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About twinnshock

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/10/1963

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Previous Fields

  • Bike
    All Bultaco's
  • Club
    Braintree and District MCC

Profile Information

  • Location
    Halsted, Essex
  • Gender

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3,482 profile views
  1. Feet up fun, Not quite sure the clamps in your top picture are quite right. I have had a rummage in my shed and dug out this model 10 top yoke with the clamps and u bolts. Picture attached. I have also attached a picture of the top yoke fitted to my first M10 that has since been sold to Spain. This is an after market part but was a period upgrade. Stuart
  2. The fiirst M10 that I owned was fitted with a rather sturdy top yoke with clamps similar to the later type. The stalks supporting the handlebars were best described as flared into the top of the yoke part. After a bit of research I found that this part was an after market replacment made by Sandiford in the UK. I believe others also made replacements. These were made and sold due to the original parts being a bit fragile and prone to breaking. Given a choice I would prefer one of these after market parts as they were stronger and also still a period part/mod. In my many years of Bultaco ownership I have broken a top yoke only once and this was a model 80 later clamp type. Came to a rather abrupt stop at the bottom of a ditch and the yoke snapped with my full weight hitting the handlebars. Stuart
  3. No the U bolt was phased out during the rather long production of the M49. But as a model 10 owner and ex early model 49 owner can confirm the clamp part is common and these come up on ebay from time to time manly in the states. I once bought a bag of 10 that I kept one pair that I wanted and sold the rest. Stuart
  4. I have just bitten the bullet so to speak and ordered an aluminium tank from India via ebay. Mine is to fit a model 188 Alpina. The tank is listed as a Sherpa tank on ebay but the picture quite clearly shows with the cut out as per the Alpina seat so fingers crossed that I get what I require! They accepted my ebay offer so fingers crossed it gets through customs without any issues or further cost. My son is currently in France as part of the Army support team at the ISDE. I had a phone call from him last night. He has been told that baring earthquake or North Korean missile strike he has a 95% confirmed ride as part of the Army team (RLC) for the 2018 SSDT. The Army have allocated places so he will skip the ballot. I will need some transport as part of his support team and the Alpina seems a good option. The original tank is fibreglass and leaking hence the purchase. The joint between inner and outer shells has split at rear. Was planning to repair but I need to get the bike on road as soon as possible. Details will be posted when tank arrives. Stuart
  5. I know nothing about Matador's so obviously well qualified to answer this question. Are we sure that a 1969 bike would have the plastic/perspex badges? My 1971 Sherpa has the sticker thin transfer type badges and I would have thought that an earlier production bike/model would use this type of badge. My model 10 (1965) has thin metal badges just to confuse the issue even further. Stuart
  6. During my 40 years of continuous ownership of various Bultaco bikes, the only ignition issues I have ever had is either plug or condensor. I have a vintage car and after also after suffering condensor issues have now fitted a modern easycap condensor from Bright spark magnetos. No issues since fitting and it does seem to have improve starting. For information my car (BSA SCOUT) is coil ignition not magneto. Not yet tried one on a Bultaco but if I get any issues in the future I plan to give one of these a try. Any body else come across these? I have no conection with this company. Stuart
  7. Have you tried looking where you last had it? I'll get my coat............................... Stuart
  8. I have a model 166 and can confirm that the frame is basicly the same as the same year Sherpa but has differences to lugs for the different airbox and also the brake light switch. However other than that that bike is quite different. It has some components from the Frontera/Pursang ie fork yokes (tripple tree if reading this other side of pond) that change the fork trail so it has a different wheel base. The engine looks the same but internally is also quite different to the same year Sherpa having different bore and stroke, (bigger capacity) compression ratio, porting and gear ratio's and I think crankshaft balance weight but not sure on the last one. My bike is an early example M166 and it still has in perfect condition the original stainless steel front and rear mudguards. I think these were only fitted to a limited number of bikes as they were quite expensive to produce. Most had the Sherpa aluminium guards fitted. The problem with trying to answer the original posters question is that spec could change mid production depending on what parts were in stock and at this distance of time impossible to answer many of the small insignificant changes that took place. Sales brochures can be misleading as oftain published quite some time before a model was actually produced. Stuart
