arnoux

Not Beta

Gas Gas for a long time have had 3 variants of their trials bike each year: The base model - which was called the Pro for many years, but is now the CONTACT. The RACING - which was a step up in fit out, and performance parts. and then their premium model - which was called the RAGA REPLICA, then the FACTORY, and now the GP. So nothing has changed there, just the "name" of their premium model. BUT Gas Gas has finally listened to all the importers and dealers about the release dates. It was crazy that the RAGA, or REPLICA models were built in May, June each year. if a customer, say for instance, bought a 2010 RAGA when it was released in JUNE 2010 by Jan 2011 (only 6 months later) it already had a old model year number on a bike that was barely six months old. A lot of importers have been pushing for years to change this. This release time of November is perfect for the premium model. It means bikes will be available early in the model year, and this confusion will not happen with almost new, but "seemingly" year old bikes out there. And the fact that their is not a lot of change on the GP model can be seen as more of a position of where GasGas had to go with the RACING this year. I feel this was two pronged: GasGas wanted to release a good bike after the Torrot rebirth. They got the CONTACT right as a good entry level bike, actually "down speccing" it from the previous Pro model, but making the price way better, and really very very capable as a base model trialsy. The RACING was really the flagship for the new company launch, so without the availability of Marzochhi front ends they sort of had to go with TECH front forks, and the 2 way Reiger was an obvious choice for a rear shock (carrying on from previous RACING models). The Keihin PWK carby was a perfect choice as the Dellorto was on the base model, and it was a proven performance advantage. I feel they got the RACING just right for the relaunch of the new GasGas, and it was a bike that everyone expected from the Girona company. It makes tried financial sense to release a "new" model variant mid way between the release of the 2016/17 RACING and the next model year release of the 2018. So OK now they still need to do the "premium" package - now to be called the "GP". So what can they do: Well like previous years put on a more up specced rear shock (I presume this will be the 3 way Reiger or similar). Same at the front end - I would suggest this will be the next step up TECH forks with the compression adjusters separate from the rebound adjusters. And in keeping with the Carbon / composite work Torrot are involved in they have a full carbon airbox on this bike. Then looking at the photos it seems like they have done a bunch of small stuff like the S3 HardRock Aluminium pegs, red silicone radiator hoses, red fork brace, Full FIM rear brake disc, Rental handlebars and grips, and probably a bunch of other small things you can't tell from the photo - and of course the white frame and different graphics. For year now the premium model has always had a different colour frame from the signature red of the regular models (PRO, CONTACT and RACING). I think that GasGas has listened to their importers and Dealers this year and finally got the release times just right, - it's taken years of whining, but I think the Torrot group are actually listening and taking on board the concerns of their team. That's my take on it anyway! (and I've been to a few of those Importer / Dealer meetings)! And finally as for dealers /importers being privvy to upcoming model changes, they just don't hand out that information any more, as most companies don't want some regional importer/dealer "spilling the beans" and telling everyone about the fab new special release on their Facebook site before the parent company get a chance to "hold court' at the new model release. The cards are played much closer to the chest now in this world of instant news and social media leaks. Lets see what shows up at the EICMA show in Milan this week.

That is really confusing Sectionone. In 2014 I had physically been to the factory in Spain (not the Gas Gas Factory) where the frames for GG TXT Trials models are made. Seen them all being welded up at the different welding stations etc etc. it is the same company that build the GG final exhausts and also made the Jotagas frames. They may make other stuff for Gasser, but the trials frames were definitely being made in Spain - saw it in person.

Smaller bearing is on the Reiger with the large reservoir part of the body at the top. The new Reigers with the large section at the bottom have the bigger spherical bearing, if that makes sense.

2017 Series sponsor perhaps?

It is much more prevalent on the new Gassers with the integrated XiU regulator/rectifier. Nothing to worry about.

That is correct, that gap is there stock.

Hi Joe The part number you want is BT27820010 Fuel Cap for 98 Gas Gas. if you Google that you will find a supplier.

Sheered flywheel key.

The 99 guards are definitely available. I know Jim has some,and we have them, so I am sure we are not the only two with stock. Check your local Gasser dealer / importer.

Jaycar http://www.jaycar.com.au/Parts%20and%20postage%20total%20$112.19/p/SK0995

Take the stator off. it will give you heaps more room to get at the key - and less chance of damaging the stator as well.

Agree with Peter B This is common on the odd bike with a magneto. (not common but i have seen it on varied bikes over time in our workshop). When you look at them closely it is almost like a SPOT WELD. Anecdotally I have found it is usually on the bikes where the tapered surfaces (crank to flywheel) are not a great match. The marks on the flywheel always correspond with the one on the crank - like there has been current flow across a small gap. Hence the look of a spot weld! Not sure if that is correct, but that is what it appears to look like without any other evidence.

