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  1. Started by b40rt,

    SWM's and earlier Aprilia's had the PHBH 26 FS carb that had a petrol screw, later Aprilia's have the PHBH26 FS which appears to have an air screw ? Are they any better, or just different ? The one I'm thinking of using has a small brass connection which I think was a vacum to remove any build up from the crank case, but didnt work and was usually blanked off. Can anyone confirm ? Thanks Ross

  2. Started by 2stroke4stroke,

    Does anyone know how to wire a cut out button on the TL 125? The wires to the coil end in a multipin connector with no obvious way of introducing a wire. Any advice appreciated as, apart from the stuck throttle scenario, I'm getting fed up stalling it every time I want to walk a section.

      • Like
    • 8 replies
    • 4.5k views
  3. Started by dozerash,

    I have been wanting a SWM trials bikes since I was in high school in the early 80s. I got to ride a 81 TL 320 for a day and really liked it. It handles as good as some of the modern trials bikes I have had! Has awesome power and torque! I felt very confident on the bike. It took me a long time but last year I finally found a 80 SWM TL320. It's in rough shape needs a complete rebuild, I probably paid way too much and it's still not finished. When it's finished it will be my main trials bike for vintage trials. I would like to find another TL for back up also an Enduro GS SWM for vintage cross country. Where do you find these bikes? I look on Craigslist, eBay all the…

  4. Started by qcowboy,

    Howdy gang! New guy here, off in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, in Wyoming, USA. I recently purchased a 1982 SWM TL320. It has been sitting for some time, and I've begun the process of bringing it back to life. Since people always like photos, here it is: Last night I drained the oil from the transmission, and removed the clutch cover while I was at it, to get a sense how dirty things might be inside. I found oil that clearly had a great deal of water mixed in. Since the bike was running, and I had ridden it a bit in the course of the purchase, the oil and water were mixed into a thick goo that resembled a chocolate milkshake. Good to see that gone! Things were…

    • 8 replies
    • 4.9k views
  5. Started by fourex,

    As above, the exact colour or colour code for the SWM frames still eludes me, I was told the Subaru WRX blue (code 02C) was a close match, and indeed it is close but still not close enough for me. I know I'm being pedantic here, but since I've started paint stripping my Jumbo which was obviously re-painted in the wrong shade of blue by a previous owner (refer attached pic), I have found traces of the original slightly metallic and darker blue underneath and it's not quite the same as Subaru WRX blue. Any advice appreciated. Also still chasing info on my previous post regarding seat/tank/shroud arrangement.

      • Like
    • 8 replies
    • 4.7k views
  6. Started by b40rt,

    Do you have to be over 6' to ride a SWM ? Photo also courtesy of Ducman

    • 7 replies
    • 3.2k views
  7. Started by b40rt,

    Start bidding quickly or you might miss it :- http://cgi.ebay.co.uk:80/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...ME:B:SS:GB:1123

  8. Started by martinm,

    Spotted this bike for sale on eBay here ..............with a very unusual front pipe set up, anyone know anything about this mod ??

    • 7 replies
    • 5k views
  9. My TL320 was running great one day, and the next, it wouldn't start. I suspected a bad condensor, since they tend to die suddenly. So I installed a new condensor, and new points as long I was already inside the flywheel. Sadly, still no spark. So I'm down to either a stator that produces no power, or a bad coil. Presumably, I should be able to kick the bike over with a meter attached to the blue wire that feeds the coil, and measure (pulsating) power there. right? If there is no power, then I have a bad stator (or a shorted/ broken wire) If I have power there, but still no spark, then my coil is bad, correct? Thanks for all the help, gang! I'm looking forward to some…

    • 7 replies
    • 6.6k views
  10. Started by markg,

    Hi all, I am replacing seals and bearings in my Jumbo engine and have a few questions: - does the gear box internals stay in the clutch side or front sprocket side of motor when split? - is heat needed on the main bearings to come away from the case? Thanks in advance,,

      • Like
    • 7 replies
    • 2.9k views
  11. Started by dozerash,

    Anyone have a good source for the 280 pistons? I’m going to rebuild my 1982 TL320 and will probably need a oversized piston. Heard you can use 583 Ski Doo or Sea Doo pistons. I definitely want a two ring piston.

  12. Started by basinbaker2,

    Finally started to pull apart my 81 PECO 200 SWM . Not many of these were made, Not even sure if any others have survived out there. It was a small company called "Performance Equip CO" here in the UK that modified the std 125 SWM trials , I believe 6 were made, but some of this is just folklore, would love to hear more snippets about the history of these if anyone really knows .. Any way I've owned it from Circa 1985, Although my memorys not as good as it was, and apologies in advance for the fuzzy photos. And Yes it was a black frame model when it was first made... As I'm going to restore it I thought I'd put up some pictures…

      • Thanks
      • Like
    • 7 replies
    • 5.7k views
  13. Started by brownie001,

    Hi, does anybody know what squish gap I should have on my Rotax 280 cc motor ? I have 1,8 mm at present but I'd like to know just exactly what the upper and lower limits are. Many thanks in advance,

      • Like
    • 7 replies
    • 5.4k views
  14. Started by b40rt,

    This engine came along with a recent purchase, is there any chance the stator could have survived ? Thanks Ross

    • 7 replies
    • 3.2k views
  15. Started by guy53,

    What is the difference between a Can Am Armstrong and a SWM, on a picture that I have they look the same. Guy

    • 7 replies
    • 4.8k views
  16. Started by turps,

    I have a really bad misfire on my 1980 TL320 and am looking for advice. My bike starts 1st or 2nd kick and ticks over great and runs at slow speed fine but as soon as I open the throttle it starts to backfire, I have changed points, condenser, coil, plug lead and plug to try and cure this fault. I have also cleaned out the carb and fitted an in-line fuel filter. There is a chance that when I reassembled the engine that I may have put the disc valve in slightly the wrong position but have yet to check this, I wonder if this would make much of a difference to the performance, as, if it is in the wrong place it will only be out by one or two splines. I will have a look at t…

    • 7 replies
    • 3.4k views
  17. Started by mudyman,

    Hi Guys (+ Gals ), can anyone say if the bikes of this age had mineral oil @ the day and if it is still to recommend. The problem with neu oil types are that they seem to make trouble with seals. especialy the SWM has problems with oil leaks and needs new seals for the kicker and gear shaft at regular intervals.

      • Thanks
    • 7 replies
    • 2.9k views
  18. Started by jgm,

    Just bought a 1981 jumbo bike runs fine for fist half hour the cuts out at low revs.It then will only start using the choke. It runs ok at high revs but cuts out at low revs. Anbody got any sugestions wether the problem is carb,coil or condensor. Any advice appreciated. Thanks JGM

  19. Started by iconic558,

    Pulling the trigger on a new rear tyre, my riding buddy tells me I should go for a IRC locally at £75 inclusive. Are they OK on SWM standard rims? Currently running a 4 year old Michelin, that's hard as nails, which has never sat right on the rim properly, one side is always higher than the other no matter how many times we fit the tyre so I look like (yes, I know and ride like!) Coco the Clown

      • Like
    • 7 replies
    • 2.5k views
  20. Started by john.b,

    Restoring a 240 Swm and the rear silencer box was full of the usual crud and also the the two baffles had come loose virtually blocking the way out for the exhaust gases. Is it best to reweld the baffles back in to their original positions or can you leave them out to let the engine breathe easier? Thanks.

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