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Yup, checked this with a MOtester friend, no speedo in the MOT but a legal requirement for the road, strange ?? No reason why a cycle speedo shouldn't be OK, the Beta Techno used to have a wired one. I used a Cateye Wireless on my Mont, trouble is the coil/CDI interfered with it

The Fantic rim is the answer it will match your front. You need to try the breakers in TMX and expect to pay

Don't forget that due to where the drive sprocket is located clearance on the chain will always be tight. If you mod the swinging arm, you should get the engine moved over as well, might also need the wheel pulled across a bit to. Ray is a really good guy to speak to.

There's a good number of differences. The major issue is with the bearings, up to engine no. 84268 the mains are a plain bush, the later engines have 6304 ball races, which are longer lasting. There's been lots of changes to the big end as well, started with rollers, then to a plain bush and then back to rollers, you can get a conversion as the big end is a very weak part on a Cub. I phoned around a few of the experts before buying anything and they all advised getting the latest engine I could find mainly due to the bearings and oil pump. I ended up with a 65 Mountain Cub motor that has been through a total rebuild, including PVL, Roller Big end, sprocket access, etc etc. I was speaking to someone before xmas who had a set of cases that had been modified for PVL and the sprocket access done, he was looking to sell them as he'd just got hold of a brand new set of cases. I see if he still has them and let you know. All is not lost though as many of the parts are interchangeable, if you were to find some later cases.

How about a bit of reverse engineering ? If the TL Carb works well on a Cub and a 22mm PHBL Dellorto also works well on a Cub then QED the 22mm Dellorto should also work well on a TL ?????!!!!!!!!!!!!

The Blue one or the Black one ? If its a black one let me know, I can contact the new owner of my '02. The only other black one I knew of was was Boyd's.

I think you'll find that's an 'original' TC member

Sadly as ever its not what you know (or how good you are) its who you know.

The answer is to never turn it off Seriously I never bother, my 'works' style flat tank has no tap, just a QD clip that stops the flow when you need to get the tank off. I am sure that there's some scientific reason why I'm totally wrong, but I don't think I have turned the tap off more than a couple of times in 5 years of 315s ( except to remove it). A similar tap is fitted to the KTM EXC I'm playing on at the moment, that was also a complete pain to turn on/off/reserve. A quick strip down, clean and grease has it working like new - or better than new. munch is correct - the taps are all the same, as are the tanks, apart from the colour of course.

Get a basic editing package on your PC like Pinnacle Studio, it is a very cut down version of their 'Pro-sumer' software. Has abilities to add music tracks, play with sound levels, titles, transitions, time line editor, encoder, cut DVDs etc. You need a Firewire card to download onto your PC and you might want to check disck space as you can end up with some pretty big files, DV = 25 Mb/s. IMHO the most important element is the bike sound for your video camera, you might want to get a gun mike - its a direction microphone that means that you get the sound on the video to match the image on the screen - not the bike behind you or the person talking beside you. My other advice is to only use the view finder and not the screen when shooting, the camera is held a lot steadier in that position, eleminating shake and your better positioned to frame the shot properly, when following the action.

So you're testing the 4RTs ability in the gloopy stuff in Bayford Woods then munch ? I'll be debuting my new 4T at Farnham Royal, only trouble is mines a 42 year old design - just like the rider

Its not a Photoshop job - the Dabster was standing by Mr Lampkin, whilst giving him a little advice of how he might have improved on his Sheffield Indoor win.

I rode it in 2001, on the Clubman route, and just out of plaster from a Broken wrist. It was testing but not stupid, even though the ground frost didn't thaw, and it was bloody cold for riders and observers. The Graded Hill was brilliant fun Expert route is set for Experts, I think Dougie lost 27ish, so definitly testing. But all the lads and lasses know what its going to be like and still fill the entry. If you don't like the rules or event then don't ride it, there's plenty of other events running with a 20 mile radius - same can't be said of the South Midlands - so pay your money and make your choice.

