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I'd do as above,easier to take a little off the shock bush rather than trying to force the frame mount apart
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Put an AJP calliper on it,the formula ones were unreliable
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7mm ring spanner fits the clutch bolts,not that you need to touch them.You can remove the clutch complete by removing the 4mm Allen head bolt which holds it onto the shaft
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The shock for the later model will fit
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Ohlins is the best,but not cheap.Whats wrong with the original one,or do you want something better?
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I agree,very helpful,great service and cheap
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250 2011 onwards would be the best for you.Better frame than the earlier ones,250 has as much power as you'll need and is less tiring to ride.Avoid 2012 with Formula brakes which can be awful,buy the best condition one you can find and afford
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Selector mechanism is easily accessible if you remove the clutch,debris gets in the selector pawls and springs and makes things lazy.Its easy to strip and clean them.The gear lever has a long travel when it's right,it's just the way they are.PM me if you want to know more
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As Previous replys,washer thickness is crucial,too thin and it binds the selector drum up..You could progressively loosen the bolt until it works properly and then see how thick the washer needs to be
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Same as aJotagas rad,bottle with a tube from the lid does it,I can't see a problem,particularly for a world round class mechanic
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The spring gets flattened with use,the clutch fingers act on it to disengage the clutch.Give Gas Gas uk a call ,they'll know
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The spring gets flattened with use,the clutch fingers act on it to disengage the clutch.Give Gas Gas uk a call ,they'll know
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I did mean Bellville spring,it's nothing to do with the pack thickness or finger height or plates.If you order one from wherever you get your bits from they'll know what you mean
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Not the first time I've heard of this with aftermarket bearing kits,not sure tolerances are always what they should be
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There are dimensions given somewhere for the spring,it could have become weak over time,You've checked everything else,ATF normally gives a good sharp bite,all the dimensions are correct,there's only the spring left,I'd fit a new one
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Certainly mean business don't they,hope they're successful and start getting customer bikes available
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I have a pair of the brown oiled Hebo,they're tight round the ankle and harder to get on and off compared to my Forma oiled ones.If I were buying a new pair ld choose the Forma they're more flexible and very slightly wider
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Don't think there is an aftermarket one .Quite a few people remove them,feel sure if you put a wanted ad on here you'd get one
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I've used him too,he's the best in my opinion
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My rmz450 won't start in gear when hot,think the minimal clutch drag is enough to stop it turning over fast enough
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Air screw effects low revs only,check the float height and that the jets are standard .Try raising the circlip on the needle to weaken it a bit ,if it improves you know you're going in the right direction.Check the colour of the plug,should be brown,black indicates too rich
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Gear oil smells awful when burnt,hopefully it's just running rich and needs the carb sorting
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Not a lot of money for what you've ended up with,it's now much better than most of that age .It should now be reliable and loads of fun,enjoy it
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Factory settings aren't really relevant,depends more on your weight and riding style .When I had a Gasgas I emailed Factory Kev at Gasgas UK with my weight and ability level and set it up as his reply.It was much improved,he knows his stuff
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Correct ,Jotagas is bust,Jgas isn't.Think the TRS is pretty much what the Jotagas would have become if Jordi had stayed .The geometry looks very much the same ,and they both look to share some same parts.Exhaust looks the same,head and barrel,forks,for example
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