Pre-65 Bikes

I am looking for a good workshop / reference manual for assistance in stripping / rebuilding my 1961 B40. I have the Haynes type but require something with info. any suggestions please.

Hi I am wanting to apply for v5 for my bsa b40, the frame has four numbers stamped on the headstock is that right ? Any help would be appreciated.

I found an older post with a similar title and thought to reply to it but the last post was two years ago and I thought this deserved a new topic. Anyway, a few years ago I rescued a bike that was listed in the paper as a "Triumph Cun". Figuring he meant "Cub" I called him up and picked up this thing from the side of the guys barn. It was in ROUGH shape, missing the engine, tank, seat etc. I started collecting parts for it on eBay, even found most of an engine though it wasn't a T20M but a regular old T20. I even listed this thing on the Cub website that was started back in 2000 or so and it was through here that I found out that my bike was a Commerford's Cub…

Hi Guy's, who's off to the Colmore cup revival on the 9th July, ?. Does anybody know who is going to ride up "camp", and on what ? Pat.

Hi there I was wondering if any one could offer any advice on my BSA bantam I have a problem getting it to tick over even once it's warmed up I have cleaned the pilot jet and all of the air ways and it just won't tick over like it did help much appreciated thanks

can anyone please advise on the configuration of the felt seal and retainer on a cub, or provide a diagram,is it oil seal,felt seal,retainer then bearing,or as my manual suggests just two oil seals?

I need a bit of help from any amc experts out there with a bike I have just bought,the story goes this machine was brought back from Zimbabwe in 2006 in large lumps in a container it was then reassembled by the owner to the state its in now. It seems to me to have the correct trials frame but has no c in the frame number,the motor is g3c 1961 and the gearbox is marked with a t and it has a wader mag fitted.The wheels and exhaust are quite clearly wrong unless this is some strange export model what do you think? Ian

My apologies for posting in the wrong sub-forum but this crowd typically will know most about the BSA unit single and it's application in trials. I am building up a B25 motor/modded B44 frame with old Bultaco suspension and wheels. I am ready to make my skid and have a few questions based on zero trials but other technical knowledge. Thinking 5mm/3/16 plate which ill heat treat to T6 after welding. Do I need to extend beyond the frame rails? I weld aluminum daily and was uythinking keeping the skid narrow and patching the covers when/if they get damaged. Will I need a spare in my tool box? How much case contact are you making? i would like to add I re…

hi. does anyone know where to get a bsa bantam trials pipe and silencer from as i cant find where to get them anywhere. our should i get one made. thanks charlie

I have just bought a 2nd hand Dellorto that was from a Fantic 125, it wouldn't run properly the existing jets are 95 main 45 pilot had a job to read needle 22!. Has anyone running a Dellorto and could inform of their jetting success ?

I'm trying to tidy up the oil unions going into the inner timing cover on an HT5 replica. Can someone please let me know the size and thread used for the unions that go into the timing cover? The original part numbers for the unions are 5890-35 (taken from the Draganfly web site) Thanks

Hi, Are there any wheel builders out there who could help me put my mind at rest? In the top photo is my newly spoked hub which I belived to be Tiger cub. In the bottom photo is a spare wheel from another Tiger Cub I have highlighted two spokes on each wheel, as you can see the spokes leave the hubs in a different pattern on my new hub. (the spokes are almost at 180 deg. to each other) No matter how I try and respoke the wheel I can't match the pattern of my spare wheel. First I spoke the Large (brake side) flange taking care to keep the spokes of equal length, which should align the rim and hub perfectly. When I try to spoke the small flange the only way they will…

I have been gathering bits and pieces for a rigid triumph project for a while now, I have a 49 ish Speed Twin frame and various pre unit motors some alloy barrell, a military TRW front end and Cub trials wheels, has anyone got any advice, pictures info that might be of assistance in the build up? I want to put together a sort of TR5 trials bike. here is what i have done so far

When using the Norton Roadholder lower fork legs how are you anchoring the brake plate. Are you using a brake plate with a lug that engages in the slot between the raised alloy bars on the fork leg or a bolted on metal strip, presumably to the two bolts that secure the mudguard stay. If using a brake plate with a raised lug to engage in the fork leg, which hub/brake plate is most suitable.

hopefully the answers will be an easy fix.. i have a steel tank that i want to use on my latest project. It has been in the garage for YEARS the fuel was all gummed up and the tank had some surface rust. On the inside it has surface rust i'e bathed and swilled it out with petroil several times and got tonnes of rust out i've flushed it out with a high pressure water jet and filled it with pebbles and shaken vigoursly and washed and flushed etc etc about 2 hours in all. its improving but theres still a away to go though the bits that have cleaned up are now bright and shiny.. anything else i can do or am i bought into repeating the above evry night for the winter?

Hi guys first post on here. After starting to ride my old trial bike again after a break of about 30 odd years i have a question.At the moment its geared with an 18 tooth engine,40 tooth clutch,17 tooth gearbox and 60 tooth rear sprocket. But due to me being rather crap and the bike seeming much to fast for my very limited skill level((but i don't know if this is in the mind or not(i managed to get round 2 sections on Sunday out of about the 30 i tried before i broke the bike)).I have a 17 tooth engine sprocket which i could use .But my question is is a drop of 1 tooth on the engine a massive drop in the ratio.

hi all, has anyone any ideas on replacing the standard villiers clutch on my pre65 scramble bike,[i know not trials] .i would like to replace it with a jap one,ie conbination of the two, that will still fit inside standard castings. any views greatly appreciated.

Hi all, I'm just finishing a project and wondered what cc it is, i can't remember the formula. my bore is 83.75 and stroke is 78.40 could someone jog my memory please. Best regards Si

There have been a lot of contributions of late about Cubs and the building and setting up thereof. Well for my sins i an in the final stages of building a B40 so what are the recommendations for a B40? You know the usual stuff? Carb size and type. High Comp or Low comp piston. Sports or road cam. Gearing. Michelin or IRC tyres. (While I'm at it I've been told that tubeless Michelins are slightly softer construction than tubed ones. Is this true?) My bike has a Faber frame and Betor front forks and has a Ex WD GB B40 Engine at present with points on sidecover but has had them removed and a PVL ignition fitted. I was thinking of fitting a Amal Mk 1 Concentric 26mm NB…

Can anyone help with sorting out my Cub front end geometry. The question is how much Trail do you need for a trials bike? Currently the standard frame with heavy weight Triumph forks (no trick stuff here) has @5" of trail. The bike does not like tight turns in sections, pushes on and wants to fall in to the turn - could be a bit of a rider problem as well! Looking at some websites on fork geometries it seems the less trail you have the easier it is to steer at slow speeds - sounds good. But how much is less? Any ideas on what is a good figure to aim for and how best to achieve it i.e. steepen the frame head tube, different yoke offset, raise the rear end (already done …