jrsunt

I have the Geco in black. It’s very nice. In the past I have found the longer guards make servicing the linkage very awkward instead of very easy

As jonnyc says, could be as simple as the idle been too low.They won’t start or even attempt too if too low. I think it’s anti-clockwise to increase (someone will correct me if it’s clockwise)

Make sure the throttle cable isn’t snagged anywhere and properly seated. Fuel pump wire under the tank connected? The little grey pipe that connects to the injector hasn’t come off? Can you get hold of another throttle body to try on your bike?

I can’t remember how much the fan ran, but getting them to run right when they were working hard was a problem. Cutting the fan shroud definitely helped though

When we ran the SY in the early 2000’s they did run very hot. We used to open up the side of the fan shroud (expose more of the fan blades) to help get more heat away from the radiator

Does anyone have a spare 4rt silencer kicking around in the back of the garage? I’ve folded mine in half tonight and could really do with one for the British Championship round on Sunday!! Thanks

They’ll all get further than the EM’s entered 🤣 I loved my TYZ, it was a great bike. Nothing handles like a TYZ in a stream. You’ll have loads of fun on that 👍

Riding it hard across the moors, for example in the Scott or the SSDT, you can empty the tank in about 45 minutes. General pottering around at a club trial will last all day

Where were you draining the oil from? Both drain bolts are on the gear lever side and shouldn’t need the sump guard taking off. Even with a horribly bent sump guard there is usually room to manoeuvre to get the generator cover off for the oil filter. But yes they can be very spring loaded if they are bent and twisted and can require clamping before removing the bolts

Genuine Honda for me all the way. They will last for years.

Although I haven’t had the slave cylinder off a 315 for many years. I think that should be normal. There isn’t anything stopping the gearbox oil entering the push rod hole. It will help it all operate smoothly. If it works correctly, isn’t any sign of leakage and doesn’t use any oil then I would think it’s job done.

The original Honda spacers and bushes are far better than the allballs cak. The spherical shock bearing has got to be the Honda one, it’s not cheap, but there is no comparison. (Don’t even consider the allballs one, there will be play) Top quality HK1512 roller bearings can be bought from local bearing traders at a decent price.

Leave it all closed apart from the reservoir cap. Those pesky bubbles should work their way to the highest point. When you come to have a go at it again, keep the system closed and use lots of tiny movements on the brake pedal to tease the bubbles out. (The vibrations should encourage them) You might lose pressure again but you’ll know that they’re on the move

Leave the rear end up in the air over night if possible. It’s just air trapped in the system some where. Don’t be tempted to push the caliper pistons back in though or the good work will be undone

That’s good news then 👍👍 The rest will come

Stupid question, but have you enough free play on the pedal-m/cylinder if the brake pedal is still on? Also, the reservoir cap and rubber can seal too well not allowing fluid to be sucked through. They can be infuriating, keep at it.

Used to do this on 315’s as well as 4rt’s. Put the rear wheel on your workbench or as high in the air as possible. Usually bleeds up straight away

I don’t know what level you ride at, but the limit of what the EM is capable of is far lower than the current or previous generations of petrol bikes. A good example was when Michael Brown (ex British Champ, world no 10, Scottish winner, Scott winner) to mention a few, enterered a British Championship on one. If Michael had entered on his regular Gas Gas he would have been challenging for the win in the championship class, but due to the limitations of the EM he entered the masters class or trial 2 or whatever it’s called and finished nowhere by his standards. (Probably would have beaten me on a petrol though). Until they drastically change I’ll stand by my words that they’re a step backwards.

The TRS linkage has similarities to the to the Montesa 315’s and 4rt’s. I think they use the same bearing size and bush set up. Both are nice to work on. The Beta’s and Gassers can be a little fiddly but ultimately they all do the same job

If you're used to Trials bikes the gear lever is in the normal position, if you're coming from a road bike then the lever is a little further away. This is due to the fact that it's based on a Trials engine. If the lever was closer to the pegs on a Trials bike you'd end up knocking the lever with the front of your boots (shin plate) when on steep inclines or in technical situations when you need to redistribute your weight. S3 do a kit which brings the lever closer to the pegs. It's a very capeable bike and good fun. The low seat height and light weight make it very useful. The only downside may be the fuel range (about 90 miles) and not having electric start if that's what you're used to. Flat out it'll do 120km/h, that's in stock form with the restrictors still in. I did a video on one a couple of years back on the you tube thingy. Most trail riders would benefit from riding one of these instead of a generic 450 Enduro bike, much more user friendly and they are much easier to handle if you get in trouble out on the trails

The CMNSL website is pretty good and reliable, I've used them a couple of times for various Honda parts. €308 for the Showa part is a pretty good price ?

If it's not too late, make sure there's free play at the pedal before you strip it down. I'm pretty sure you can kink or nip the pipe running from the reservoir to the m/cylinder if it's not been put back together correctly. Make sure the rear wheel bearings are ok too as they can pull the wheel out of line if they are shot

Unfortunately the 4r crank is a one off. I would suspect any wear there to give a "rumble" rather than a knock. How does the small end of the rod measure up in relation to the piston pin and piston? Check both ends of the pin where the piston sits and centre of the pin

My 2012 had done 4 ssdt's, 6 Scotts and was thrashed within an inch of it's life everywhere it went. I was going to put a piston and get the barrel done when I sold it, but when I stripped it down everything was perfect and measured to spec, so it went back together with new gaskets and rings only. I would guess that most of your internals will be ok, the only damage usually occurs from water. My 18 was drowned in the 2019 scott about 2 mins from the start. The bike knocked its tits off for the rest of the day. Upon stripping it down, the woodruff key had folded itself in half and stretched both ends of the con rod resulting in a knock that was noticeable throughout the rev range. If you split the crank, just make sure you measure and mark everything up. I made some plates up to help pressing everything back together so it couldn't be over pressed. The con rod is only available as a complete crank assembly, but the rod is a crf250 rod which are available everywhere. Just follow the manual and it's pretty straight forward, I don't think there is anything untoward. It's a little fiddly getting the cam chain and cam back on in the correct place but other wise ok.

Bent selector shaft. Drain water and gear oil, clutch side off, clutch out, fit new shaft re assemble.