  9. I have posted in the stolen bikes section so please forgive me for posting again here. It's with great sadness that our next junior academy trial on the 22nd July (and all future events for that matter) has been cancelled after the clubs OSET BIKES WERE STOLEN from one of our committee's houses in Halsted overnight. The bikes stolen were a 16 racing and a 20 racing model. Can we please share this posting far and wide and keep eyes and ears peeled for any information that may lead to the recovery of these bikes. As you know these bikes were for the youngsters of our community to use and ride for just £10 a go and these thieves have robbed not only the club but all of the children in our community who could come and ride them. We are dumbfounded by these thieves selfishness. Please contact anyone at the club if you see or hear anything suspicious. Thank you. Stuart
  10. The Braintree and District MCC purchased 3 OSET bikes at the end of last year. These bikes have been used to promote Trials and we have been running events once or twice a month getting youngsters to try out Trials. This has been our attempt to promote Trials and get youngsters to take up the sport and the results so far have been encouraging. Last night two of the bikes were stolen from my garage in Halstead, Essex. I suspect that who ever stole these bikes knew what they were targetting as they broke in stole the two OSETs, the spare batteries and chargers and nothing else has been touched. Essex police have been informed and as I write this I am waiting in for them to visit. Only 2 bikes were stolen as the other was currently being stored in another location. The two bikes stolen were both 2016 model year details as follows. 16.0 Racing 2016. Frame number – OSET16R5H402 20.0 Racing 2016. Frame number – OSET20R5H574 Please if any body is offered one of these bikes or has any information please let me or Essex police know. I can be contacted on 07530 470440 Stuart Penfold
  11. Here in the UK to use a vehicle on the road you pay a Tax (Vehicle Excise Duty) Paid every 6 months or yearly. If you no longer plan to use the vehicle on the road you have to register it as off road (SORN) If you do not and despite the vehicle not being in use you are still liable for the tax. This was brought in to stop non payers of the tax. If the vehicle is registered off road and you are caught using it on road the fine is even greater than if you just did not pay the tax. Next post I will try an actual joke but on the other hand, UK car tax system this is probably the correct section! Stuart
  12. Agree with model 80. Your bike in the picture is defiantly a 199 so the red paint is correct.. The 199A came out in late 1978 was painted blue. Had an aluminium bash plate under the engine, reinforced swinging arm and a different magneto cover and kick start. The gear ratio's were also changed with most notable visible difference between 199 and 199A is the later has a smaller rear sprocket. Other minor changes including adjusting the height of the engine in the frame by a small amount. You bike looks quite original. In the UK we would have had a different tank to that fitted for the rest of the world. The only thing basically not correct is that seat is wrong. The gear change can be set either LH or RH. LH was standard and with this set up the rear brake is operated by a cable that loops across to a bracket on the frame down tube near the silencer. I can not be sure from your pictures but I think I can see a blob of weld but the bracket seems to have been cut off. This cable operated brake is a bit spongier than the direct operated rod and opinions will vary as to what is best. I have a 199 myself and have been told by several people over the years that this model was better that any that followed, including a local (East Anglia/UK) ex champion who owns a 199B Obviously that is an opinion that many will disagree with but my 199 is my favourite bike to ride. Stuart
  13. You are right. But this was up to the early 70's then changed. But the frame and engine should be within 50 of each other as they were built or imported in batches This was unique to the UK market due to the reduced tax on kit supplied bikes and despite what many of us think on this island quite a lot of the rest of the world also bough these bikes at this time which would have had matching frame and engine numbers. So a late bike should have matching engine and frame numbers even in the UK. Stuart
  14. Obviously no rush to answer this question. I have been through this process several times. Last time I said I would never do it myself again. Previously suggested on this forum the following company. I appreciate that this company will charge but sometimes it is best to pay an expert and stand back. I am not connected to this company in any way. Stuart
  15. I have one bike with the polypropylene tank and this is faded and what ever I seem to used just looks drab, dirty, and awful. I have recently bought an alloy tank and am planning to dump the plastic one. A couple of my bikes have white plastic mudguards. These get scratched and the scratches seem to attract the dirt. I have found the best cleaner for these is Mr Sheen spray polish. An ample amount applied to the mudguard and then buffed up with a soft cloth and these come up looking as clean as new. Stuart