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You want a real 2010, try this http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/mcy/2945598001.html that`s my two cents on the econo`s. I would not buy one if you are a upper class rider. But if you just have to say you have a 2012 they are not that bad........................
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If you are jumping on the starter,then it is probably the half moon gear and idler gear. I would remove the clutch cover and clutch to inspect. Starting a pro with bad form will break the kickstart pawl. You want to feel it engage and give it a short fast kick. Once you see how it is made you will understand why. If you continue without `fixing` your problems and style, it is possible to break the case.
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When an engine is that flooded, every kick will wet the plug. No spark with a wet plug. Might just leave the plug out a day or two. Give it a kick every so often. Use the kill button if kicking with the plug out. Don`t want the boys having a laugh at your expense, burning the bike before you even ride it!!
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That`s just the way Sherco made it`s power. I thought the same when I had one.
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Just wondering if it was from running no stop rules. We forget how easy a 5 can be with all our messing with the clutch nowadays. Since we started stop and hop with always on the clutch the bikes just do not have the same tractor pulling grunt they used too.
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You have caused your own problem. You just need a new gasket. The tolerance is so tight that you have to have the thickness of the gasket.
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So did you replace the gasket?
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So are you saying it is like a pogo stick? Which is what low oil would do,but you say it gets hard. The earlier sherco suspension always seemed a little `dead` to me.
previous discussion;
http://www.trialscen...-rebuild-in-us/
Also rear suspension usually is the lightest oil you can find and 150 seems to be what I remember for pressure, but it`s been awhile since I messed with one.
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Looks like `somebody` got a bye on saturday. Have fun, we are having a two day also!
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http://www.thetwinshockshop.co.uk/parts.php
This or just weld a nut in place.
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Watch the piston on the clutch master cylinder. Is it slow coming out? That or the slave side is sticking. Are you using the correct fluid. Mineral oil or dot 4?This also can happen with too much oil in the engine.
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A fantic coach would be the one of choice. An aprilia climber could be found for cheap and the rotax motor gives you the best mpg of any two stroke. And if you really wanted vintage than a SWM jumbo.
try this http://amarillo.craigslist.org/mcy/2872450863.html
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Don`t bust a bubble. It is in the shift shaft somewhere. Should not have anything to do with the transmission. Worst case would be a tab on the center case broke off. Need to remove the left case and the clutch it self to get to the linkage. Hopefully it is the shaft only.
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Yes , it is like 6000 miles to make all the events. I have thought of it as the retired nationals for years. Unless you are retired there is no way to make them all for fun.
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You could cut it off drill it out and order an after market cable for an xr 200. But there is nothing wrong with supporting Bob.
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Only one unless you have a bad day!
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When cleaning the carb did you remove the pilot jet and make sure pilot circuit was clear?
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Cars should be built for eight people. And it should be illegal to drive if not 50% occupied. The alternative is motorcycles in every garage. Help save the planet from the 4 wheel idiots!
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Tried to reply earlier but it did not go through. I wrote a book before so this will be short. Until you have fixed the over heating I would bypass the thermostat and make sure the fan is spinning. The over flow tank should only be filled to the lowest level(.Almost empty) For a properly running bike. Will push out otherwise.
I would remove the top end and check for damage. I would also remove left side cover and check for corrosion. Radiator sounds questionable.
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Are you sure the clutch just was bad? The old bikes were slow and the brakes poor , but it still had a fairly high top speed for a trials bike. We also ran a low or no idle which was acomplished by the heavy flywheel and no stop rules kept us moving!
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You actually need to just replace one or two steel plates with thinner ones. This brings the cutch pack in to the correct hieght. Any Gas Gas dealer should fix you right up.
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That is like `I can text but don`t browse` or `I have a bike but can`t ride!`
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93-2001 same basic motor. 1997 last red engine. 1999-2001 most desirable. 2002-2004 crap better with each year. 2005 - present still crap better each year. 2002- present pro models all ride well when running. Current issues are still kickstart, shift shaft assembly, and transmission realiability.
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The middle box probably had years of unburned oil in it. When pushed harder than it ever has it started burning within. And yes modern trials machines are not made to run this hard. Jetting for trail riding is totally different than for trials. I`d go up several sizes on the main jet and at least a 38-40 on the pilot. Nothing wrong with 40-50:1 with good oil if you are climbing steep trails. Remember your radiator only pushes out, does not have an over flow or recovery type system. You also have to watch your brakes. In trials we tend to keep them `tight` for instant response. Have seen many a brake over heat and a few actually catch fire on a long ride in the mountains.Never been a fan of race gas in an engine ment to go slow.
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What carb do you have? Also a bike can be almost ruined in a few months time, so the condition really is nothing to do with the year.
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