If you have some detonation under load, then it is lean and you should be going richer. To make it richer Lift the needle not drop it. (or conversely drop the needle circlip). Some of those early small pressure relief valves were troublesome and could "jam". New ones are better. Your after part# BT701553013.

There is a tool for removing the clutch. GG part number T0118090 Or you can just go to the Bolt shop and get (from memory) a M18 bolt about 90mm long. If you look inside the clutch centre you will see the internal thread. Wind the bolt into this and it pops the whole shooting match off.

This happens on the JGas when the bike is left leaning to the left for a time. If the bike is upright or leaning right it doesn't happen. Breather hole must be pretty close to the top of the oil level or something like that. First noticed this when tying bikes in to the van in 2012. Learn't quickly to lean them the other way!

Running the front pipe that DOESN'T have the muffler box in it helps. Not sure how your are configured state side, but due to government noise restrictions ours have to come with the quieter exhaust, but dumping that and running the straight through header works well. Good little bike.

Sounds like you have no freeplay on the Master cylinder actuating pin. That then doesn't allow the clutch fluid to pass back into the Master Cylinder reservoir because the piston seal has now "passed" the bleed hole. So the system has positive pressure that cant be released and it is actuating the clutch slave without the lever being pulled. Also make sure when you have freeplay that there is also some room in the reservoir and it's not "FULL"., so there is somewhere for the fluid to pass back into! Also make sure all the diaphragm fingers are lying flat when you reassemble (easiest to lay the bike over on it's left side) so the clutch thrust bearing and washer don't get hooked up under a finger or two. Also make sure the kickstart quadrant gear friction spring is lined up properly (the "loop" should be at 1 o'clock position when looking directly perpendicular to bike). Also fit your clutch side cover WITHOUT the water pump sitting in the cover. Then when refitting water pump make sure the drive pin is indexed to the cutout in the crankshaft as it goes on.

Where are you retro? If we know your location it would be easier to advise.

No cutting/soldering needed. Trace your original kill wires back - one has an eye connector and is earthed to the frame. The other goes to the CDI. It has a male bullet connector and joins to a very short wire coming from the CDI (black and white). Your new Magnetic Lanyard Kill switch (if it is Leonelli, or Jitsie branded Leonelli) will have an eye connector - just swap with the one you take off, and probably a Female Bullet connector. Just grab a set of needle nose pliers or similar and "roll" the female bullet connector end a little bit, folding one flap inside the other. You want to basically turn this female end into a male end so it will fit in the existing connector on the GG CDI. it is a very very simple task. Insert your new "male" plug on the new kill switch into the female connector on the CDI, screw the button down onto the appropriate place on the handlebars and test. NOTE: Be careful when reinstalling your fuel tank, that your throttle cable routing is clean, and free of obstructions, and the throttle tube and cable return properly. Seen a few WHISKY throttles from people hooking up the throttle cable with the fuel petcock or similar.

Agree Braktec and AJP internals the same. Look elsewhere for your stiff clutch. Did anyone put DOT4 in your mineral clutch and swell the seals perhaps? Or plate fibres too thick.

The Gas Gas Part number is BT27922001 If you search the net by the part number you will find them for sale. One here: LINK, but there are others if you search that number. There is also repair kits still available. oni nou you may have tried to fit the bigger AJP repair kit, the HEBO pistons are slightly smaller but still available.

It should spin very freely.

I would say the smaller OD springs are for the 40mm Aluminium upper fork legged Marzochhi's, (found on later model Gas Gas and Scorpa SY's) because they have a reduced diameter in the section between the triple clamp uppers and lowers. Hence a narrow OD spring would be used. The larger OD springs would be from an earlier Marzochhi set with Steel uppers that were a consistant 40mm OD all the way up the tube. Looking on the Jitsie label it does not specify which set of Marzochhi forks they are for, so there is the mistake I would guess.

The bearing MT31000CT2811 is used both sides. This bearing has the seal only on one side (facing the crank) The bearing when installed on the left engine case (ignition side) must have the lubrication hole lined up with the corresponding lubrication channel. There is a small mark on the case for this purpose. This is because this left side bearing is lubricated by oil being fed into the space behind it, and then evacuated (with the help of centrifugal force of the spinning bearing) through this hole and dumped into the channel that falls directly down onto the magnetic sump plug. The right side crank bearing can be installed at any rotation as the hole is not required to evacuate lubricant. It is fed from the outside. Best way to install those bearings is to heat the crankcase half (we have a small oven in the workshop that is perfect for this ), and pop the bearing into the freezer for a bit. Makes installation a breeze.