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The slide goes back in the carb with the cut away toward the filter. Did you remove the cable from the slide? It has to go back together just right or the needle will not stay in place. The pilot jet is a very small brass screw inside the carb body with a flat head screw driver slot. Remove and run a fine wire to clean out. Good luck!
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Personally, the front end does need fixed. I would leave the rear alone until you think it has a problem. A shorter turning bike can be much better to ride than what is considered `best`.
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Go to a site to translate.
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Not too many pieces off a Yz ever fit a Ty. Then again stranger things have happened.
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Well, you went from jetting to engine removal. You could fill in the blanks. I usually drain the oil remove the skid plate. Remove flywheel and stator. If you are doing an engine rebuild, I would remove the clutch basket and the primary gear off the crank. Then I would pull the cylinder and then the motor. Just my two cents.
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Changing the front to a 12 will still leave plenty of power in 1st gear. You should not have to change the chain and is quite cheaper and easier than the rear,
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Great splat, Time to add another tire!
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I would start with a 12t CS sprocket.
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The aluminum one broke. If you have to buy new get the steel one.
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Weight way back, toes on the pegs ankles dropped. He has to learn patience with the throttle. The black tube throttle may help, but it sounds more like it`s in his head. Tire pressure? Higher gear won`t help if he is not good on the clutch.
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You are basically doing a fast roll up. If you get some lift, you would be on your way to what I call mini-splatters. Which is a great technique to get up a ledge without getting stuck on the pan. Since you have the cam, concentrate on more lift. Good job. The zap requires a dedicated full front suspension load into an object. The splatter is key to doing all the crazy ups!!
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Try two steps bigger on the pilot jet.
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A very tidey Ty175 with mono wheels and front suspension.
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After talking about the 300 pipe last week and now this `new` problem, I`ve got the pipe to bypass this and go with a new FMF Spark Arrester I just happened to have lying around. I still plan on fixing the stock pipe, so I can go back if I need too. Optical illusion on the rafter fire by the way.
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Well my middle box broke during the event last sunday. Figured might as well burn it out before welding her back up!
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GAS Gas does not show the reeds # for the Replica (Raga). But it does show the intake manifold is different.
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Yeah, but we can fit your whole van inside ours! Unfortunately we have little choice on diesel vans except the Sprinter and they are crap for maintenance costs.
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If I remember correctly, the rear caliper mount was made for the front caliper. Very simple design using the same front and rear. The `Hebo` caliper was Gas Gas own brand, never liked them from the start.
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Splatter!
A Jap Zap or the new politically version zap is a well placed front wheel into a ledge or log. Which causes a full compression of the suspension along with precise timing of the clutch and body movement that gets a great amount of rear wheel lift to over come the obstacle. When done correctly it looks like the bike just magically elevates to the top of the ledge.
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You say it was corroded, you scratched it up with a paper clip but never said if you actually got it apart. You needed to get it apart without ruining it for the kit to work. Try this link. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/37048-trials-bike-breakers/?hl=%2Btrials+%2Bbreakers
Did you try trials parts usa which is the American gas gas importer?
By the way almost any 4 pot front AJP should work.
http://www.ajpamerica.com/calipers.html
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Blip on the rader is correct for most things. A caravan is great for a one person plan. The full size vans are far more rewarding for a good trip. (Especially if women are involved.) Alarms do not do *****. Lock the bike or bikes in securely. (Not just a cheap padlock.) The chair pedestals offer a secure mounting point(or make one) and have a way to disable the ignition system too. You start taking three people and bikes out for a day or two and you will appreciate a full size van. Good luck.
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Can`t feel too sorry,as you never responded to this post. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/48705-how-do-i-fit-this-photo-attached/ Bleeding brakes can be damned hard. Do tell why the caliper is bad. And we are just trying to help. I would help on the parts, but the posts always tend to disappear.
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So have you tried all the UK dealers? Just because the importer is out of something, does not mean a dealer does not have one. Trials parts USA might have them. You could always buck up for an AJP.
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A hose removal tool is the easiest way to install the air boot rubber. Unlike Dan I always installed the boot before installing the carb to the inlet manifold and never removed the clamps. I only used this method if at an event. When at home I did it the long way. Removing the rear fender and brackets gives you the opportunity to check on everything else that could be needing attention.
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Oh you can get it in if you need to. But if you are working on the bike at home, it is well worth taking it all apart. Nothing will p*** you off more than ruining rubber made products.
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