barfy

I think that it was the seal. It was a real bu33er to blow out the piston with the compressor. The seals looked clean and ok, so I put back in the piston. Now it seems to be working much more positively than just before it stopped working. See how it goes at the weekend.

I think it's more a trapped seal or badly put in piston rather than air. One piston is coming in and out no problem and the other isn't moving. Looking at it, I think it was braking against the caliper rather than the pad when it was working around the garden. I'll pull it apart again tomorrow or Wednesday.

Yes please. Probably about to go to Colin Leese at TY Off-road in the next couple of weeks. Talking to a few folk he seems to have a good reputation and seems most knowledgeable on the phone without too much BS.

I rebuilt the caliper last week. It seemed ok in the garage and around the garden but stopped working during a trial today. One of the pistons seems to have stopped moving. I'm going to rebuild it again during the week, but before I do does anyone have any tips? Cheers

Back to my RTL now!! I've just stripped down the head because it was getting quite noisy, especially when I compared it to another RTL. There is quite a bit of movement in the cam at the sprocket end, where it runs in the head. I remember reading somewhere about a mod putting in bearing or bushes on this end of the TLR / RTL cam, but I can find any posts anywhere. Anyone know more about it and where I can get it done? Cheers

Always wanted a 330 montesa back in the day.

No I didn't try changing the forks or shock length. I have fitted Rockshocks, but they are the same length as the old shocks.

Thanks both for the reply. It's going back together now, to be ridden rather than admired in the garage! Not sure how I'd measure the 25 deg angle. It took me several guesses at about 3 deg because I just had the frame sat on the bench. If I'd thought I'd be questioning the angle I should have taken more care measuring the original angle. Also I measured it from horizontal because that's how the bubble is on my spirit level.

I've just got my TLR frame back from having the steering head modified. Although not back together, I can't see any noticeable difference. So I measured it best I could and it might only have been pulled in by 3 deg. Is that about right?

It depends on how much money you want to spend. My order of preference would be: - rings - cam chain - valve seals & guides - can chain guides - valves & springs If you've got the engine out I'd probably do it all because going to the trouble of doing some of the bits "I might as well do them all".

JJ65 - Thank you for the images they are just what I needed to make sure that I do it right!! You mention a T MIles alloy base. Do you have any contact details? Cheers David

James (jimmyl) - I tried to send you a PM, but I got a response that you weren't able to receive any more messages. Obviously a popular person!! Thanks jrsunt - That is exactly the information that I needed. I was thinking about making one of these support.http://www.montesa4rt.nl/htm/spec_parts/electra_support.php

Got the tank off my Montesa while I have it flattened, so I was wondering about linking out the bank sensor. I found a post saying that it's easy to do, but can't find the related post where it's actually described how to do it. How do you link out the bank sensor? Are there any consequences? Like you can't lay the bike almost flat on the ground because I've taken off the stand (it never floods)?

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll give some of them a try between Christmas and the New Year and let you know if they are any better. Some reason I can't reply using the iPad app??

I've got an annoying squeak on my front brake. I've put in new pads and used several different types of grease behind the pad, but it made no difference. The brake works OK, just squeaks. I've searched to forum for suggestions, but surprisingly no one seems to had problems with front brake squeak. The next thing is to buy a front disk, but I don't want to do that if there is some simple remedy!! Any ideas why it might squeak?

I've never had a 349, but on a 200 and 242 there is a little pin that holds the selector on to the gear. This pin would wear flat (almost like it was designed to be flat) and give enough play when the bike is under stress to drop out of gear. It's most disconcerting when in third going up a hill climb. I got a hand full of the pins for something like £5 and replaced them every time I took the engine casing off when I was changing the oil.

I've used XR400 foot rests on my TLR and RTL. They are quite a bit wider than the standard ones and I got them from Off Road Only (https://www.catalyst-findit.co.uk/index.php?c=d2f5d910014f2842ada1bbc16c273aae&vat=ex&dest=prod&p=514&pid=60-200.DR). I'd probably give them a ring to make that they fit the XR400, because the ones in the picture look to have a slightly different mount.

I've sent you a PM.

The best site that I've seen for listing trials spares in Beta UK, but that's not much help. I have used CMS (http://www.cmsnl.com/) in Holland for Honda parts and if you put in the Montesa part number it will give you the stock and price. However, they do look a bit expensive. Normally, I'd phone John Lee or Pidcocks, because they are both quite reasonable. There is a new importer for the UK, but haven't got a clue who that is...

I've been talking to Andy at Ohlins about rebuilding my RTL shock. He mentioned about making a new shock, but it would mean having to make a custom part for the bottom mount. It wouldn't be cost effective to make a custom part in a quantity of less than five. I'm not going to get five made then sell them, but if there is a market for five then Andy might be encouraged to make the part. The cost would be in the region of £400 for a custom made shock. So if you are seriously interested in an Ohlins shock for the RTL then PM me.

I remember when Yamaha did a similar advert for the launch of the YZF. I love adverts that make you think, my favourite is the Guinness - Dolphin, but that shows my age and I can't stick the stuff. http://youtu.be/tx--v4qY8x0

I read this post with great interest. I've had various RTLs since 1986, and my latest one is a 1989 on (that I still ride) which I got towards the end of 1989. I was surprised in the development of the RTL from my first 1985 model to the 1989 model and it wasn't just the disc brakes, the clutch was less grabby, engine sharper and a lot less prone to stalling. I was desperate to get a TLM 260 when they became available, but was swayed by Screenart Beta which was meant to be for Mr Saunders. Great bike, but not the TLM that I wanted. Towards the end of the 1990s I was working in Japan and went to Narita's Trials Shop several times in Kawasaki (that used to make me smile that a HRC dealer was in Kawasaki). When I was in the shop Takumi said how great the RTL was compared to the TLM. I wasn't put off I still wanted a TLM, then probably about 10 years ago I managed to get a Pentax TLM 260; a dream come true?? Not quite, I was very disappointed in the bike. It didn't feel like it was breathing properly and had a very heavy flywheel. I had it re-bored (a Yamaha trail bike piston was a very near fit with a little over-boring), but that didn't make much difference. I was constantly playing with the carb and I even got all the bits to put on a bigger middle box, but I didn't want to change it too much from original. I couldn't source a flywheel to have some weight taken off and didn't want to do another one way conversion without the confidence it would work. The bike looked fantastic in Pentax colours, but wasn't (in my opinion) a patch on the RTL to ride. I ended up selling it so I could get my son a Gas Gas boy to start his riding career. He won't be riding the RTL, because I working out how I can take that with me when I'm gone.

Thanks Guys that is most helpful.Glueing into position would keep them in place, but I can see from your pictures that they seem to there is quite firm contact from the bottom of the engine. I;ve printed the photos for next time I change the oil.

Does anyone have a photo of exactly where the rubber cushions fit between the bashplate and bottom of the engine? I’ve tried to fit them like the best I can make out from the pictures in the manual, but whenever I put the bashplate on the small one seems to slip around. I normally pull it out so that I don’t lose it during a trial. Cheers

Not that happy using a strong Locktite on something that I will want to remove in the future. I once used it on disc bolts that kept coming lose. I rounded the holes in the allan bolts and ended taking the wheel to an old boy in the club who disassembled the wheel to remove the bolts from the hub. He said that you shouldn’t have to use Locktite if it’s tightened properly. He’s dead now so I wouldn’t know who to take the bike to to get the kick start removed if I use any stronger Locktite.