Suzuki/Beamish

Hi everyone, happy new year! I have just taken the cylinder head off my 325 and it has a bit of side scoring to the piston, the bore looks ok. Would it be better to just put new rings on it or rebore it? If it had had a rebore previous would there be any markings on the piston? as there is nothing showing? Inside the piston it just says "S made in japan" and "ART" and what looks like a Y with a line over it (I thought this was a + at first) under that there is a number 1. The engine ran well with a bit of smoke before I took it apart. If it needs a rebore what pistons are avaiable. Thanks

hi all is the intake manifold for a beamish still available? i noticed a split in mine tonite. if they are no longer available, is there a way of fixing it thanks Ben

Hi all Tried to remove the shaft securing the swingarm to the frame today, no joy, seems stuck solid. I have recently purchased the bike which was restored some years ago but not used since then, the swingarm has been re-chromed so I'm supprised the retaining shaft did not come out easily ? Any thoughts and tips on removing the shaft will be most appreciated. Regards Phil.

This was posted on our local MOTA website. Located in a suburb of Detroit. Seems like a pretty neat little machine. A bit of a unicorn here in the states. http://detroit.ebayclassifieds.com/motorcycles-scooters/whitmore-lake/1971-very-rare-alta-suzuki-trials-bike-175cc/?ad=34610599 --Biff

Im Rebuilding a black engine Beamish Suzuki and i was trying to work out the best way to clean up the fork legs, has any one got any tips please on the best way to clean them so the look a bit better ?

Hope It's not a bother, but could someone post a photo of their chain oiler adjustment screw? I've put in about 4 hours trying to make one that will seal up when tightened down. Does it have a tapered seat, or like a carb air screw? I've flushed it out and installed a screw just to keep water and dirt out for now. I know there are suppose to be no such thing as a stupid question so if I become a distraction let me know. Thanks in advance.

Where can I purchase the correct brass air valve assembly for a beamish? On the bike I

Hi, I've asked Jim awaiting reply: Any other takes on ridding oneself of the air system? Springs, caps, anyone done it? Ta

Picked up a RL250 a bit back for a future project and wondering if it would benefit from a longer header pipe? It runs very smoothly but I like a rorty engine that jumps with a slight twist of the throttle,I know that's contrary to common Trials theory but I have a SWM to ride when I need traction in adverse conditions. I had a 240 Fantic and never felt like it was too Zappy and find that type of power fun. The Zook seems to be soft down low then comes on in the mid range. Haven't had time to check the timing or compression(Feels good to kick through) It looks like every other trials bike has a longer header pipe than the Suzuki's short U-turn.

Just tried fitting a set of beamish forks I have lying around on my BSA, but the fork tubes seem to be smaller than 35mm this is stopping me clamping them on the bsa. I’ve measured them and they are 34.87mm which seems to be closer to 1 3/8” did the beamish have odd sized forks?

can any one help me i need to know the centers of the yokes for a beamish i have a front end i wish to put on my new frame i have built i will make the yokes myself on the cnc machine in work so if any one could help i would be most greatful i need centers for forks and steem thanks

Hi All Going to be rebuilding the engine on my RL325 (1978) Will be needing the following Mains Big end Oil seals Gaskets Advice required as to the best places to get the parts TIA Roger

In earlier topics some mentioned relining brake shoes, that worked. Can enybody tell me what the new lining material was? Cheers Miked

Ebay Beamish bargain

Looking for an inlet manifold, silencer, and air filter, however was thinking of getting a diy kit to make one. Any help much appreciated. Oh yeah its an rl250 black engine 1980

Hi, got a silver engine 250, it's just been rebuilt, it wouldn't start, changed the plug and it ran fine, but now it will start but cut out then start straight away. Carbs been cleaned twice. Any ideas? Cheers

ive tryed sammy miller, he has stopped selling the fiber glass tanks due to a quality issue. any other suggestions? thanks Ben

Hi all, well I took the plunge and now own a 1974 RL250. So I have a few questions that the forum may be able to help with. First I have ridden and raced almost everything since 1967. I can wrench and I'm not afraid to fab up goddies when needed. So questions 1. I have an absolutely shot petcock so unless it's an only option I don't want to rebuild it. Pingle makes a good one, but not sure they make one that fits, so sources would be great. 2. The inside of the tank is lined (well sort of lined if you mean some really nasty crap peeling off everywhere) so what are my options. Tank? How to remove the old liner mess, or send off for repairs? I'm just getting into …

Anybody have any advise. The Beamish Club manual section says there is a mistake on Parts List 5, circlip 36 should go between 38 and 39. But part 36 looks like it is a spring clip that fits in a location in the shaft to stop 35 gear from moving side ways on the shaft. The gearbox that I have has part 38 between 35 and 36, anybody know which is right? Any advise welcome. Mike

Is any body going to the Beamish Trial this Good Friday ? The Worthing club are running this event at Faygate near Horsham ? Should be a good days trialing.More details on Worthing Club &Beamish club website.