Twinshock

Hello there I have a Bing 84 fitted on my 1975 Sherpa which needs new gaskets and O rings, but the price I found online is the same as whole new carburettor! Therefore I’m wondering if: A. Is this is the right carb for the bike? B. Where I can find a cheap rebuild kit so it runs properly? C. Can I put a new carb on it? I don’t know much about this bike so any help is much appreciated. Thanks Tom

I have just purchased a 1978 Montesa 348, can any one point me in the direction of a specialise who can do work on such bikes? Looking at manly engine/gearbox including full rebuilds, Kind Regards John

1981 248 Montesa, same bottom end as 349. I’ve owned since new, got rebuilt about 15 years ago, done little since. It’s been a few years since I rode it and can’t remember if it always sounded like this but I think not. Any thoughts as to what this rattling is from those of you with better memories or bikes that do/don’t make this noise? Thanks. Video of bike running: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hDHj3LvyNAvQO7q4dQYDrzyU5u1NtZ_K/view?usp=sharing

Can anyone identify this frame on a bike i have just acquired Honda xl250 0r rs engine fitted think engine is incorrect frame is well manufactured and looks professional

Hi fellow Montesa owners. I know this site states Twin shocks, my Montesa is a single shock, I need some help please, I have a Cota 307 and need some info on the ignition electrics. No spark been testing the individual parts , any body got any suggestions where I can go to get the info .

Ok., for discussion, what would be the pros and cons for both machines? Consider that both bikes have had a full rebuild and also have all required frame mods done etc. Heavily built rider 200lbs (90kgs) This is code for overweight 😂

I rebuilt my forks with the magical dampening rods, magical springs, and adjustable pre-load bolts. I added 167cc of 10 wt. fork oil. I set the adjuster at minimum 20mm, and the fork caps add approximately another 28mm of preload (around 48mm total). I weight 225 with gear on, this is the reason I felt a little more pre-load maybe ok. When cycling the fork with no spring and fork cap off there is a sucking sound of the oil, sounds like it is getting some air. Is this common? The dip length maybe different with the magical dampening rods as the length is different than the stock rod. Suggestions for fork oil amount? General suggestions? Thank You Glenn

hello, does any have a rear (or pair) mugduard for marlin / cagiva DG350 ? regards

The skid plate for my 74 TY250A is missing. B&J Racing has aftermarket plates, but the owner got hurt and is unable to ship. Are there other options for a skid plate, possibly from a different bike that will fit, or aftermarket that will fit with a little modification? Thank You Glenn

I would like to see all different models restored & projects , cheers , this is 1974 replica

I recently purchased a 74' TY250 which the prior owner rebuilt the forks. The forks feel very soft and offer a very flat rebound feeling. I decided to rebuild them again since the stanchions are rusty. I ordered new replacement stanchions and new aluminum damper rods "including all the factory works modifications" 🙂 for what that's worth. I also ordered a set of OZO Pro Trials rear shocks (340mm and set up for a 230 pound rider). I am looking for a set of replacement fork springs and possible rebound springs (if necessary) that will work with the above setup and my weight and I am having trouble locating them. BJR doesn't have any stock on fork springs at …

As I said in the title I’m looking to upgrade the shocks on my 61 tiger cub. I’ve seen tons of trials builds on tiger cubs and they look great, but I’m not too interested in doing trials (nowhere even near me to do them). I don’t know an insane amount about bikes, just enough to keep mine running, but what weight shocks would I need for a bike that I rip around on trails every other weekend with? I used to spend a lot of time doing motocross and just want something that I can do similar things with, I already have a heavy weight fork but I’ve seen trials suspension be only 40-50 pounds while some motocross shocks hit 70. So what do you guys think? tl;dr I want to bui…

I have bought a pair of Betor Gas Aluminum Trial shocks and found the bush a little too wide to fit in my frame. The bush feels like it’s in a spherical bearing so I’m not sure if they press out? I emailed Betor and I’m not sure they knew what I was asking…. It needs to be just 2mm narrower - so I could grind it down in situ, but if it comes out I’d prefer to do that. Stephen

Working on competing in A Grade events against modern bike on my 1983 TLR200. Tell me what you think of my little edit. More videos on my channel. Make sure to subscribe for more content coming soon! Located in Australia 🇦🇺 Channel: https://youtube.com/channel/UCxMq5wF99hHlWoew0y-DnJA

I'm running a Dunlop tubeless tire with tube on a TL250. It has new rim locks tightened as tight as possible. Looking at the valve stem, the rear tube is rotating on the rim. I assumed this must be the tire rotating but I marked the tire/ rim before last ride and it is not. The valve stem is noticeably angled with only one very mild ride. See pic with line and stem from one ride. The line is from black marker to black marker and not related to raised line on tire. This is strange. Is there a fix? To recenter valve stem, I have been doing a number of deflation and inflation cycles with a tightened valve stem nut and it does straighten out. I had a TY175 do …

Managed to find this beauty, must be a U.S. import and it is literally spotless, including the rims and fork/engine alloy surfaces. Great fun to ride and the long legged 5th gives you a decent pace between sections or events. Gave it a decent service and all is good, tight and clean, including the 2 stroke oil pump. Have put ATF in gearbox and using fully synthetic 2-stroke oil. Found some water in the o/s front fork leg - must have been in a few deep ones!!! Flushed thoroughly and re-filled with 10 wt fork oil. Tried to get a spare ignition key - $25 + postage from the U.S. Local pet shop selling KAW4 key blanks for £3.20, with £2 charge for cutting. Thinking…

I have a follow up question in my search for new rear shocks for vintage trials competitions. What does "Damping" mean and what is the actual different in riding with "standard damping" or with "light/ super light damping"? Thanks.

A little background: Me- 6ft. weight 175lb with gear. Bike- 1970 Montesa Cota 247 with unknown brand of rear shocks. The shocks can be adjust, but I can't turn the adjuster. See photos. Skill level- beginner. where- riding in vintage trials competitions in woods with a lot of uphills and downhills. Goal- keep getting better and score more points. Budget- unfortunately tight. I don't want to spend more than 200GBP include shipping to USA. At first I was intrigue by the OZO "Expert" shocks. The price is 90GBP before shipping and they seems good upgrade for trial competitions. Then I start reading and found out a world full of…

I'm riding 1970 Montesa Cota 247. I'm beginner and stating to compete in vintage trails events, meaning riding in woods. My bike has 10/48 sprockets set. The Cota manual indicate that the factory bike has 11/46 set. The difference is about 12%. But what does it mean? My main goal is to ride as slowly as I can in 1st gear and maintain smooth acceleration when needed. Does the 11/46 ratio is slower then 10/48? Should I changed back to the factory setting?

Hi. Advice please. I’ve repaired my gear selector cover on my TY175. All back together again and now I cannot select any gears. It’s as if the selector forks inside the engine are jammed or not moving and won’t move the pinions. After much huffing and puffing I took the clutch off to see the shifter assembly on the end of the gear shaft. The hooks don’t appear to engage with the pinned drum and hence won’t move anything. I tried to rotate the pinned drum manually but it seems to be locked solid. Any ideas?