faussy

Has there or is there anything currently regarding an EVO class in trials? Comparing to MX, EVO is anything pre 90ish, and superEVO pre 97ish. EVO i guess would be covered by what we call air cooled mono, but once bikes went water cooled theres nothing really to separate out another class. With 90% of people competing in modern trials on a sub 10 year old bike thats 20 something years of bikes kind of without a class, every bit as large as TS and larger than ACM and pre65. Will there ever be a requirement for another "classic" grade, or does trials just not require as many grades as MX? When/if that time comes, what do you think will be the cutoff, since theres been no big characteristic change in bike design since 90. 2010? or pre GG pro maybe?

Ive never seen reproduction guards for these bikes. Would be interested myself in some. For some reason the stress marks really show in the type of plastic they used

Another option is the karcher oc3. Absolutely no experience of any portable jet washer, but just thought id let you be aware of it if you werent already

Not many 4t shercos around, even less 2005 4ts! The frame changed in 2006 to accommodate the 4t engine so tank wise i don't think so. The 2006 onwards tank has a tongue at the top that slides underneath a lug, whereas the 2005 has a hole for a bolt above the cap. 2 stroke wise 2001->2005 all had the same tank, but i would bet money they wouldn't fit. Looking at your second pic, the 2 stroke tank clearly hangs beneath the frame, your head and carb are right up against the frame, the carb is even between the frame rails Heres a couple of good quality pics of your bike from factory, maybe you can judge the head height from here http://www.triallinks.com/sherco2005.html

Super unleaded if you can get it. higher octane and lower ethanol content. Motul 710, thats what birkett used to recommend. 60:1. Dont be tempted to run leaner, and if youre going to be giving it a hard time even 50:1. You have to remember the age of the bike and they run fine back in the day on 60:!, any less oil is certainly no advantage on a 15 year old bike Personally i still use and used to use motul transoil for my sy250. Not a fan of ATF, especially in a bike that had a clutch that never dragged. Any light gear oil is fine. The water pump hose on the right side is very vulnerable, can be easily caught on a rock or split if the bike falls over onto a sharp rock, and its day over (happened once to myself). Birkett used to do a water pump housing that had the right angle in aluminium then the hose. He also did carbon fibre guards. Both probably impossible to get now, so you may have to fabricate something yourself, or maybe even keep a spare bit of radiator hose handy if youre going to compete or travel far distances. Theres so little slack on that hose that you cant cut the hose and strecth the good bit back over the housing

Do you mean post torrot takeover? IMHO they are better. Less variable clutchs out of the crate, and less frame breakages amongst other things

The rev3 didnt have a linkage which was part of its downfall. The jotagas does, althought i dont know if its as good as conventional linkages

Personally i dont like the colours of the fajardo. Looks more like a vertigo replica like a fajardo replica, plus i hate black. But ive never let the colours put me off a particular bike ive wanted in the past.

Maybe its time you fitted one of those wireless pressure monitor caps like in cars or road bikes.

What do you mean? Would you increase the pressure before doing a long section of road work? For safe road riding id want at least 10 psi front and back. or starting out at 4 psi would your tyre pressure increase over time while riding on the road? Yes, because of heat, dont ask me by how much though, maybe 1 or 2 psi

AFAIK the 29 means it originally had a 290 in it

I wouldnt let the bearing issue sway too much. It was a very limited batch as far as i remember (i had a 2014 and only heard about the bearing issue years later) if the bike has lasted 6 years it will either have had ok bearings at the time or the originals replaced. Even so its not a total deal breaker.

Make sure you know your intended shock length and expected sag at the rear before modifying the front. Swingarm angle can have a significant effect

This is it here https://trsmotorcyclesuk.com/trs-motorcycles-presents-its-new-e-bike-for-the-season-2020-2021/

Depends how competitive you are. I can notice a slight hardening of the rubber to the touch after a year. I can notice a slight performance drop in a couple of years old tyre, but i typically practice on tyres 5 or so years old and they are more than adequate. I have tyres on my older bikes over 10 years old that do the job of thrashing about, but if i was going to compete on them id put on a fresher tyre

It would be interesting to see the age demographic of this site. Loosely speaking id say the younger trials rider is more into the competing side, and the older into restorations and casual riding (there are exceptions). And as said above, most younger people are on social media. That being said, i don't even come across much chat or discussions on facebook (bar the ssdt) regarding what you are say!

Your bike should have a dellorto with a relatively fine mesh built in on the inlet. Keihins don't have anything, so it is always recommended to fit an inline filter for them. I have fitted filters for both carbs and never noticed any starvation issues. Most tank tap built in filters are rather coarse. It depends how throughother you are while filling your tank especially at trials when theres mud around your filler cap.

All bikes will do that when cold, they run leaner, even when you take the choke off the bike is still warming up for the next minute or so. As pindie says, if this disappears when warm, its nothing to worry about, if theres still a slight hint, then its indicating you are too lean.

The embarrassment of turning up at my local hospital in riding gear and explaining i was out riding my bike when i should have been at home is more than enough for me not to even think of riding. PS my local hospital has actually closed its A&E to better accommodate covid victims

Says on your packaging, 2000. Have a feeling 2000 had different forks because one side was compression, the other damping. If you look at https://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-new-type-fork-tube-l-r.html they list the r099 fork tube from 2001 onwards, so 2000 must have different fork tubes, which is possibly what you have received. Although if you look at these https://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-99-fork-tube-left.html https://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-99-fork-tube-right.html which are for the 99/2000 forks they have different part numbers, r080, r081. Still none the wiser. Maybe you have got a 2000 tube incorrectly labelled as being r099.... And since that label doesn't seem to be an OEM label its a high possibility In case you cant source a cheap correct tube, some good fork rechromers will straighten bent fork legs as part of their rechroming service. Check splatshop for the bushings, they might have some new old stock. Are these correct? https://www.splatshop.co.uk/splat-paioli-fork-bushs.html

I know that, ive done it myself. I wanted to know what the OP was going to use. Some people can still source NOS Michelin Tube tyres. Only tyre ive ever had come off the rim was a michelin tubeless front

You mean tubeless michelins?

Rather normal. Don't over do it, or might end up with a melted end cap

Imagine having a rare bike with a rare ignition system and then PaulC posting all that info. What a God lol

Your low speed balance is pretty good, which is probably the hardest thing to master when starting out. PS think you're slightly understating your "Had a play with a few trials bikes in the mid 00's", you seem to have at least some idea ?