huski

I see Ross Danby is riding a GasGas in the Vic Britain.Dont know if this is a one off or not

Boiling the jets in water for a couple of minutes cleans them up like new.Zap em with wd40 when cold

The only thing that would concern me is the EFI parts.Most consumables are used by other brands so no problem.I would want the leads and computer program so I could interrogate the ECU if anything went wrong but I'm not sure what's out there if you needed replacement bits .Too much of a gamble in my opinion.I know Mahle have taken over Kokusan but are they going to continue with the parts Ossa used?

I'd have IRC if I was confident it would stay on the rim,got a Goldentyre Gecko at the mo which is good in mud,sways a bit when dry

Remove the spring from the shock then move the wheel up and down so you can see what's happening.It doesn't appear to be touching much,maybe 0.5mm off the linkage and a small chamfer on the shock would do it

Removed mine,rode today with no problem,will leave it off .Used to drag with it fitted,seems to pull the pads into constant contact,the wheel turns much freer without it

Illustrates also Finnys incredible ability,not many from that era could get near that.Its still more rider than bike

I have a 2014 250 and I don't want anything else.Its very light ,has the best forks out there,it grips well,is very torquey and revs very high if needed.Ive ground a bit off the lock stops,it now has sufficient lock for me.Routine maintenance is easy,it all fits back together without forcing things inline,seems made to a standard not down to a price.When brand new it felt very tight ,took more running in than others I've had,every bearing had been fully greased and every bolt loctited,I stripped it to check it and needn't have done.Only trouble I've had is the bearing on the clutch release failing,and the gear change shaft breaking,which has been modified on the later ones.Spares are cheap and available from Haven trials .Id have another one,mine still feels tight and new now .They were too dear when mine was new,but are more competitively priced now,very underrated bike,try one

I have a 2014 250 and I don't want anything else.Its very light ,has the best forks out there,it grips well,is very torquey and revs very high if needed.Ive ground a bit off the lock stops,it now has sufficient lock for me.Routine maintenance is easy,it all fits back together without forcing things inline,seems made to a standard not down to a price.When brand new it felt very tight ,took more running in than others I've had,every bearing had been fully greased and every bolt loctited,I stripped it to check it and needn't have done.Only trouble I've had is the bearing on the clutch release failing,and the gear change shaft breaking,which has been modified on the later ones.Spares are cheap and available from Haven trials .Id have another one,mine still feels tight and new now .They were too dear when mine was new,but are more competitively priced now,very underrated bike,try one

I've had the same problem,think I'll try removing it too,as you say the pads can't come out

Fantic 200 or 240 were the best twin shocks and the end of the era.I borrowed a ty250 when my 240 was out of action and it was awful in comparison but had better brakes and was better made.Spend the extra cash

Why remove it?

How much more clearance is needed?I wouldn't want to weaken the linkage by much .The Elke shock is much fatter than the 14/16 one,maybe the factory got it wrong but had ordered a lot of the Elke and were committed to fitting them and hoping most buyers were light enough not to bottom it out .Maybe Sliks bike has had more metal removed,be good to compare photos of both linkages.Perhaps a secondhand Ohlins is the(expensive)answer,I think the Sherco one fits

Only thing that hasn't changed is that it's far more the rider than the bike.Bikes are far lighter,better brakes and suspension,more powerful and run better,to the point that they're far better than most of us can do justice to.Trials was in better shape back then with more venues and riders and I think generally were harder

Stators can be a problem,clutch can be hard to stop dragging,rear spring too soft if you're more than 12 stone,mudguards brittle.More steering lock than anything else,powerful,good build quality,best after sales support from importer.Just check for wear and tear and ride it somewhere to check it revs out,bad stators show up by misfiring initially.Theres a thread on the Beta forum on improving the clutch if it needs it

Think it would go that fast but not for long.Why is it important?You could gear it up but it would be worse in a trial and trials bikes get a bit sketchy at speed

My 04 Gasgas had a rubber sheet splash guard cable tied to the frame ,visible when the airbox was removed.A mate had an 03 which didn't have it and a different airbox which would have been a good aquarium,the dirty water ruined the motor.Id recommend getting the later airbox and splash guard.Richard Allens Trialspares would be a good place to start

As above,buy the best 2t 250 Gasgas,beta or sherco you can find,and take a mate with you when you view it. Two pairs of eyes see things one pair miss,and don't necessarily buy the first one you see

You're right,get the best 250 you can find.Practising in a car park would help with the basics,but it feels rather different off road when it's slippery and rougher.Join a local club and have a go,but don't expect too much too soon,it's a lot harder than it looks.It will improve your MX riding as a bonus too.Dont use your MX boots,buy some trials ones and a trials helmet,your MX riding kit will be fine.

Depends on the conditions,lot of water and deep mud or very dry and dusty every event.Normally every 4 trials but inspected every week I use NOTOIL which seems the best and stops pretty much everything going through the filter.Also depends on the bike,some brands are worse than others for dirt getting to the filter?Beta for example the filter is at the top of the airbox so anything seen in the airbox has got through the filter and enter the engine,whereas GasGas the filter is on the side of the airbox so dirt inside the box doesn't matter as much as long as the filter stops it .A lot of engine wear comes from poor filter maintenance,it's better to err on the side of over doing it

A dealer would recognise it for the heap it is and price it accordingly,better than some other unsuspecting clubman ending up with it thinking it was Ok .Not ideal I accept but what else would you do with it.Rebuilding trials bikes that have been treated this badly is throwing good money after bad.Dont know if the present owner got it at a price which reflected its condition or got stung.Hopefully it was cheap Maybe the dealers in your area are more generous on part x prices but I've been offered some insulting offers in the past for good condition bikes

God knows what this bikes been through,don't feel your grief will end with welding/replacing the frame..I'd get the frame welded and re sprayed so it's safe to ride and be prepared for a lot more such as:are the wheels round and true?suspension still damping and springs not sagged?all consumables will probably want replacing,shock linkage hopefully salvageable,what does the motor sound and run like.Id do what it needs to make it part exchangeable and accept it was a bad buy and move on

Easy to make one on a lathe.Any small engineering co.could make you one,which might be quicker than waiting for one to be sent to you

Buy the best condition 250 you can find,beta,sherco or gas gas are all good.Wouldnt necessarily go to a dealer,go for a private sale from a rider who knows what maintenance is who can give the right answers to technical questions.Take a knowledgeable mate with you and a wad of notes ..Dont expect perfection at that price but you should get something fine to learn on and sell it on for much the same price.Good luck,dont have to buy the first you see

High temp silicone will do it,sounds like a bodge but they don't always seal without