faussy

Why didnt he ride his 300, the bike he rides every other day of the year, and try to win it? Pot hunting much?

Start with the cheapest and easiest, throttle and sprocket. If they arent enough then retard the ignition timing or flywheel and low compression head.

If you solely want a larger tank, why not try a contact tank (looks nicer IMO)

Good chance then the bike shipped with no grease in the linkages

I wouldnt worry too much about the squeaking rear brake, lots of bikes do it. As long as its not generating drag. How fresh are the pads?

Check out california connection, thats how most of my uk mates get bikes delivered from america

Agree with all the above, well used filters can get a bit slack where the cage pushes against the airbox and it can be possible for a gap to form. While you can usually get away with riding a couple of times on one oiled filter during the winter when the mud is clumpier, when its dusty i always make sure to have a clean filter on each outing

To me that looks like new piston time

Just a guess, kickstart shaft?

A clean sy250 would be a great bike, probably the most reliable of bikes that age, but as said above best to go for as clean a bike as you can irrespective of make. Personally i would go for a 250, an oldish 125 will have even less power than when it left the factory

Seen this happy to a couple of guys boots in my club, so it is a weakness. I've had mine a few months and really really happy with them. Sidi do a slightly different designed boot, still trials, but with a steel toe cap. I suppose this would help a lot. It looks like the upper is only stitched to the black sole and then the grey piece is glued on. Could a good boot repairer not run a couple of stitches through it for you?

Could it be really bad detonation? Most bikes knock when cold and then this disappears when warmed You are in the uk and 7 hrs from a gasgas dealer? is that possible?

properly rev the thing

Anytime i try to ride a bike bare handed it feels like my hands are gonna come off the bars. I just dont have the grip, though i do have sweaty palms

Only run a trials tyre in the direction of the arrow, it wont work in reverse

Too low a tyre pressure causes the knobblies to close over and you lose grip

If your bike runs too rich its because you have too much oil in your fuel

lol. The pedal configuration in cars is the same, irrespective of LHD or RHD

As was agreed in a previous post, trials is already extremely safe. Im starting to worry some official sees this post and starts to think trials is dangerous, and before you know it a whole raft of safety measures has been added! As a previous poster said, common sense when marking a section is vital. A section can be very hard but also safe, yet a very easy section can also be dangerous.

I agree with the above comment, however solid discs and sprockets were well overdue IMO. I still think more could be done to minimise fingers in chains, especially after the amount of people losing fingers and thumbs in motorcross. The only other safety equipment ive seen creeping in lately is the full face helmet. I've never had a facial injury (touch wood) but know of people who have and still ride with an open face. I think full face helmets would detract a lot from trials, but so do most safety rules when they are first brought in. Should we be wearing mouth guards like boxers and rugby players? I also see a lot of older riders riding in competitions with no gloves, and even some new kids. I may be starting to come across as a mini hitler here, but surely wearing even the basics of safety equipment is a must, and something ive never seen enforced. My point is, if you cant enforce people to wear gloves at club level, surely you cant enforce much more

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As with most rim tapes, having them hold high pressure is the easy bit lol

I struggle to get new rim tapes to seal nevermind repaired ones!

I get the difference now. Been riding trials for 20 years and never heard of a zap or a jap zap. Guess it must be an american phrase

In the double blip the front wheel is what first contacts the rock, in the zap/splat the rear wheel is what first contacts the rock because the bike is usually launched at the rock at a steeper angle. The double blip is mainly used for obstacles up to 4/6 feet, and usually the splat is whats used to clear a taller obstacle, but it usually depends on the shape and undercut of the rock. As a novice, i dont see you needing to use the zap/splat technique for a good while yet No, you dont need to always cover the front brake, or the rear, sometimes its just not possible EDIT: Having since checked out what ryan young is calling a zap, in his terms a double blip and zap are identical. WTF is a jap zap? Confused.com. Call them what you want, but you can either touch the front, or hit the rock first with your rear.