turbofurball

Bultaco backwards is Ocatlub. Say's it all really, doesn't it. More seriously, the earlier left kicker ones didn't appear to be worth more than half of what a later one was when I was looking, regardless of condition (though compared to Monts they all look a bit pricey). I'd love one as I have a bad right knee, but ended up with a White Wonder instead, by accident. You could always put it up for what you'd like to get, and see if you get any nibbles, then adjust your expectations as needed.

Thanks, that's also handy info (I'll be honest, I hadn't really thought about checking the Haynes for this ... as it stands I've decided to keep the stock airbox for the moment, so hopefully it'll run ok with minimal tweaking to allow for the exhaust and I'll worry about the carb later. I might even go crazy and try a flat slide carb!

That seems pretty extreme, I got a DVLA registered Japanese bike registry to confirm the year of manufacture on my TY (they literally cited a website for that) and had zero problems - I gave the chap who runs it £70 and he sorted NOVA and gave me all the paperwork along with a guide as to what else they would want to receive, and got my V5 through the post about a week later

That would be why the ones we replaced were almost solid with rust, then. Replaced with self-lubricating ones which might last longer, but were a PITA to fit as they have tighter tolerance for the press fit (and new o-rings, with plenty of grease on them to try and keep the crap out).

Yes, my other half replaced the bearings in her Sachs, the top hats are pressed into the bearing so you have to use a lot of force to remove them. After trying different things I had the most success with putting the shock in a vice and using two big screwdrivers, one each side, to lever it out. Maybe there's a special tool I don't know about though, lol

Apart from an intermittent air leak (I suspect the outlet rubber as it looks very sorry for itself, new one goes on tonight), and the stuck float, it seems to run nicely. There's a severe lack of engine braking, but I'm guessing that's nothing to do with the carb!

Thanks I'll have a look, all the kits on ebay appear to be in the US or China though so I'm going to drop OKO UK an email to see if I can get one without a wait or excessive postage charge I don't want to pull the float bowl without having a fresh gasket on hand, as I don't know the history of the carb and could end up with a worse problem!

Thanks, that's a lot of useful info (though they recommend I go to a smaller carb!)

Hmm, as far as I can tell the only difference between that and mine, mechanically, is that mine has a different front brake (smaller diameter, full width of the wheel)

So, the Cota has a 28mm OKO carb on it (the original carb came in a bix of bits, and has a big chunk missing out of it), and I have a couple of questions ... Where can I find a rebuild kit for it? What's a good starting position for the idle screw? Where sould I route the tube that comes out of the float bowl? I seems to get pretty full of fuel for some reason, so I'm guessing the float is stuck (?) I'd really appreciate help with this so I'm not chasing my tail unnecessarily

I have that with my Forma Boulders, the 'Adventure' version of the same boot has a rubber pad in the right place, I guess a cobbler could stitch something on there that would be replaceable

That would be like the Electric Motion adult bike's "125 / 250 / 300" power modes, then. Makes sense from an electronics point of view, sometimes you might want more power at low revs and less at high ones and there's no way for the bike to read your mind!

Thanks guys! I've got a "White Wonder" from '82, no idea if it's a Mk4 or not but having both of those will be super helpful as I know there's a lot of common parts either way

Here go! Main body: 365mm Centre section: 165mm Height: 100mm

I'm gonna go measure it now before I forget again!!

Has anyone got a copy of this that they could send me? The download link on Todotrial doesn't appear to work any more

Cool, in the past I've done a lot of skate boot repairs and sometimes bonded stuff would be great but then break up because it wasn't designed for the kind of forces that were being asked of it ... hopefully this works better though!

How are they holding up after more use?

Given the way they like to have the back box re-packed every year already, if not more often, I figure it would make that worse. Both my and my other half's Gasgas' shed about a kilo when we sorted the exhausts. A little academic now, as I sold my GG today

Oh crap, sorry I completely forgot about this! Will check it first thing on Monday (it's at work, under my workbench)

Are you sure it says 2%? The manual for both my '04 125 TXT Pro and my other half's '02 250 Pampera says 1.5% (67:1), and I usually do 60:1 just to be on the safe side - both run at quite high revs though. 50:1 is what goes in the twin shocks, I'd expect a 'modern' bike to get oiled up by that kind of ratio

Nice ally box! (got one just like it but covered in Hello Kitty stickers and dents )

But also good quality. I have to admit that not having to do premix, and ride at altitude without any changes, would be nice

I have a single box one that's not currently on the bike, could measure it tomorrow if nobody else chips in in the mean time

I'm putting a new plug cap on, and the HT lead is looking a bit scabby (and has a suppressor) on what looks like an original coil - can I swap just the lead? Or do I just fit a new generic coil?