Its not the P (Protruding) that's important its the R (Resistor) that required by the Mont ignition. I can't comment on the protruding electrode. The BPR6EIX version is the plug to use, the Iridium centre electrode is very small and provides a high level of ignition and a low jump spark voltage. i.e. it is very bright and will spark in a lower voltage condition - kick over, low revs. I think it gives a better response from tick over as a result At

Anyone able to recommend an engine oil for a rebuilt trials Cub ? Silkolene Chatsworth 30 has been suggested by another Pre-65er. But its proving difficult to get hold of.

Try the NGK BPR6EIX, same heat as the recommended plug but with Iridium electrode.

Contact Adrian Lewis at http://www.lewisportusa.com They make a billet alloy one that doesn't bend and is shorter than the original - doesn't bend / lasts forever. If you're in the UK don't forget how strong the pound is at the moment. I had one on my 315 for two years, never had to worry about it

Had this confirmed today. You need to buy the HRC kit to be able to play with the ignition and fuel from a laptop. Similar situation to the CBR 600 RR when you are going road racing, fortunately as there's enough volume for the 600RR so there's a couple of guys who have 'cloned' the kit so that you don't have to pay the HRC rates. Can't see that happening in trials - get ready to raid your piggy banks again.

Raga will also be using Bridgestone rubber, its their first venture in to Motorcycle trials. They have a new 'soft solid' concept that means no more punctures. When asked about his new contract with them he responded: 'Isa likea this, to beata Doogie and Fuji, I needa the edge. Michaela hasa them ona hisa Ferrari anda I lika the white sidewalls" Bridgestone refused to comment on the new signing, however confirmed that they have been working on 'soft solid' prototypes for the past 18 months.

Your not getting confused with Nick Holt who used to ride a 'special' for a dealership up in St. Ives, Cambs. That was a bored and stroked TL motor in a chrome frame ? This was before the Seeley days, when that Jap lad Hattorri was riding an RSC in the South Midlands Centre. Seem to remember Nick Smith having one of the first Seeleys and getting awards on a regular basis, mind you he rode into the awards on a 350 CCM to. Its only 22-24 years ago

Excellent scoop - I heard some time ago that he was going to ride their new Trial model - the T-Ossa. Its amazing that they can come up with the 4-stroke fuel injected motor from scratch. If its good enough for Raga who knows ? Great to see that Gripper Yellow colour scheme again

Definitely got to be worth dropping the forks out, taking the mudguard stay out and trying to un wind it using the leverage of the forks themselves. Heat up both fork bottoms with water/heat gun/hair drier. As duckwizard says the alloys all expand at different rates, then go for it ! If the spindle breaks then at least you have two managable sized parts to take to you local machine shop.

This would be a major problem for a smaller business, no cash in the door means no cash to pay the suppliers. (Of course the big H would bail them out) When did Montesa sell the last '04 ? Beta on the other hand have been selling their 05s, and hopefully getting the cash back from the importers, then onto the suppliers - e.g Verlicchi who make the frames for Beta, Ducati and Montesa. Perhaps its a priority issue in the Verlicchi factory It's Tuesday and we need a conspiracy theory !

Have you spoken to Mr Whitton ? If anyones making them, its probably him.

You MUST have an 'R' plug. The way the ignition is designed it needs the additional resistance to run correctly. I mistakenly fitted a BP6ES a couple of years ago and spent a few weeks wondering why the bike was running pants - working back through what I had changed I eventually checked and changed the plug. Check for the response from Martin Belair on this subject. Having tried a few plugs on various 315s over the last few years its my humble opinion that THE plug to have is the: NGK BPR6EIX This has an Iridium electrode and gives the best performance (even better than the Bosch chaps). It's a couple of quid more but worth every penny - big fat spark no matter how slowly you kick the bike over. The Denso IW20 is the equivalent plug. There's also the NGK BPR6EVX which is the Platinum version (equivalent to the WR8DP), not quite as good in delivering an absolutely rock solid tickover and crisp throttle response. Try www.sparkplugs.co.uk, I know they ship to the EU, I'm sure if you twist their arm they can drop a couple of plugs out to the island. Order two, the EIX will last forever, but its always nice to have a spare. P.S. I have also just put an EIX plug in a KTM EXC 200 that was a pig to start, its transformed the bike. Starts first time every time even when its bounced 40 yrds down the track and been upside down - you could see the difference in the spark on kick over from the standard one.