lineaway

60 psi will just give you a 60 psi tire. Takes almost 100psi which is dangerous. I always set my tire outside on a hose that I have a manual valve and wait for two pops plenty far from me with the door closed. It is worth it to fix the rim band. The only tire I have had luck with a tube and no rim lock is the dunlap. Michelin is the only tire you need a beader on, the rest should pop in place unless stored flat before hand.

Is it the color of milk or coffee and how long since the last oil change?

He had to push it in. Lay it down and pull it back out. If you have the stock muffler you should have plenty of room. Also check the middle muffler mounts to see if they are the proper parts.

Yes on a sherco you can get away with the shorties.(sherco has the lightest clutch pull) Second your lever mounts are too close to your grips. They are also to low to provide any control. If you have any top riders around check out thier handlebars. If you ride in competition you cannot cut the levers shorter. Once you see someone stabbed with a lever you will get it.

In your original post you said 75/90. Gear oils are usually just 70, 75 or 80. Brands are quite different though. I have had or have ridden most years of Beta`s in competition. From `89 to the present they all stick when cold. But all were consistant after being warm. If you took the time to change `when` the clutch works I would bet it is in the slave. I have done the `fix` on several bikes and it is well worth it as it is free. I do not believe it is an air problem, just leakin` enough to slow or stop full movement. Good luck as it is quite annoying. Have you had the slave apart and inspected for wear? They do make a rebuild for that also ,but that is why I suggested the up grade.

Beta clutches have always stuck when cold. The 80 wt people talked about is light gear oil. You used hypoid gear oil designed for axles. Yes do the clean the glue from the plates. You already have the large M/C. It sounds like you have other hydraulic issues. Rebuild or replace the master cylinder. The next step would be the slave cylinder. I would replace it with the race model from Beta. A clutch like this is a dangerous way to ride. I have usually used atf or Maxima light gear oil.

I would reroute your stator wiring to the front frame rail. From the picture it is still, under the motor.Just make a new outlet in the case

Thanks for all your hard work John. My son and I had a great time. Best trials I have ridden in years! The sections were perfect.

Hmm why would you start a thread that the sole problem is yourself? You lost it. The rebuild kit is the same kit for 90% of the bikes that year. Has nothing to do with just one manufacturer. Hope the kit fixes it, otherwise you will have wasted more.

Hate to say the shims vary bike to bike. Just did mains on my cota 200 no fun. There is specific measurements to come up with the correct shim pack. Best to find a true montesa man.

So, Cope is the bearing lubed some other way like the gasser?

Wow, my first thought is a bike rack on the back. Second thought would just remove the bars. Just a couple of eye bolts and something removeable to brace/block the wheel since nothing is solid in any rv.

Remove the clutch and check the top hat at the end of the shift shaft. If that is all you are quite lucky!

Dad of 2 has got it correctly diagnosed. After just seeing the same thing happen to a 2010. You need to have the tranmission inspected now before you actually start beaking gears and need a total replacement. Yes it will just destroy it self if you choose to ignore it. Out of curiosty is this the Econo model?

Just curious how many pro motors have you repaired since 2002? Do you remember the crap shift drums and all the plate changing on clutches the first few years? When was the last time you replaced a complete tranny on one? HMMM? It`s been about 90 days for me on a 2010. You just seem new or lucky.

The clutch always has a lip of build up on it. The drain plug will usually have a small amount on it. If you ever have anything bigger on the magnet then you could be in for trouble. Sounds normal for a pro motor.

They are as bad as you think. The 300 is the worst. Mainly the kickstart. We have six 2004 300 in the club. Three of them have never had a problem. The other three have all had the clutch cover break. Shift shafts replaced numerous times and of course the kickstart gears. Even seen problems with newer bikes, but they have slowly gotten better. On the plus side they ride very well, make great power and are light and inspire confidence to the rider.Reliable? No.

That was almost funny, I knew I used to were one. I have not wore one since my desert racing days. I rode trials before my go fast days so I never considered wearing one. I would try both ways. Actually I need a girdle or it would now take at least two belts! Any how to correctly ride trials takes alot of body input. (the new bikes make it so easy most new riders never learn proper body english) If you watch a rider with a proper stance they seem to over exagerate every movement. But also notice they rarely need to dab. Trials takes alot of range of motion that cannot be done with all the gear our go fast friends use!

The beta guy from north yorks is correct. But understanding how hard the cable types are to pull the best thing is quality levers and perches first. Secondly 99.9 % of all clutch arm extentions were with bolt on items that could be removed and or modified for the user. Changing the stock arm might not be the best option as all ty parts have become crazy money. Unfortunately I can not find a picture of this mod. John? Are you riding vintage, modern or just having fun? Great bike! Last month I rode a `like new` example for two days chasing my son. Still smilin` Ps part is unavailable . arm is now obselete in the usa.

You need to buy a rod kit , top bearing ,piston clips,main seals, center case gasket, base gasket, and clutch gasket from a gas gas source. The main bearings should be available at a better price. You did not mention year, but should be the same for all models. Not a cheaper way around it at this point unless your dealer can also do the rod rebuild. You could replace all seals, and other parts also but is just preventive for future use.

You can `save` the pads by burning off the oil.

did you say you sprayed wd on the brakes?

If it is a constant tick related to engine speed perhaps the primary gear on the clutch has picked up some debris. What happens is a piece off the half moon kickstarter gear travels to the idler gear then becomes inbedded into the primary teeth. It is an annoying sound once you realize it is there. It can be very hard to find, sometimes a magnify glass is needed and go tooth to tooth. I have seen this three times before, twice on the pro motor.

Thanks for that,Martin! Nice shot of Whaley on the Honda.

Without looking it up ,I want to say it could be center cases. I fixed one with jb weld (epoxy) and last I knew it was still working after ten years!