| |
-
Most of us have more sense to drive 2500+ miles for a one day event. Now if it was in Donner, Everyone would have been smilin`. Just ask the riders. Party in Reno all weekend in dry heat or ride in 80% humidity and no night life?
-
Since nobody else responded, here goes. I`m 90% sure 36-48-10.5 which are available aftermarket, but the stock seals worked the best. They come apart with the clip above the seal removed or in this case below.
-
Replace it with a steel one!
-
I met his bike before I ever saw him ride. Knew he had to be crazy. I believe it was the `74 Ute cup. I started to walk up to a section. Here was this Bul that had every part on the bike drilled to save weight! Looked to me at the time that it might not finish the trial. But just maybe he had more sense than the rest of us riding those overweight old bikes.
-
Take a look at SIDI`s. A little firmer all the way around.
-
The other things you failed to mention is elevation and jetting. Unfortunately it sounds like you seized the piston. Quick check with the header pipe off! Our modern bikes do not make good trail bikes. My bet is your riding at elevation which is very hard on the motor. Between 02-03 gasgas slightly enlarged the oil capacity.
-
The first one I took 8 oz off. Which made quite an improvement. Next bike I removed the whole weight, which requires a lot of clutch work and is too much. I`d stay at 8 to 10 oz or about even with the holes pre-drilled in the outside weight.
-
Remove all the clutch cover bolts and the three water pump bolts, just pay attention to the size, because of three different lengths. The water pump is a sealed unit by itself.
Your correct that the KS gears don`t align very well. What you need to watch is the play in the KS itself. Also the KS shaft just rides in the casing and not on a bearing. With the amount of force needed to kick the 300 the case can fracture around the KS shaft.
-
You just need to do it again with 5wt oil. Make sure that both springs are good. (AS not broke or cracked) Gas GAS springs are weak and need replacing more often than people think. Your problem mainly could be correct oil level after reading your past posts.
-
-
Copemech, isn`t Lake Mackenzie this weekend? And you could be right weak spark at low rpm`s.
-
The exhaust would be some type of blockage so switch pipes. Have you had the top end off? Could just be the rings stuck in the grooves from oil build up.
-
Just remember no two bikes are alike, even when brand new. With this post you ruled out the carb? Remember the engine is just an air pump. Compression, Exhaust, or air leaks.
-
Try new pads before anything else. They probably have some fork oil or other soaked in the pad. The front should work reasonably well. The rear brake was never very good, but would lock up the wheel.
-
Several riders in our club use them. Saves broken levers and protects the hands. Makes the bars quite wide in tight sections. Always hated the thought of my wrists stuck during an endo.
-
Bagger, are you scoring,riding or just bringing the beer for the mexicans. I hear It`s gonna be warm and TEAM NM will be a tad thirsty.
-
Try a better ground on your kill switch. like the yamaha style two wire kill switch and ground to the same location as the other grounds.
-
We run an 11-48 which is overkill. At 6000 ft elavation it will pull my 200lbs up most hills. At sea level just the 11 might work or 11-44. This is our second ty and last sunday tried just the 11t and on steep hills it still needed lower gearing.
-
Maybe try the vent on the fuel cap?!?
-
The only reason anyone had a spark arrestor was it was mandontory to please the usfs. It is possible for a 2 stroke to start a fire, but not from the exhaust. The parking of your transport vehicle in tall grass has a higher risk of fire than a bike!
-
Alright here is a shot in the dark. You are now missing the disk guard, which was held on by the two caliper mounting bolts. What could be happening is the top bolt is tight ,but now the length of the shoulder is too long. So when pressure is applied to the m/c the leak appears. Solution is the correct length bolt or just add a few washers to see if it works.
-
Try WWW.trialspartsusa.com this is Jim Snells website. He had made a DVD available to gasgas owners in the usa. The video covers a complete rebuild of the pro motor which is a must have for anyone attempting to properly adjust the
shift cam of the pro. Good luck! P.S. yes you do have to remove the clutch.
-
The picture you are looking at is to limit the travel. the tang above the needle is the one to limit the flow/and or level.
-
Should start 1st or 2nd kick. try a good carb clean. Adjustments should be close to all sections. I`ll try to lacate one of my manuals. Good luck!
-
We usually run 650cc on this side or the pond!
|
|
