dog bone bolt.
  10. Beta UK recommended Putoline GP10 in the gearbox when I asked them for a '17
  11. Chewy, Try ignition on, full throttle, then pump the foot brake three times (maybe more though) that should reset it. Try it while driving along for added danger!
  12. I use Putoline Chain Wax, well something similar. Still got a couple of tins of it from the 70s.
  13. Bosal do not list a normal towbar for this car neither do Witter. However I don't think the Leon changed from 2009 to 2010 and Towequipe list a standard flange type towbar for the 2009 year. Give them a call and they might be able to help.
  14. I think it was about
  15. Normal DOT 4 brake fluid will be fine in the Sherco.