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CK are you DJ's water boy for the day? I'll make sure we have some beers on ice for him in the beck at our section (that's if we have a beck, otherwise it might be a bit warm), we'll call the line for him and not send up any big steps or down any big holes - like DL's helpers tend to do

I'm looking here, nothing yet: http://www.rdmcc.co.uk/

It looks like a Suzuki RL 250 motor in a Fraser Honda Frame (TL125), could be wrong.

This isn't my work, but a very helpful diagram all the same.

I don't have my notes with me, as I wrote all the details of the advice I got down when I built my bike, but here goes. The wide ratio box is the best option (IMHO) as it gives a better spread for trials, i.e. low first and close second and still keep a fourth that makes roadwork possible. I hunted around for one for a long time and eventually got one from across the pond - I couldn't unearth a complete one in the UK. Serco used to do a lower second to add to this that makes first and second even closer - might still do it. Also using the 16T engine sprocket on the primary drive gears everything down, even if it means a half link on the primary chain. This make first and second very useable, even with the 199 cc motor and 15 stone on board. I can't remember what the final drive sprockets are but the rear is pretty small and doesn't snag on rocks etc. There are of course loads of: road based, CR and ECR boxes being used to good effect, so its not a disaster if you have one. If you haven't done the engine 16T that's a good start to slow everything down, easy to do and doesn't require an engine strip. Then you can see if its the spacing or the overall gearing that needs some work. Loads of different opinions out there, this isn't the gospel, just works for me.

Definitely a Triumph Tiger Cub, post '62 - side points engine. Might be based on the Mountain Cub or Street Scramber variants not many TR20s went to the USA (well that's what Mike Estall's books says). Looks nicely sorted - what you'd call Pre-65 Scottish spec.

I heard that this event runs in early November? Anymore details around. Thanks

I thought being fat was part of the qualification to ride as a Clubman

After a wander around Hook Woods on Sunday and watching the top lads demonstrate how it should be done. You watch them ride and see them do the impossible without a safety net, I noticed that the minders have totally different styles and no doubt abilities. So what does make a good minder? Is it: a) technical knowledge; guide and advise the rider and get him exactly where he needs to be etc etc. inspiration; maybe technical knowledge isn't so important, but lifting the pilot to greater things. c) safe pair of hands; allowing said rider to attempt the impossible and know that he's not going to clatter down in a heap. d) Dad; nuff said e) Been there, seen that, got the t-shirt; some one who can advise from a postion of authority having been at the top f) mechanic; just good with the spanners. g) all of the above h) none of the above I'm on the page the these lads need inspiration. Mr. Galway gets my vote for the sheer passion that he shows in getting the Mighty Atom through a section. What's your view?

I must be a bit thick, but I still can't figure out how to do this mod. Anyone any pictures ?

I can't believe that they've gone from: a jap carb that p****s out fuel to a jap carb that p****s out fuel Does Beta have some kind of interest in the oil business ? BP Exxon Total Anyother oil company

Well done Wiggy - must be the new custom paint job (including that famous Wigg green) on the lid that gave him the edge

I was the very proud owner of one of these fine machines, de-restricted model. Its missing the pedal shaft, these were next to useless, there was no way you could pedal it and as a kick start mechanism it was pants. The Garelli Tiger Cross had the beating of it in a straight line, but on a good day and indicated 50mph was possible - you had to be flat on the tank feet on the rear footrests. I blinged mine up by painting the guards silver - well I thought it looked pretty cool anyway, well it was in '79. Sold it for a

Which BP in MK for 102 then ?

Only problem I've found is wearing away the rear countersunk bolts making them difficult to extract, I'd get this with any bash plate, I now replace them after every oil filter change. Titanium countersunks are the answer young man !! Who said bling don't pay - they might be ten times the price but then they last !

So the final motor with a DMW barrel is a shorter stroke & bigger bore ? Or have I missed something?

Any views on the DMW head and cylinder? I here that these are still available from NVT.

He's still on the 125!

The Cub is spot on, but I quite fancy another project - but can't work out how to explain to the Mrs. how another bike got in the garage. I noticed a Parkinson Head and Barrel go for what I thought was silly money on ebay last week. As so many Villiers based bikes seem to be fitted with the square set up I was surprised that it went for so much, as I thought that there must be loads about. I take it that they're aren't and that nobody is remanufacturing them like the Serco alloy cylinder for the Cub. So is the Mick Andrews bike in Trialsworld fitted with the Greeves square barrel then?

Dumb questions of the day coming up: What's the benefit of the square head/barrel combination on Villiers motors, I come up with weight and better cooling, but is there anything else ? Seems every Villiers bike tested in magazines has a different head/barrel combination so there's many different types: Parkinson, Alpha etc. So what works best for trials motors and why ? I remember that the 210 Karting lads used the round combo, not sure if they were alloy replicas. If anyone needed better cooling I thought it would be them. But looking at the various James bikes tested in: Trialsworld, Classic Dirtbike and YOU HAVE USED WORDS OR A PHRASE WHICH ARE NOT PERMITTED ON THIS WEBSITE. PLEASE DELETE YOUR POST/TOPIC. DO NOT TRY TO CIRCUMVENT THE FILTERS IN PLACE ON THIS WEBSITE recently it seems that its a must have, so which variant is fitted to the bikes in those mags ?

Front is fine but it's heavier (and stronger) than the standard Morad. But I don't think that they make a tubeless rear, you might want to check that out unless you are happy running a tube.

This might help http://www.cubsite.com/cubforum/viewthread.php?tid=212

Silver Anodising is this years black Might be nice if the fat lass could slim down to a size zero (not politically correct I know - hope this doesn't offend).

There's a 'mild' map on the disk that a lot of folks favour, that's softer at the bottom but doesn't touch the mid/top that's left as standard. This seemed to work pretty well down here in the ****e and equally on rocky stuff. Its a pretty steady 'clubman' map, and means that starting doesn't become an issue - as it can with some more extreme set ups. The software is pretty easy to use, to download maps, but I didn't spend a lot of time trying out changes. If you are really keen to get it the way you describe you might be best to PM munch, as he's tried a lot of things out, and knows what does and doesn't work. The 4RT and I parted company after I struggled round the 3-Day with you boys, thought it was the bike so I bought a Gasser - now its clear its the rider.

Been riding up there on and off (more off than on) for at least 25 years, and I don't remember riding one dry event. I normally get there on autopilot, but looking at the map - http://www.streetmap.co.uk/newmap.srf?x=49...p=newsearch.srf I think its the 1st or 2nd right after the pub heading towards Buckland Common. Normally good events, always a good opportunity to decoke your motor up there when its wet Maybe not the place to go if you aren't feeling 100%