vonhazza

I would be concerned about milky oil in the clutch as it may be a faulty waterpump seal and possibly the water is causing your clutch issues, I did the clutch mod to my EVO last year as it was sticking when cold but on one occasion it did as yours did and stuck when hot with the clutch pulled in, I stalled the bike and restarted and it worked fine for the rest of the day, After the clutch mod not only is it no longer sticking but the gear change is much lighter and easier. Steve,

I have an 09 250 evo and I do have a flywheel weight fitted and find I ride most things in 2nd gear, I find 2nd suits most sections especially if they are loose and have steps in them, I only revert to 1st gear for the really tight stuff. I also rode my mates 2013 300 Factory yesterday and found 1st gear to be much softer on it and found I was riding it in 1st in spots were I would ride my 250 in 2nd. I have noticed that the EVO seems lower geared than some of the other 250 bikes I have tried certainly lower than Shercos whose 1st gear seems on a par with my 2nd, I assume that Scotland is wet and slippery most of the time so my advice is to try the next gear up, hope this is of some help to you, Steve,

Hi Mags, I think it is important that when you have issues you speak up to the Course Marshal of Club setting the Sections, I am sure they would rather have some constructive criticism than lose new riders, but I am sure many riders will simply fade away if they are not coping which is a loss to the sport and there is no reason why we should not have sections suitable for all levels of experience. Be involved in a Club and get along to the training days and section setting days, More experienced riders may not see your step as a big issue so there needs to be a good mix of rider abilities involved in the section setting process, sections should be a challenge to clean but not dangerous and lines need to be set to suit the grade they are meant for especially for the Novice and Clubman riders. Steve.

I have a zip up soft sunglass case zipp tied behind my number plate, its big enough for a small screw driver and some allen keys plus I keep my lanyard in there when transporting the bike.

Go to http://www.beta-uk.com/index.php/downloads you should be able to download the one you want.

Depends on which tank you have, 348's all had fibreglass tanks and the early 349's had plastic painted tanks, some pictures would help, they had different mufflers and engine cases the 349 tank also have a fuel level tube built into a slot in the tank on the RHS. I did repaint my old 349 tank, sanded then spray putty before the final coats http://s36.photobucket.com/user/vonhazza/media/Mobile%20Uploads/T2eC16JHJHIE9nysd6lWBRhGqgkcGQ60_12_zpsf95bd807.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1 http://rs36.pbsrc.com/albums/e41/vonhazza/Mobile%20Uploads/Trialsoflife027_zpsaf60c645.jpg~320x480?t=1420172690

I personally like the view you have now with the chest mount, you can see where you are going and what is coming up and IMO is a better view than number plate or Helmet mounts.

I rode a couple of Ossa's back in the 80's with de compressors that seemed to there as a substitute for brakes and they worked quite well giving a strong 4t effect ie engine braking when going downhill, the best thing would be to find a gentle downhill slope and test it out for yourself, just let her roll down slowly and apply the de compressor to slow you up, it may take a few goes to get the feel of it and use your normal brakes if its not working for you,

If you were a complete novice I would advise you to go for the 250, but with your enduro background you should already have good throttle control so go for the bike in the best condition and try them out first to see what feels best to you. The 250 should be easier to kick over and a bit smoother on the throttle, the 300 will have more pulling power for big climbs and steps but may be more tiring to ride. Either should work well for what you plan to use them for so ride them both and buy what feels best to you.

I did my clutch last month and at 1st found the clutch rather grabby but after a few hours it bedded in nicely, could be it needs a bit of use to take any rough edges off the fibre plates that may have been left by the fileing.

I have a 7'x4' box trailer and have carried 3 bikes many times with no issues, I would advise you to put 2 old tyres between the bikes to prevent any chance of rubbing, when carrying 3 bikes I carry the middle bike facing the rear and have bolted 5 eyelets around the trailer for secure mounting points, 1 in the middle front of the trailer and 2 more on each side, the forward facing bikes have the front wheels diagonally into the corners. Steve,

Check out http://www.honda-trials.com/_sgg/m1m2_1.htm & http://www.onlytrial.com/1/honda_models_by_name_253750.html Steve,

I still have my original 09 fenders, the front is a bit scuffed up but no breakages so far the back is held to gether with zip ties but still works, I have a new one but no sense using it while the old one is still doing the job, we have a few Beta's of various years down this way but I haven't noticed any problems with broken plastics. The Gasser fender looks good hope you have better luck this time. Steve,

From the EVO 09 manual http://www.lewisportusa.com/manuals/beta/Trials%20owners%20manuals/2009Evo2T.pdf Check pages 56 & 57

I can relate to your pain had a big off Saturday in similar circumstances, not a mark on the bike but I have bruised ribs and a few scuffed up bits, stopped at the bottom of the hill by using my head so will have look at replacing my Helmet. Not a good idea to practise alone, know one ever chooses to fall off but things will happen when you are trying to improve your skills and is all part of the leaning curve. Steve,

The photo #14 of John Lampkin seems to have Martin Lampkins name written on the fuel tank any idea why?

With the position of the switch I think you would be ok to just pull the thermostat without draining the system, but have a rag or something handy to block the hole in case you do start to lose coolant and if you are sure its the switch that is faulty have the new one ready to put back in that way you will only loose a dribble of coolant at most. Of course if you are due for a coolant change it would be a good time to do it. Steve,

I had a 349 back in the early 80's, apart from very tight turns they are a very good handling bike with a long wheel base, check the top tube for cracks as the silver engine struts would work loose and cause cracking due to frame flex, during the 2 years I had mine it suffered no cracks but the struts did require regular attention but several other friends with the same machine did have problems so it worth being aware of the issue. That said I would love to have one again if one came my way, they were about the best looking bikes available at the time I bought mine new (IMO) plus Ulf Karlson had won the World Champs and Vesty the SSDT.

You should look at Nylon or polyester shirts or jerseys, offroad motorcycle Jerseys (long sleeve) or shops that sell sports ware (short sleeve) should have what you need, you will still sweat but the material will allow the sweat to evaporate (wicking material), where as natural fibers are better at keeping you warm but absorb sweat as you know.

Best to find and contact your local Club and get along to an event, there should be plenty of people happy to share advice and help get you started. Steve,

It's a 349 Monty so I would guess 1980?

Hi there, Beta Evo Factory and the year should get you there, the standard model is not called Factory but they do have some parts on them that may be branded Factory on them, eg, Flywheel cover & Foot pegs ect.

Could it be the bike with the #1 plate at http://www.ossaplanet.com/

Should be 41 for a 250 2T

I had a problem with my 09 Beta rear spring but have since replaced with a Heavy Duty one, I am about 125kg and it works well for me, the front forks I have only played with the spring tention and dampning ajustment and that feels fine as well. Cheers Steve,